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pmc.21

pmc.21

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Ok,

I know there are alot of threads about this, but there are so many different replies on every one, so i thought id make my own thread and find the correct answer!

My new Pitpro 140XR is on its way, so ive been researching a few things in terms of maintainence.

When i get the bike and am running it in should i keep the oil that it came with in it, or change it, if change it, what do i change it to, as in synthetic, half synthetic etc?

Im just so confused about the whole oil topic when running a bike in. Also any other things i should do to my bike when i get it just to get maximum performance out of it and keep it in tip top shape, such as put this on, lock tight this etc etc

Cheers
 
Last edited:
Don't use the oil that comes in the bike.

Use a mineral base oil. I suggest Valvoline XLD Premium as it is cheap and comes in a 5 litre bottle for $20

Trust me if you run a $40 bottle of oil it won't make any difference.


Don't hit full revs but go kind of hard on your bike giving it short bursts of throttle.

Do this for 3 tanks of fuel and dump the oil. You can use the same type of oil (mineral) again or switch to semi synthetic but I swear by mineral base.
 
3 tanks wow every one i have talked to says 1 tank and its done thats what dhz and pitpro told me when i was asking about there bikes when i was in the market for a new 1

when i ran my dhz in i used the oil in it for about 1 hour then dropped it and changed to motul 20w40 $9.95 per ltr,i wasnt going easy on it but i wasnt goin hard i didnt do many quick bursts of throttle and im starting to think maybe thats why ive got a dead spot on full throttle cause i never set the piston and rings in proply but im not sure...so i would give it quick bursts of throttle in every gear and dont hit the rev limiter but rev it a little bit thats just what i did

every1 to there own

,cheers
 
id do what he said. but replace the new mineral oil that u put in it more then wunce! be4 u go semi synthetic for god sakes the engine needs some time to wear in with the mineral based befor u put in semi synthetic or its going to be shit for the engine cause it wont be ran in
 
ok heres what i would do that i have heard from lots people is how to run in your engine the good way so its all healthy. ok drain the oil that is in it out, (some people even say its super bad to use it on run in) then put in mineral based oil ,bout 15-40 should be good, do one to 2 tanks of fuel on that max then replace with same fresh mineral based oil and do about another 3 tanks of fuel then replace the oil for fresh stuff and then u can keep that in it for the rest of the run in, or untill u think it needs changing or when the engine is ready for semi synthetic ,witch would be affter the run in. and when running in give it lots short burst of throttle, but dont fully rev it out, so no long straights. so just like rip up your back yard or track.

ok yeh thats how i would run a new engine in for sure.
 
pmc.21 said:
do what who said?
Click to expand...

DO NOT DO WHAT SYDNEY SAID!
Don't use straight valvoline XLD it is way too thick especially for running in.
The right oil for these bikes is a 10w40 not a 20w50.

The oil in the bike is fine to run the bike on for the first hour or two,as long as there is enough in it.I ran that oil for running in then changed to the correct grade in a mineral oil from then on.Don't use full synthetic at all and its best not to use even semi-synthetic for about the first 5 or so oil changes just to make sure everything is settled in nicely.
Don't baby the bike at all during running in,if you do you will end up with a bit of a slug.
Get it warm ride it back and forth easy'ish a couple of times and check everything works properly and gears change fine.Then ride it pretty much like normal,reasonably hard but don't thrash it, just sort of use all the power but use it smoothly and dont hold it full open for too long at a time.
Once that's done do your first oil change then ride it as hard or as easy as you like.
Change oil after about every 3days riding for the first 3 or so changes then probably every 3-5days riding from there on and you'll have no problems.
 
i don't run in anything, just take out the china Oil replace it with good & ride it!!!!!! thats all you need to do all this other stuff is totaly unnessary.... i did'nt run in my 2004 CRF50 & she is sweet as a bird, all i do is let them idel for 5 - 10 mins then off ya go..

we did'nt even run in the 2008 YZ250 just rode it
 
agian with this topic

Hillz said:
i don't run in anything, just take out the china Oil replace it with good & ride it!!!!!! thats all you need to do all this other stuff is totaly unnessary.... i did'nt run in my 2004 CRF50 & she is sweet as a bird, all i do is let them idel for 5 - 10 mins then off ya go..

we did'nt even run in the 2008 YZ250 just rode it
Click to expand...

what he said ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
just ride the bloody thing put some good oil dunno take your pic of brand
i use the shell sx4 does a good job
ride the same oil for 3 tanks give or take the take it to a guru and get the valve clearances done because by the time you've put 3 tanks through it the will have closed up and your bike will be running like shit

then you change the oil and ride some more pretty hard ha

stop asking question and go hard have some fun

all these dudes that baby there engines have baby engines that as soon as they see a hard time they shit themselves then they come crying to us saying oough my lifan 140 is shit it only does this and i broke that

lifes tuff
 
I didn't think you were supposed to let it idle though..


the guys at honda world told me not to let it idle for too long, it says it in the manual too.


it even says it in the manual for my dads Ford XR6
 
Sidney said:
I didn't think you were supposed to let it idle though..
the guys at honda world told me not to let it idle for too long, it says it in the manual too.

it even says it in the manual for my dads Ford XR6
Click to expand...

thats becuase there air cooled engines head

like running in a deisel engine your not suposed to go over 3000rpm for the first 1000km's

my mates quacka road bike wasn't aloud over 6000 rpm for the first 600km's the not alound over 10,000rpm till 1800km's thats a way long run in period

but these things arn't precision machinery like the jap crap

so dont bother with the science the wingit thing hasn't done me wrong at all
 
Sidney said:
I didn't think you were supposed to let it idle though..


the guys at honda world told me not to let it idle for too long, it says it in the manual too.
Click to expand...

i always let mine idle to warm up (around 5mins).... kick it over, put my gloves on, finish my beer, kiss the baby & miss's, talk to the dogs then off ya go :D
 
Yeh I'd do what hillz said, ride like you usually do.

And yeh, with the 07 R1 for the first couple thousand k's once you exceed like 7,000 rpm a red light flashes...
 
hillz said it

Drop the shitty sewing machine oil out drop in something half good then ride it ,the rest of the clap trap is just that clap trap.
 
I used the oil it came with for the first tank of petrol..
Then changed over to 20w 50.. does anyone else use 20w 50? it seems fine with my bike.. and its made for 4 strokes!
 
To Quote from the usermanual that will come with most chinny bikes

Breaking in your Motorcycle
The first hour of operation on your new motorcycle is designated as it's "break in period".
Make sure you warm up the engine for afew minutes prior to operation.
During this period do not accelerate in a rapid manner.
Arfter one hour of easy rideing your new motorcycle will be ready for regular use thats what they say hehehe
 
yes and thats exactly what i did

zonkone i use motul 20w50 fine for me
 
I use motul 1000 cuase im still running it in sorta and its 20 w 50. Soo I will switch to motul 5100 which is 10 w 40
 
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