jazle
Well-Known Member
Just a quick question! are all lifan engines gearing 01234 or are there some that are 10234. any help would be good thanks Jarred
Lifan engine gearing
- Thread starter jazle
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mjc85
Well-Known Member
I'm sure the old ones were 1d3up and only the new ones in the grey case are 4up.
crazzy #1
Well-Known Member
yep, what bones said... there was an older model which was start in anygear but patter was 1,n,2,3,4... which came out with the thumpstar 04 and 05... correct me if im wrong
there is new lifans with the 1,n,2,3,4 pattern, these engines are all black, painted head which are not made out off alloy unlike the silvered ones... correct me if im wrong there aswell because im unsure wether they are aloy, or just painted different colours
there is new lifans with the 1,n,2,3,4 pattern, these engines are all black, painted head which are not made out off alloy unlike the silvered ones... correct me if im wrong there aswell because im unsure wether they are aloy, or just painted different colours
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Trashthumpy
Well-Known Member
yeah my lifan slips from 3rd to N can i do anything about it its realy anoying. ps. sorry to steal your thread. lol
crazzy #1
Well-Known Member
yes, i can get a new gear! i think that was a fix star selector i think it was called
Trashthumpy
Well-Known Member
were do i get one its really pissing me off! what is it exactly?
crazzy #1
Well-Known Member
a better machined gear that goes in ur gearbox!... might have to get it from america!!! not to sure were to get it from
Trashthumpy
Well-Known Member
sounds like big $$$$$ il put up wid it lol
you could always get another gear star and then get your's machined down, basically your deepening the grooves cause what happens is your a little heavy footed, you click the gears down and it slips because the groove isnt deep enough to support whats sliding into it, thus it pops out and slides into neutral.
if you deepen this groove it will ensure it harder to slip from one gear to the next.
i will look for some images as i saw this demonstrated on a forum somewhere.
Cheers, Tony.
if you deepen this groove it will ensure it harder to slip from one gear to the next.
i will look for some images as i saw this demonstrated on a forum somewhere.
Cheers, Tony.
This is from another post that I made on another site; http://www.planetminis.com/chinese-import-minis/38069_2-best-fix-for-a-rcm-zonzeng.htm?highlight=zongshen
If you do not want to read the whole thing here is what I wrote:
Take a look at you shifter drum on the 1dn 3up I have notice it binding during the rotational transition between the 1st and neutral, 2nd to neutral positions.
There is a high point when the guide pins must overcome a cam lobe type peak, mine is binding at that point, hense my idea of a helper spring.
I going to take it apart to see if it is tolerance related. The all up does not have this issue based on its design. It would make sense that mod the shift star and spring would help overcome the binding and help with positive engagement into the correct position. It maybe that the ramp profile of the shifter drum is too drastic and that the lobe profile is too sharp.
Anyone who has these sitting around could compare the tolerances and specs of a known high quality unit (if it exists) and the oem unit.
If you do not want to read the whole thing here is what I wrote:
Take a look at you shifter drum on the 1dn 3up I have notice it binding during the rotational transition between the 1st and neutral, 2nd to neutral positions.
There is a high point when the guide pins must overcome a cam lobe type peak, mine is binding at that point, hense my idea of a helper spring.
I going to take it apart to see if it is tolerance related. The all up does not have this issue based on its design. It would make sense that mod the shift star and spring would help overcome the binding and help with positive engagement into the correct position. It maybe that the ramp profile of the shifter drum is too drastic and that the lobe profile is too sharp.
Anyone who has these sitting around could compare the tolerances and specs of a known high quality unit (if it exists) and the oem unit.
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well I took it apart and that lobe is not a lobe but its flat, see pic included.
the radius of the the corner is too sharp, it may need to be blended alittle to help in the transition from rise to platue of the step.
Anyone have any drums sitting around that can look to see if this is the same on your drum?
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...b/RIMG0002.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...b/RIMG0003.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...b/RIMG0004.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...b/RIMG0005.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n6/chiribomb/RIMG0006.jpg
the radius of the the corner is too sharp, it may need to be blended alittle to help in the transition from rise to platue of the step.
Anyone have any drums sitting around that can look to see if this is the same on your drum?
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...b/RIMG0002.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...b/RIMG0003.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...b/RIMG0004.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...b/RIMG0005.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n6/chiribomb/RIMG0006.jpg
I went ahead and blended the radius on both platues and also the adjacent transitions, it really helps the way in which the drum and pins work together.
I assembled the tranny and noticed another problem that was causing the drum not to rachet in to 1st and 2nd from neutral.
The primary gear was getting hung up on the shifting gear.
See enclosed pictures.
The shifting gear has 3 prongs on it that engage into the primary gear.
The prongs are fly cut but they had sharp edges, which would grab the face of the primary gear preventing it from meshing with it.
I smoothed and radius the 3 oval prongs and now it will smoothly goes from neutral to first and neutral to second with very little effort. Before i had to rotate the main shaft and wiggle the drum back and forth to get it to engage the gears or switch gears.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...b/R0011531.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n6/chiribomb/R0011529.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n6/chiribomb/th_R0011530.jpg
I assembled the tranny and noticed another problem that was causing the drum not to rachet in to 1st and 2nd from neutral.
The primary gear was getting hung up on the shifting gear.
See enclosed pictures.
The shifting gear has 3 prongs on it that engage into the primary gear.
The prongs are fly cut but they had sharp edges, which would grab the face of the primary gear preventing it from meshing with it.
I smoothed and radius the 3 oval prongs and now it will smoothly goes from neutral to first and neutral to second with very little effort. Before i had to rotate the main shaft and wiggle the drum back and forth to get it to engage the gears or switch gears.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...b/R0011531.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n6/chiribomb/R0011529.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n6/chiribomb/th_R0011530.jpg
For those that are interested in specifically which gear i cleaned up, it is number 6 on the drawing
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n6/chiribomb/trans.jpg
Does anyone know why the 2 shafts on the honda motor are shorter than the chinese clones.
Both motors have clutch on the tranny, is it that the motor is based on the honda nice? I can not find any links to parts microfische for the honda nice, is it called something else? If parts are available for that motor from honda then hardened gears and maybe different ratios are available also. I would like to find the tech white sheets for the original design before it was cloned by chinese, idealy the cad drawings: lol.
I have built alot of hi po motors from 2 stroke to 4 stroke, and until the spec and tolerances of a motor is made available we wont be blueprinting these anytime soon. I not into competion just like to mod things and get the best performance to dollar ratio.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n6/chiribomb/trans.jpg
Does anyone know why the 2 shafts on the honda motor are shorter than the chinese clones.
Both motors have clutch on the tranny, is it that the motor is based on the honda nice? I can not find any links to parts microfische for the honda nice, is it called something else? If parts are available for that motor from honda then hardened gears and maybe different ratios are available also. I would like to find the tech white sheets for the original design before it was cloned by chinese, idealy the cad drawings: lol.
I have built alot of hi po motors from 2 stroke to 4 stroke, and until the spec and tolerances of a motor is made available we wont be blueprinting these anytime soon. I not into competion just like to mod things and get the best performance to dollar ratio.
look at the expoded drawing number 6 with the 3 prongs.
The top of the prongs are flat but the edge is too sharp.
use emery cloth or a fine roll of emery cloth and mandrel that can be used in a die grinder.
Radius the edges of the prongs so that when they move to go into number 3 gear and they mesh correctly.
If you look at the pic you can seen the shine that is the radius'ed edges.
The drum has the U shape grooves in it that need to have the sharp edges taken off them.
Where ever there is a change in direction of the groove ie horizonal to vertical look at the edge.
Use a rotary file with a 45 degree angle and massage that sharp edge into a nice smooth Radius.
Then take the drum and pin #2 and move it along its path so that it can move freely at the point it transitions from horz to vertical.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n6/chiribomb/drum.jpg
i hope that helps and let me know what you find.
The top of the prongs are flat but the edge is too sharp.
use emery cloth or a fine roll of emery cloth and mandrel that can be used in a die grinder.
Radius the edges of the prongs so that when they move to go into number 3 gear and they mesh correctly.
If you look at the pic you can seen the shine that is the radius'ed edges.
The drum has the U shape grooves in it that need to have the sharp edges taken off them.
Where ever there is a change in direction of the groove ie horizonal to vertical look at the edge.
Use a rotary file with a 45 degree angle and massage that sharp edge into a nice smooth Radius.
Then take the drum and pin #2 and move it along its path so that it can move freely at the point it transitions from horz to vertical.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n6/chiribomb/drum.jpg
i hope that helps and let me know what you find.
jazle
Well-Known Member
hi just wondering if this is a lifan engine it is a 10234 gear pattern
gear pattern
gear pattern
jazle
Well-Known Member
dam da pictures kind of went in the wrong place lol
crazzy #1
Well-Known Member
that looks like a N,1,2,3,4 not a 1,N,2,3,4???
You can order any gear pattern in Lifans that you want. Also there would be many of the bike assemblers with the 1dn 3up Lifans still in stock. I prefer the 1d 3up myself and know others who do as well. As for shifting probs, I don't seem to get them, so I don't care for the all up.
For you guys having shifting problems, I'd try moving the shifter down a couple of notches on the shaft. I notice a lot of guys have the lever running pretty much parrallel with the footpegs just how they come in the box. When I'm riding my foot is pionting down at about 30-40 degrees. I set mine down so I only have to lift my toe and shift. Because it is adjusted down like this it is also easy to downshift with greater control and little effort. I believe with it set high it is too easy to slam down too hard on the shifter and spin the drum past second into neutral and also when landing jumps knocking it out of gear.
For you guys having shifting problems, I'd try moving the shifter down a couple of notches on the shaft. I notice a lot of guys have the lever running pretty much parrallel with the footpegs just how they come in the box. When I'm riding my foot is pionting down at about 30-40 degrees. I set mine down so I only have to lift my toe and shift. Because it is adjusted down like this it is also easy to downshift with greater control and little effort. I believe with it set high it is too easy to slam down too hard on the shifter and spin the drum past second into neutral and also when landing jumps knocking it out of gear.
jazle
Well-Known Member
ok. but is it a lifian or not?
