Mikuni carb on MSO bike

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tysons_201

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Are these genuine mikuni carbs? i checked the mikuni site and read a manual on tuning these carbs and my carb doesnt have the air/fuel screw like on the real mikuni. Does this mean my carb is a fake? and how can i tune it?
The carb has mikuni written on it
 
it will be a knock off mikuni, it has the air/fuel screw on the back of it to set the idle.
 
there is only 1 screw on it and thats the idle screw which just stops the cylinder from dropping all the way to the bottom why just adjusts the idle. How do i adjust the air/fuel mixture?
 


It's in a dog of a spot.

You may have to make up a special little bent screwdriver for it or try and find one to suit
 
No-Fear said:
it will be a knock off mikuni, it has the air/fuel screw on the back of it to set the idle.
If it is a knock-off how do they get away with stamping the words 'Mikuni' and 'Japan' on it. Dunno...what makes you think it's a knock off?
 
I found the screw in the spot Mack has stated. And indeed it is a dog of a spot and will have to make something up to tune it. I played around with it with the end piece of a screwdriver trying to tune it but once the engine got too hot i had to stop before i burnt myself.
 
Max99 said:
If it is a knock-off how do they get away with stamping the words 'Mikuni' and 'Japan' on it. Dunno...what makes you think it's a knock off?
trust me dude, the carb is made in china, how do u think shit companies get away with putting thumpstar gfx on a bike thats not even a thumpstar?
in china they can do anything.
 
So would i use the same tuning guide as the real style mikuni?
 
No-Fear said:
trust me dude, the carb is made in china, how do u think shit companies get away with putting thumpstar gfx on a bike thats not even a thumpstar?
in china they can do anything.

All Mikuni carburetors are manufactured in China. Mikuni has six major plants in china. That carb is a genuine Mikuni Corporation carburetor. Only the most high tech injection and electrical componants made by Mikuni are still done in Japan.

When something is knocked off, an easy way to tell, for the uninformed, is the name or badging will be slightly different. You can not copy a name exactly. Especially a corporated company name.
 
Sorry Tyson, yeah tune the same, cause it is the same.
 
Hard to tune these things. I don't notice barely any difference in lumpyness of the revs when turning the screw in and out.
 
The pilot system meters fuel ratio from idle to 1/4 and a bit beyond as you probably are reading. In order to check correct jetting you need to warm the bike up to full operating temp. then adjust the idle screw to raise the revs to 1500- 1800 rpm. This causes the pilot jet to be in full operational use. Then you need to screw the air/fuel mixture screw in both directions till you hear the motor start to run poorly in both directions. The whole time counting the revolutions between the two spots. Once this is determined, the spot halfway between them should give good running.

Now once this spot has been found, you need to count and screw the needle all the way in. If the amount of turns is greater than 2 you need go down in jet size. If the amount is less than about 3/4 turn go up.

Now you can start to see where were going with this. We want the jet to operate correctly within a range only 1-2 turns out. Many of these motors are jetted and tuned way out. This is the first step to take for all those guys who really want to get rid of that bog off idle or to fix the instant throttle opening problem. You will be surprised how much acceleration you will gain on your mates with the bike pulling off idle with crisp throttling.

Then you start to look at your main jet. You want, once again, for your needle to either be set on the middle clip or one down or one up. If you need to have your needle at the very top or bottom setting, then your main jet is wrong and you need to go either up or down in main jet size.
 
I still can't get rid of that bog off idle. If i give it a quick rev it will just stall when the revs are low. I don't really know what your talkn about when you refer to the different jets.
I have taken apart the carb and noticed there is a few jet screws and stuff in there but i havent touched them i have just been playing with the air/fuel screw from the outside of the carb. Maybe i need to adjust the jets to get rid of the flat spot?
 
is your bike idling too slow?

I read somewhere that idle should be 1000rpm but duno if thats right, seems a bit high to me.

might be worth changing.
 
i've adjusted the idle to what i think is right. if your revs are real low idling in 1st gear and you flatten it as fast as ya can does yours die?
 
cant really remember, but it if was going about idle speed i think it would. I know it did it when it was cold, but when it was warm i dont think it did. You sure your not running it with the choke on? (lever up = choke on)
 
i'm sure. Its not too bad only dies when the revs are really low and i give it a quick rev to full throttle.
 

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