Oil Cooling

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THUMPY125

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hey guys little confuussed i was recently on ebay looking at the 140cc outlaw motors and i saw some of them oil cooled but not at the head. I didn't know that they put oil coolers near the clutch can some one please clarify this. thanx.
 
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Its better that its not off the head in my eyes
im pretty shore it pumps from the crank
i run one on my outlaw and they do there job nicely considering it was a 36 degree day yesterday
 
This looks like a factory fit up instead of an aftermarket fitting. All the Lifan engine bikes (pit pro, MSO, DHZ, etc) that come with an oil cooler will have the pipes from the case.
 
I am currently putting one of these engines into my DDR apache with the supplied cooler (after my last engine decided to destroy 3rd gear) and have been a little bit concerned as to how close the oil lines sit to the barell and inparticular how close the return line comes to the header pipe. As you can see I have wrapped the pipe and oil lines in exhaust wrap in the hope to keep away some of this heat. It might be over kill but I want to give this thing hell from day one (as per motoman run in procedure) and not have to worry about cooking the motor.

Hope these pics helps ya out and sorry about the poor resolution as I am still try to work out the best way to compress these pics enough to post them up.
 

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Ok, all fixed now

Thanks to Thumpy125 I now know how to post decent quality pictures

Hope they are helpful.
 
I think it is an overkill. Wrapping the lines like that MAY DECREASE the efficiency of the oil cooler (the lines themselves also disperse heat). I would probably have just wrapped the section of the exaust near the lines (and your leg) and left the oil cooler lines alone. Does anybody else have an opinion on this?
 
if i had an oil cooler i would be looking at making new hoses and get them away from the exhaust. but i would cover the exhaust so the least amount of heat comes from it. but then theres the heat from the head and barrel so i don't really know if there is anything you can do about it.
 
exactly were should connect my oil cooler?

hi, can you post more pics on where you connected the oil line off the cooler to the motor? thanks
 
hi, can you post more pics on where you connected the oil line off the cooler to the motor? thanks

This dude knows how to use the search funcition.

If you have an existing motor without a oil cooler then there will not be anywhere to connect one on the engine case..

If you have a new motor and it comes with a oil cooler then there will be two little bolts plugging up the holes on the bottom of the engine case (right hand front).

If you want to fit a aftermarket oil cooler to your engine you need a adaptor plate which bolts to the side of your head. This is cast to redirect the oil to a filter before it lubricates your top end
 
Hi thanks for your input, you are probably right it might be overkill but that is just me... I never have like doing things in half's

cass38a has pretty much explained everything about how to attach a cooler, if there are no little bolts coming out near the drain plug, then you will have to buy a side plate for the head (with threaded holes in it for the fittings/banjo bolts that attaches to the cooler lines). But for your money, much better looking for a kit with one supplied already.

If you are still not sure I have put a pic up of the required parts

coolerfittings.jpg


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Cheers Matt
 
borntoslide where have you been, you posted up 3 months ago and I havent seen you since. The minute your old thread pops up you come out of the woodwork.
 
Hey yeah I am still here, just been a busy the last few months.

Basicaly I broke 3rd gear in my 140cc and had to strip it all down and to replace the broken part, at that point I decided to start buying up parts to try and make it into a budget mini motard weapon, with some reasonably priced parts form akuna 6.9mm cam, 30 & 26mm valves , better springs, high velocity porting etc.

I am still trying to find out a lot more information regarding my build, like whether its is worth upgrading the bearings?, best type of metal to use for the valve seats? (to match head expansion rates) and so on. I really cant afford to have any failures and I have to get it right the first time. But that is currently on the back burner as I have just found out that they might not even race a 140cc class up here yet... So I might even end up taking it out to a 160cc for dirt work.

I haven't even had a ride in a few months (apart from a quick go on a friends ttr250 and his daughters ttr125) and I have been dying to get mine going. I have pulled apart my old 125cc expecting to find a broken 3rd gear and to my surprise, I have just bent the selector fork and worn off the tab on that side. After a little bit of applied heat and attitude adjustment with a large hammer, the fork is now straight and I have also welded on and shaped a new tab. even though It is now straight the tabs on that gear were not meshing as well as they should have been and I think this might have been half the reason the problem occurred in the first place. So I filed the little brass washer between the gears and then dished the outer washer a bit more to take up any excess play. It all seems to mesh very well now and hopefully wont give me any more problems in the near future. The motor used to slip out of gear all of the time mainly around third gear and I have also rounded of the star shaped sprocket that attaches to the shifter drum and I now seems to shift very nicely in between gears with little effort and more importantly with no false neutrals. But see how it goes when it is running.

As I have a clone rotor kit for my other motor, So I have put the magneto and backing plate of my 140 on too (just fits with no modifications) and advanced the timing 3mm, It is only a few grams lighter but it looks like a much better unit. Finally I am currently fixing up my first dodgy attempt at porting, now that I have the right tools for the job. It is only a small valve head but it now has got a very nice looking ports, with a much improved radius to the short side on the intake. I will have now have to get a spring made up for the spring seats, to help distribute some load and while I am at the machinists, I am going to see if it would be possible to fit the larger valves form my 140 and get a multi angle cut for a reasonable price, to make better use of my nice porting effort.

But yeah I am still here, just been on a bit of a steep learning curve for an armature like myself. But I am slowly getting there and also learning a lot at the same time.

Cheers Matt
 
Good to see you havent left us. Keep us posted on your build up. It sounds like you are learning a lot about these chineese engines and you should be able to help advise plenty of other amatuer machanics.
 
Hey thanks will do, yes I am about as amateur as they come:p . But like many I seem to learn more when I can get my hands on something, rather than just reading about it.

Will keep all you posted on my build and I am keen to share anything that I have learnt along the way.

Cheers Matt
 
hay guys new to the scene, just bought a 140cc oil cooled for my 138cc yamoto. i think its the twin spar frame?noob. were the hell can i fit the oil cooler. the carby faces the forks on these bikes
 
You can put it wherever you want, the more air flow it has the better. Before you get too far regarding running oil thru it just hold it in various positions and check for clearance and also that your lines are long enough to reach. Then get a nice strong bracket welded to the frame. Quick prox put one on his bike (according to the attached thread) so a PM to him might be the way to go.

http://www.miniriders.com.au/forum/tech-talk/11168-running-lifan-140-without-oil-cooler-5.html
 

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