lxr fork oil amount/weight?

[AntNZ]

Hi I have 2 lxr's , a 14 and 12. Anyone know how much fork oil they hold and what wt should I go for? I weigh 80-85kg.

The lxr14 has 790mm forks and the 12 has 760mm forks, I presume from what I have read that they are gpx black labels??

What wt is in them from factory?, and how many mls?

I only want to put the right amount of oil in and if they are too soft/hard will change the wt accordingly.

I dont want to put any extra oil in as I have been told that it is bad for the forks and seals coz it changes the oil/air ratio in them and wont let them function properly.

Thanks

 

[motorman]

Hi I have 2 lxr's , a 14 and 12. Anyone know how much fork oil they hold and what wt should I go for? I weigh 80-85kg.

The lxr14 has 790mm forks and the 12 has 760mm forks, I presume from what I have read that they are gpx black labels??

What wt is in them from factory?, and how many mls?

I only want to put the right amount of oil in and if they are too soft/hard will change the wt accordingly.

I dont want to put any extra oil in as I have been told that it is bad for the forks and seals coz it changes the oil/air ratio in them and wont let them function properly.

Thanks

Don't quote me on this but I think for memory it was 250ml?

I usually pour out the old fork oil in a measuring cup and measure both forks to give you a rough starting point.

I went up to 7.5w oil from the stock 5w and was much happier with the performance.

 

[AntNZ]

Don't quote me on this but I think for memory it was 250ml?

I usually pour out the old fork oil in a measuring cup and measure both forks to give you a rough starting point.

I went up to 7.5w oil from the stock 5w and was much happier with the performance.

Cheers motorman, Do both sets of forks take the same amount even though their overall length is different?

 

[AntNZ]

And is it as simple as taking forks off, undoing the top nut and pouring the old oil out?

Nothing else important is likely to come out of the forks aswell???

 

[motorman]

Cheers motorman, Do both sets of forks take the same amount even though their overall length is different?

Yeah they take the same. Are also the same length so not sure what you measured there?

And is it as simple as taking forks off, undoing the top nut and pouring the old oil out?

Nothing else important is likely to come out of the forks aswell???

Pretty much. Unless you want to do the fork seals while you have it all undone (which personally is a good idea). Nah no little bit's that you should be worried about. Just need to pop the cap which sometimes is a pain in the butt. Put an old towel around the fork leg (to protect it) and stick it in the vice (just tight enough to hold it or you will damage your fork) and should be able to get it off with a shifter.

Can you chuck a pic up of them?

Also thinking now there was a really good thread with pictures on here on exactly how to change oil and seals. Let me see if I can find it for you.

 

[motorman]

Try this. Bit more detail. Although oil levels seem low as stated here. I would measure.

****Here is a helpful step by step way to service your PITSTER PRO GPX FORKS.


The following oil weights and volume are general suggestions only. You may need to tweak your own combination to
achieve the best results for you style riding and weight.
Rider Weight Oil Weight Oil Volume per Leg
<100# 5wt 80cc
100-130 10wt 100cc
130-180 20wt 120cc

Tools Needed:
6mm Allen wrench
5mm Allen wrench
(2) 17mm open end wrenches
15/16 low socket
Plastic bucket
Ratio Rite cup that has ml and cc's
Fork siphon or syringe
20wt synthetic fork oil I use Torco products
"Jeremiah Staggs" uses 80wt BelRay Gear Oil with anti shear additive this has the same consistency as
20wt fork oil and has anti-shear added.

Here we Go:
(1) Start off by removing only one of your fork legs at a time. This is because some may get confused and
I like to allow for proper Fork height alignment when reinstalling.
(2) With Fork Leg Removed and in a Vertical position:
(3) Remove the top cap with a 15/16 standard short socket carefully "while it’s still vertical. with this done
and the top cap off slowly pull the cap up till about 6 inches of the spring is visible and let gravity drain
into a plastic bucket:
(4) after a few minutes take a clean rag and wipe the (2) Nuts off below the cap and draw a mark on both
nuts across from each other. This is to ensure that you get the correct height adjustment back to the
Metering Rod (Dampening Rod) back to the correct position to where you started with.

(5) Now take the (2) 17mm wrenches and unscrew the top cap from the spring assembly (counting the
number of turns you made past the marks on the nuts) and slowly separate the assembly (making sure
not to bend or damage the Dampening rod):
(6) Completely remove the rod and set it aside and (again do not drop or bend the rod) and let the rest of
the Fork assembly gravity drain into the plastic bucket for 5 min or so. Now take the fork leg while over
the Bucket and slowly pump the fork tube in and out and you will notice (where the dampening rod goes
in) the oil will drain out of it....and also the lower fork tube Do this many many time till no more oil comes
out. (don’t worry about the spring assembly falling out as its attached to the lower leg with a Allen bolt):

Next step is get the Fork oil and Ratio Rite cup and Syringe and pour (no more than between 75cc and
100cc of 20wt fork oil (150lb---200lb) riders also 15wt oil can be used also for less (120lb---150lb) riders
and play with the oil levels as needed add or subtract between 75cc and 100cc:
(7) Now with 99.9% of the used fork oil drained and the fork tube in the collapsed position and standing
vertical. Fill the Fork (siphon/syringe) and start adding fork oil to dampening rod tube:
Courtesy of Outlaw Powersports
And continue this till all (between 75cc----100cc) (150lb---200lb) of fork oil is used. this might take 3 or 4
times with the Syringe (DO THIS VERY SLOWLY AS NOT TO GET IT ALL OVER THE PLACE OR IN YOUR
EYES):
Now with the Fork tube assembly still Vertical give it a few minutes it will partially bleed itself of air
bubbles (not completely). Now carefully wipe down the Dampening rod and cap assembly and insert it
slowly down the Dampening tube. Now thread it back together counting the number of turns from
disassembly and tighten it back to the marks you made on the 2 nuts till they are opposite from each
other. And carefully use the 15/16 shallow socket to thread the top cap back to the fork tube so it looks
like this again:

(8) Now with the fork leg assembled I pumped it continuously in several different "Click" settings to help
Bleed the air from the forks (they will continue to bleed themselves) on your bike also
(9) Replace the fork tube back into your triple clamps and remember to Torque the bolts to proper specs.
And move on to the other fork Tube assembly.
*Note: while the Forks are apart you can continue to disassemble the spring and dampening tube
assembly and clean all the part and get ride of any excess oil. And upon reassembly of these parts
Remember to get the correct Height adj of the Dampening Rod, spring, Dampening Rod shaft and top cap
back to the correct Adj length.

 

[AntNZ]

When I said "both sets of forks" I meant the set off the lxr 12-760mm and the lxr 14-790mm, the 14 has longer forks so would they hold more oil?

 

[motorman]

When I said "both sets of forks" I meant the set off the lxr 12-760mm and the lxr 14-790mm, the 14 has longer forks so would they hold more oil?

Sorry mate I misinterpreted that.

Must be different forks then?

Possible could hold more oil but not necessarily.

All I can suggest is to measure what comes out.

 

[AntNZ]

Try this. Bit more detail. Although oil levels seem low as stated here. I would measure.

****Here is a helpful step by step way to service your PITSTER PRO GPX FORKS.


The following oil weights and volume are general suggestions only. You may need to tweak your own combination to
achieve the best results for you style riding and weight.
Rider Weight Oil Weight Oil Volume per Leg
<100# 5wt 80cc
100-130 10wt 100cc
130-180 20wt 120cc

Tools Needed:
6mm Allen wrench
5mm Allen wrench
(2) 17mm open end wrenches
15/16 low socket
Plastic bucket
Ratio Rite cup that has ml and cc's
Fork siphon or syringe
20wt synthetic fork oil I use Torco products
"Jeremiah Staggs" uses 80wt BelRay Gear Oil with anti shear additive this has the same consistency as
20wt fork oil and has anti-shear added.

Here we Go:
(1) Start off by removing only one of your fork legs at a time. This is because some may get confused and
I like to allow for proper Fork height alignment when reinstalling.
(2) With Fork Leg Removed and in a Vertical position:
(3) Remove the top cap with a 15/16 standard short socket carefully "while it’s still vertical. with this done
and the top cap off slowly pull the cap up till about 6 inches of the spring is visible and let gravity drain
into a plastic bucket:
(4) after a few minutes take a clean rag and wipe the (2) Nuts off below the cap and draw a mark on both
nuts across from each other. This is to ensure that you get the correct height adjustment back to the
Metering Rod (Dampening Rod) back to the correct position to where you started with.

(5) Now take the (2) 17mm wrenches and unscrew the top cap from the spring assembly (counting the
number of turns you made past the marks on the nuts) and slowly separate the assembly (making sure
not to bend or damage the Dampening rod):
(6) Completely remove the rod and set it aside and (again do not drop or bend the rod) and let the rest of
the Fork assembly gravity drain into the plastic bucket for 5 min or so. Now take the fork leg while over
the Bucket and slowly pump the fork tube in and out and you will notice (where the dampening rod goes
in) the oil will drain out of it....and also the lower fork tube Do this many many time till no more oil comes
out. (don’t worry about the spring assembly falling out as its attached to the lower leg with a Allen bolt):

Next step is get the Fork oil and Ratio Rite cup and Syringe and pour (no more than between 75cc and
100cc of 20wt fork oil (150lb---200lb) riders also 15wt oil can be used also for less (120lb---150lb) riders
and play with the oil levels as needed add or subtract between 75cc and 100cc:
(7) Now with 99.9% of the used fork oil drained and the fork tube in the collapsed position and standing
vertical. Fill the Fork (siphon/syringe) and start adding fork oil to dampening rod tube:
Courtesy of Outlaw Powersports
And continue this till all (between 75cc----100cc) (150lb---200lb) of fork oil is used. this might take 3 or 4
times with the Syringe (DO THIS VERY SLOWLY AS NOT TO GET IT ALL OVER THE PLACE OR IN YOUR
EYES):
Now with the Fork tube assembly still Vertical give it a few minutes it will partially bleed itself of air
bubbles (not completely). Now carefully wipe down the Dampening rod and cap assembly and insert it
slowly down the Dampening tube. Now thread it back together counting the number of turns from
disassembly and tighten it back to the marks you made on the 2 nuts till they are opposite from each
other. And carefully use the 15/16 shallow socket to thread the top cap back to the fork tube so it looks
like this again:

(8) Now with the fork leg assembled I pumped it continuously in several different "Click" settings to help
Bleed the air from the forks (they will continue to bleed themselves) on your bike also
(9) Replace the fork tube back into your triple clamps and remember to Torque the bolts to proper specs.
And move on to the other fork Tube assembly.
*Note: while the Forks are apart you can continue to disassemble the spring and dampening tube
assembly and clean all the part and get ride of any excess oil. And upon reassembly of these parts
Remember to get the correct Height adj of the Dampening Rod, spring, Dampening Rod shaft and top cap
back to the correct Adj length.

Sound's a little bit technical, no doubt it will all make sense once I pull them apart and have a look.

Bit off topic but I see you're running the TB cdi's on your lxr's, are they much better than the stock cdi's, do they plug straight in with standard wiring harness?

 

[motorman]

Nah just do what I told you and refer to the detailed one if you get stuck.

The TB rev box's only go on YX motors not HO or anima motors.

Yes I learnt that the hard way. haha

 

[AntNZ]

Thank's MM, I'll give it a go when I get some fork oil.

 

[AntNZ]

Thank's MM, I'll give it a go when I get some fork oil.

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

If you crack the caps while the forks are still in the triples you dont run the risk of marking your forks with the vice..

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