How to service: Fast Ace Inverted Forks Part 1

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Mini Me Racing 38

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Tools you will need:

6mm Allen wrench
5mm Allen wrench
(2) 17mm open end wrenches
15/16 low socket
Plastic bucket
Ratio Rite cup that has ml and cc's
Fork syphen or suringe

20wt synthetic fork oil I use Torco products
You can also use 80wt Belray Gear Oil with anti shear additive this has the same consistancy as 20wt fork oil and has anti shear added.

*** I also use a Battery powered impack Gun....Cause I can!

Here we Go:

(1) Start off by removing only one of your fork legs at a time This because some may get confused and I like to allow for proper Fork height allignment when Reinstalling.




(2) with Fork Leg Removed and in a Vertical position:


IMG_0428.jpg



(3) Remove the top cap with a 15/16 standard short socket Carefully "while its still verticle. with this done and the top cap off slowly pull the cap up till about 6 inches of the spring is visable and let gravity drain into a plastic bucket. I like to pour camping fuel in mine(white gas) and flush them out a couple of times gets all the containments out that might cling inside. Then I let them hang for a While otherwise you don't know how much residual oil is left inside:

IMG_0417.jpg


(4) after a few minutes take a clean rag and wipe the (2) Nuts off below the cap and draw a mark on both nuts across from each other. This is to ensure that you get the correct height adjustment back to the Metering Rod (Dampening Rod) back to the correct position to where you started with.

(5) Now take the (2) 17mm wrenches and unscrew the top cap from the spring assemblely (counting the number of turns you made past the marks on the nuts) and slowly separate the assembly (making sure not to bend or damage the Dampning rod):

IMG_0419.jpg


(6) Completely remove the rod and set it aside and (again do not drop or bend the rod) and let the rest of the Fork assembly gravity drain into the plastic bucket for 5 min or so. Now take the fork leg while over the Bucket and slowly Pump the fork tube in and out and you will notice(where the dampning rod goes in) the oil will drain out of it....and also the lower fork tube Do this many many time till no more oil comes out. ( dont worry about the spring assembly falling out as its attached to the lower leg with a allen bolt):

IMG_0420.jpg



Ok guys got to continue this How To on Part 2. Posts only allow 4 pictures.... Hope this is clear for you and helpful
 
Last edited:
This is for Staggs forks, are they Fastace the same internally?
 
Yes...these are off my Pitster pro X2R


But the Forks on the X2R are Staggs Works 1 forks which I am sure are different to the Fastace forks, although I know Staggs was selling Fastace shocks with Staggs on them.

But then it makes me wonder why the Staggs Works 1 Forks are $529USD and Fastace only $400 AUD, why such a big price difference if its the same product? So you think they are exactly the same internally ?
 
But the Forks on the X2R are Staggs Works 1 forks which I am sure are different to the Fastace forks, although I know Staggs was selling Fastace shocks with Staggs on them.

But then it makes me wonder why the Staggs Works 1 Forks are $529USD and Fastace only $400 AUD, why such a big price difference if its the same product? So you think they are exactly the same internally ?

Not being smart with this answer so bare with me.....;) Check it dude anyone with a little bit of money can can go through china industry and put a sticker on a product over there and import it and say its theres. There could be a slight difference in Valving...thats about it bro..Trust me

inside I bet is real close if not exact just canged the dampning rod or valving.

same basic fork as the Fast Ace....price difference is the ( Name ) thats what you pay for.
 
on another Note I know that Jeremiah was working on a even better upgrade to put into the forks to make them even better..( Hence the Valving) Im sure. If you have the Forks (Stagg) that come on the Pitster X2 and X2R models.."Same" fork. If you service and change the "Fish Oil" that comes in the forks from the factory to a Premium Fork oil they will work 100% better I guarantee it!!!

The Grade and quality oil and levels put in from the factory are less than Satisfactory in my Book are.....Crap-O-La Period!
 
the fastace forks and staggs works 1 forks are totally different forks. the staggs forks are a fully hydraulic based fork as the fast ace fork they are a air/oil carteridge fork.
 
I did not Physicly measure the Air Gap...Our teams pro rider Ran 240cc per Fork tube and rode the bike and described what sounded to me as Hydro Lock

The 150cc of 20wt fork oil per tube Comes Directly from SGR Racings Recomendations. I am 190lbs and the forks work great for me.

what do you weight? and what type of rider are you Novice, amature or expert?

we can get a real close Ballpark on the oil level and if you have to add 5cc or subtract 5cc it is no big deal
 

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