New (china) Bike Owners, stuff you need to do

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pitboss125

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Found a thread about 8 months ago on what to do when you get your new bike. As most people know, when china bikes come out of the crate there is a fair bit of work needed before they are truly ready to ride (that is if you don't want it to literally fall apart) So i thought starting a thread on things that need to be done would be a good idea and everyone could contribute the things they have found that need to be done. Ill be getting my third new bike sometime in the next couple of weeks so i have gone through a lot of the new bike problems. Ill start it off with some things that i have learnt and think are important.

- Chain - It is a real good idea to replace the stock shitty china chains with a high quality RK or DID. This is because the stock chains stretch very quickly and snap not long after.

- Loctite - pulling apart your bike and putting loctite on all the threads really is critical, it only takes a few laps and you will be missing screws, nuts and bolts all round. In particular, i have found the bolts that hold the bash plate and foot peg mount to the motor come loose very quickly.

-Air Filter - While its not critical to change your air filter when you get it, its not a bad idea and should be done sooner rather then later. A high quality uni filter and some proper air filter oil is a good idea.

- Oil - Personally i find the mineral based oil that comes in the motors fine for the run in process, i then change to a good quality oil after say 3 tanks of fuel. I personally dont think regular oil changes are important in these motors as they arnt highly worked and powerful and they arnt really put under uch stress. (in comparrison with say a worked crf50 motor)

- Forks - It is a good idea to get rid of the crap oil that the forks come with and replace with a high quality fork oil. Experements should be made to find your perfect set up.

- breather hose - On the back of the motor there is a breather hose, this usually comes with a zip tie closing it off preventing any oil leaving the motor during transit. YOU MUST cut this off before starting your motor.

- quick throttle - If your bike doenst have one, get one. Its not only safer but it makes life much easier not having to change your grip three times before the motor revs out.

Ok so thats a few things that i find important, show me your's guys.

Cheers, Dave
 
DDR200Supermotard. do u mean spokes?

and how much is good quality fork oil?
 
oil the clutch and throtle cables

Actualy that sounds like a good idea, does it make much difference? i could never understand why two of my bikes both running the same throttle and carby felt so different as far as freeness and smootheness is concerned. ill have to give it a try, do u just use normal oil? and how do you get it down in the cable?
 
its basicly just to extend there life so they dont break prematurly and it makes it a bit smoother

i use light machine oil and you just put it in the top of the cable and pump the clutch, then put some more in ect.
 
About the chain i still have my shitty KMC chain on and its still going on strong i just make sure to oil it and it lasts a while even if its shit
 
Is it a good idea to buy a new chain before riding ur pitty?
 
yea i admit when i got my pitboss it had a kmc chain and it lasted for ages, just stretched more then a good one. The only reason it lasted so long though was because it was a 428 compared to most bikes that run a 420. The 428 is a larger chain designed for higher powered bikes and few pitbikes come with them. However your bike probably does? Kmc is one of the better stock chains that come on the bikes but still they are nowhere near as good as a high quality rk. when i first got an orion a couple of years ago it came with this 420 no brand chain that stretched to the point where it would fall off within about half an hour of each time i readjusted it. Also the angle of your swingarm in relation with the front sprocket has a fair bit to do with it. If you imagined a line going from the centre of the front sprocket passing through the centre of the bolt that joins the swingarm to the frame, extended out and compare where the rear wheel axle sits this will determine how your bikes chain will react as far as being stretched or snapped during the shock being compressed. Basically if your axle is lower then the imaginary line, every time your shock gets compressed its going to get pulled tighter. In a perfect world the bolt joining the swing arm to the frame would be in line with the centre of the sprocket. This would mean the chain tension would always be the same no matter what stage of movement your shock is in. Basically i like to do everything as well as i can, so now when i get a new bike i quickly replace the front and rear sprockets with 428 ones and buy a high quality rk 428 chain. That way i never have to worry about it stretching.
 

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