Questions about TDR pitpro/pitsterpro z160 HO

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fishnfreak

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I bought a TDR pitpro 150cc PITBIKE from eBay a while back and in a month I blew the motor. No worries I figured and It sat in the shed while I worked away.

Fast froward 6 months and I bought a brand new 2012 Pitsterpro z160 HO engine from dhz.com.au and fitted that into the frame, along with a Pitsterpro Big Bore Exhaust. I had trouble with a buggered stator from the start and the exhaust fueled on the clutch linkage. A bit of hammering fixed the exhaust and a left over stator at the bike shop got it running. And that's where it sat as I did another stint away.

Now I'm trying to get it running right but it runs terrible coughing and spluttering as it revs up. Would it be a simple matter of getting it tuned, or could the carb need replacing to a larger one.
 
are you using the carby off the 150? or did you buy a new one with the 160ho?
if so you will need to get the carby tuned or get a new carby then tune it.
i recommend this carby OKO 26mm FlateSlide Race Carby Kit
or this one
http://classichonda50saustralia.com.au/store/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=625
you proberly need to buy the manifold adapter aswell Manifolder Rubber Adaptor
when i had my yx160 when it was standard i used a keihin pe28 that was pretty good, think the jets were 38/100 but i could be wrong, haven't had a stock engine in 2 years so wont be much help with the correct jets for a standard 160
here is afew useful threads on carby tuning
http://www.miniriders.com/carby-tuning/20778-carburettor-tuning-guide.html
http://www.miniriders.com/carby-tuning/23986-those-about-rock-buying-oko-flatslides.html
http://www.miniriders.com/carby-tuning/24570-carby-settings-your-bike.html
http://www.miniriders.com/carby-tuning/16270-carby-pull-down-rebuild-tutorial.html

if you have already done that i recommend checking the valves
http://www.miniriders.com/motor-tutorials/24965-how-set-valve-clearances-horizontal-engines.html
Classic Honda 50's Australia - DRP Valve Adjust Tool Set
^that tool makes working on valves heaps easier
Classic Honda 50's Australia - Feeler Gauge - 0.002 and 0.003
Classic Honda 50's Australia - Feeler Gauge - 0.004 - 0.005
.003 and .004 are the ones you will need

also recommend putting a new plug like an NGK unless its already got one

hope that helps
 
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Good stuff harry, that info hazza gave you should help you get on top of it, and did you go away working and leave fuel in the carby, if you have left the same fuel in the carby until you got the new engine or over 6 months then throw the carb away, you can try and clean it but its what in the casting you cant see, fuel is made up of so many chemicals and when it evaporates all it leaves is a nasty smelling carby destroying gum builup.
 
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Good stuff harry, that info hazza gave you should help you get on top of it, and did you go away working and leave fuel in the carby, if you have left the same fuel in the carby until you got the new engine or over 6 months then throw the carb away, you can try and clean it but its what in the asting you cant see, fuel is made up of so many chemicals and when it evaporates all it leaves is a nasty smelling carby destroying gum builup.

Thanks for the heads up, and motovert, what can I say, cheers for the technical info.

This is my first bike, so I am very much a noob.

According to the link, "for those about to rock........" the oko flat slide is better suited to higher midrange and top end revs. I think I'll go for the 26mm oko
 
oko 26mm is a flat slide carby. It's the best carby I've used on the 160, easy to tune and punchy as.
 
Another question.
1AC1F961-1E0A-4136-853B-8E18E5D530D0-5047-00000BADF47C7460.jpg


This is my bike as it stands now.
I have an Oko Flatslide 26mm carb on the way, along with a pro taper clutch perch, and new clutch cable.

My question is why my exhaust, a pitster pro big bore, and one which was recommended to me by the people at Mini Bikes | Pitbikes | Dirt Bike Parts & Accessories | DHZ Mini Moto | Buy Online Australia doesn't fit as I reckon it should
 
looks like a crf style one not a klx one
have you tried undoing the head exhaust bolts and move the muffler up more see if it lines up and doing the muffler bolt up? guessing you have but just making sure
 
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Yeah but the problem lies in the way the exhaust sits. You can see how close to the engine the exhaust runs. It actually fouled on the clutch cable until I took a hammer to it. So now I can't really call it a big bore exhaust because I've had to close the diameter in the tube by a fair bit to allow the clutch cable to free up.

Do you mean the exhaust looks like a CRT one when it should be using a klx one?
 
That exhaust looks great it has the bend so it doesnt touch the frame at all, ive had a few different 155z(160ho) motors and i have had the klx style and crf style exhaust port grinds(where the engine attaches to the head). The klx and crf style port grinds are at different angles, i would personally ring DHZ and maybe even attach this pic to a email, i think it is def the crf style grind just from the way the pipe sits, but i would hate you to get the wrong one and have to send it back or cut and shut a new pipe.
 
Ok, URGENT QUESTION.

My new Oko 26mm arrived and I have tried fitting it but the carb doesn't have enough room to sit vertical as it hits the fuel tank. The manifold is e one that comes with the pitster pro 160ho. If it is sitting diagonal will it matter?
 
Mate I had the same prob, my 28 Flatslide is on enough angle so the cable runs up beside the fuel tank and I have not had any fuel starvation probs
 
Ok, URGENT QUESTION.

My new Oko 26mm arrived and I have tried fitting it but the carb doesn't have enough room to sit vertical as it hits the fuel tank. The manifold is e one that comes with the pitster pro 160ho. If it is sitting diagonal will it matter?

It depends on how much angle thou your probably better of posting up a picture so we can see, to much angle and the float won't work. The bike will cough and splutter at high revs, if say its only 20 degrees or less it will be fine like Rotn said, run it and see.
 

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