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I have just started the bike for the first time, and after going through the gears, i have noticed that it seems to have trouble selecting neutral when running.
When changing from first to neutral (1up), it selects the 2nd gear instead, so when i click 1 down, thinking i will find neutral, it selects the first gear and skips neutral. I can take quite a while just to find neutral.

Is this because it is new and the gearbox is 'tight' or is this a problem?

Thanks,
 
man thats wat happens if this is oyur first bike u have to fiddle around with it and not click up or down soo hard and move your bike backwards and farwards
 
1 up from first is second, as is 1 down from second is first. neutral is half way between 1st and 2nd, so you need to try giving it a 1/2 tap of the foot. These Chinese gearboxes are always tight to start with, so extra gentle with the foot to start with helps. It will loosen up in time.
 
my lifan is neutrall all the way down the bottom soo u dont have to do that shit
 
Thanks

Thanks for the quick reply's
I'm taking it to my grandparents farm for the next 2 weeks, so i will be able to tell you about my 'China' bike and all my injuries...

-BORN TO BE MILD!!!
 
hey man just make sure u check it befor every ride like bolts and shit they come of easy ass
 
hey man just make sure u check it befor every ride like bolts and shit they come of easy ass


Definitely,

Buy some loctite and some antiseize compound. Use where necessary.
You'll likely want to pick up a metric tap & die kit while your at the store.
You'll probably need it when going over the bike.
 
just buy new quality bolts, why spend big $$$ on a tap&die set? the metal used in these bikes is like cheeze so ul keep having the same problem
 
just buy new quality bolts, why spend big $$$ on a tap&die set? the metal used in these bikes is like cheeze so ul keep having the same problem
LOL.. like cheese; what an apt analogy
A tap and Die set is a very handy bit of kit for the workshop when working on any bike, but if you swap out all the shitty bolts for quality high tensile ones in the first place you will never have a problem.
Except the bolts that you replaced pulling through the cheezzzyyy metal....
I am gunna borrow that one of you Trash..:D
 
those high tensile steel bolts you talk about, are they the ones that i can get at, for example, bunnings? Or do i need to go somewhere specific?
 
You could even go to a specialist, A mate of mine just got a new rear axle from this High Tensile Bolt place here in Newy for $10 with the nut. And it's BLACK..lol
 
I just went out and started the bike up again, getting it into neutral is easy now (now that i know how to do it)
Its just 1 up from 1st gear and a tiny bit down, not a full click, and then its in neutral.

I think i will go to buning's tomorrow and buy some steel bolts, i reckon any bolts is going to be better than the stuff supplied with the bike!
What thread locker should i use? ive got some loctite 262 stud locker, is that any good? or will it be to strong?

Is there anything else i should get while I'm out tomorrow?

PS: how much will a quality chain cost me?

Thanks,
 
You want medium strength loctite (the blue stuff). I havent done it but the best and cheapest thing to do regarding your bolts is to just take out one of every type and size you need (and count how many of each you need) and go to a bolt specalist and just get the lot (high tensile cad plated), as pegleg said you can even get high tensile axel bolts.

We dont have a fastners shop in mudgee and the packs available at the hardware are very expensive compared to a fastner shop and not all of them will be high tensile.
 
A good quality chain will cost between $35 - $80 depending on the pitch, 420/428.
And 1 up from first is still second gear, yes it is just a tiny bit down to neutral, but it's also only tiny bit up from 1st...lol
 

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