Running In An Engine

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Brocko

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Hey everyone,

Iam going to be purchasing a new pitbike soon, and seeing as Iam new to this whole scene, i have some questions about running in the bikes engine, i heard if not done correctly it can stuff the engine, so i want to make sure i do it right.

Could you tell me how to run it in, what oil to use and when to change it ect...

Cheers, Brocko.

P.S Thought this could qualify for sticky as im sure all us noobs need to know how to do this correctly.
 
Just ride it like you normally would ride it and change the oil after your first ride.
 
There are heaps of threads on this forum which can tell you what your looking for but anyway..

There are some theories on how you should run it in.. i dont know if they are true or not but the main one every bike company seems to agree on is..

Dont over rev it for the first 3 tanks of petrol.. take it easy.. My friend seemed to think getting into 4th when your running it in is a bad thing.. Nope its a really good thing.. Try and get into fourth as much as possible and DONT over rev it in first or second.. With most engines besides the good ones like Lifan.. They can fuck up really easy if you dont treat them with the respect.
 
as above, plus it should come with oil already in it, check the level and use that to run it in with,

than after youve used a tank of fuel, change the oil to 10w40 quality MINERAL oil, than change it afterwards about every 5-10 hours, frequent oil changes will result in a longer lasting engine!

dont just let it idle either, actually ride it, otherwise youll just overheat it,
 
You can let it idle for like 10-20 seconds to warm up.. he means dont go make a coffee and read a newspaper with your bike still running.
 
thnx benox you knew what i meant lol, bad wording:mad:
 
So I guess a simple way you could put it is to keep the engine quiet and smoothe?
 
ive been through all this..its annoying. on one side you have people saying low revs and smooth and on the other give it plenty of revs in higher gears and work the engine...im gonna go with riding it like you always do but with MINERAL oil and make sure you use alot of engine breaking (very crucial)...maybe run in up and down a hill, quick change first to second up the hill and give it some then start in seacond going down then to third and then back it off and let the engine do the breaking!
 
Instead of running in on a dyno, could you put your bike on the stand or a milk crate or something just so the back wheel is off the ground? When it says 1 dyno session, is that like 1 minute or around that time?
 
i heard its bad to run your bike with no pressure at all on the wheel or chain, it damages the engine or sumthin coz it can rev soo much higher with no weight..as to the dyno run..i have no idea lol
 
Dude just ride it like you would normally ride a bike and you will have no problems. Dont listen to the people telling you to take it easy for the first few tanks there is no point. Give that site what meko and geezus18 posted a good read.
 
get on it and ride it, ride it hard but not over the top. the motor needs to be under some load. after every tank of fuel you go through, ride it harder and longer. you will know if your over doing it when you go to give it more throttle and there is none.
 
Speaking purely from an engineers perspective you actually do have to pay a bit of attention to running the engine in.

When you first get the bike, the whole engine is "tight". This means that nothing has been worn in at all. The piston rings are very tight in the bore, the bearings have not been run in at all, the valve springs are going to be very tight etc etc. The big thing with this, is that the engine is not designed to run hard when it is so tight. Thats where the running in period comes in. There is no real way to know if the engine is properly bedded in or not, its just a common sense thing. Don't get on and flog the jesus out of it on the first ride coz you could possibly score the barrel or do other nasty stuff.
In my opinion (and i've never actually broken in a brand new engine, only ones that i've rebuilt) i'd take it quite easy for the first ride of about 20 mins. Just cycle through the gears at quite low revs, but don't really punch it, just cruise around as if you were taking your grandma for a spin on the back. After the first 20 min ride, take a break for a while.
On the second ride, you can go a little harder, but still, the engine is going to be tight, so just work into it slowly but you can give it a bit more.
With each ride up until you've got maybe 1.5 - 2hrs under the belt, just slowly get harder and harder. After this said time, change the oil and you should be right to ride your life away!!

The other thing that people don't think about when they talk about breaking in a bike engine is the gearbox! Gears need to be properly seated and have a bit of use before you should really go flogging them. Gears will wear uniformly over time so you have to create some wear marks on them before they will really work well. Same with bearings, they should really be run in a bit before giving them a flogging.

Of course, its up to you how you run your bike in, there is no "biblical" way to do it, but just use a bit of common sense and i'm sure you'll be fine.

Cheers mate.

Matty
 
I dont get what oil they think to use. Maybe should just run 20w50 Valvoline XLD or something by the sounds, but it would be too thick for a new engine. oes Mineral oil include normal oil with synthetic addtitives (eg castrol 4t, shell advance 4, Silkolene 10/40). Because all motorcycle oil contain synthetic addtives!/ maybe penrite 10/50 HPR Gas?
 
I dont get what oil they think to use. Maybe should just run 20w50 Valvoline XLD or something by the sounds, but it would be too thick for a new engine. oes Mineral oil include normal oil with synthetic addtitives (eg castrol 4t, shell advance 4, Silkolene 10/40). Because all motorcycle oil contain synthetic addtives!/ maybe penrite 10/50 HPR Gas?


Let her warm up for 5 minutes and let her rip.


Taking it easy will not seat the rings+good compression, no oil contamination<more power.


DONT BABY IT
,


Just drive it hard, and make sure you let it watm up before you ride.

Change with mineral oil and change alot for the first 10 hours or so.

In my opinion just keep using mineral if its stock, and the clutch are shit on these so dont use synthetic, and suoppusitly the oil pump cant keepp with the super slick thin synthetic because these are cloned motor from the original 50, with added cc etc 80's and 70's when there was no synthetic and just regular SLOW mineral.
 

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