155/160 HO, no spark!

[AntNZ]

Hi guys, Was having issues with old c7hsa plug so i replaced with cr7hix irridium plug and solved the problem. I havn't started bike for at least a month now due to bad weather/work etc.

Went to ride it the other day and bike was really hard to start, once running it was idling really rough, it wouldn't rev off idle was just sort of blubbering and hesitating to rev at all.

I pulled carb off and gave it a good blow out with air compressor and put back on the bike. Now the bike would not start/fire at all!

Pulled plug out and it was fouled. cleaned plug and put back into the lead and earthed out on engine case and couldn't get it to spark.

I had spare brand new plug so did the same with that and still no spark!

I have read here somewhere that the cdi is unlikely to fail?

I havn't checked all the wires/connections yet but will do that later.
Bike has been sitting in shed since I washed it with pressure cleaner after last ride, could just be rusted connector maybe, although I doubt whether it would be something that simple.

If all connections are tight/clean what is next most likely thing to check?
When I started the first time and idled the hour meter went up 1/10 so am thinking that power is getting to plug?

Lost....... Please help!!

Thanks Craig......in advance. haha

 

[Trains]

If you have a multimeter you can determine where the fault is.
Normally i'd iscolate an electrical problem to three things.
Wiring
Coil
Stator
I'd go on fleabay and buy a new coil as stators normally take a while to die.

Sent from my HTC_0P6B6 using Tapatalk

 

[my67xr]

I am guessing that it just a simple thing like a corroded earth wire to the frame or coil, or that the kill switch has earthed out.
Try starting it with the kill switch disconnected from the main harness.
Is your coil earthed to meare metal on the frame somewhere ?
If not, clean the paint off with sandpaper and wipe a smear of grease over it to stop it from happening again then try it out.

Also unplug your wiring plug's socket's and check the terminal's all look clean.
If you buy some dielectric grease (also called bulb grease, silicon grease, or ignition grease) from a car part's place or auto electrician, it come's in a small tube or single use satchel, usually pretty cheap.
Smear a little on to each terminal in all the plug's/socket's etc, this help's to stop corrosion
Supercheap auto sell's it in a small pack for .47c

If the above fail's, then here's a thread that will help you test out the electrical system
You'll need a multimeter to test each componant out.
http://www.miniriders.com/electrica...urce-coil-pulse-coil-regulator-rectifier.html

 

[headsmess]

hour meter? wtf?

they never seem to have issues after gutting the stock electricals and rewiring so only the critical parts are left behind...being the CDI and the coil. then worry about other things like lights n stuff, knowing the ignition side is sorted.

the ignition is powered entirely by the engine itself, no external sources of power...so things like hourmeters are no indication that the ignition system is working.

use of new wire lets you know that all the wire is okie dokie. been caught out with fractured wires before... amazing how they test fine with multimeters but fail when being used... life truly sucks when faults are intermittent.

always start up and evaporate any water out of the thing after washing...washing...mygod...my bike has grass growing in its swingarm! last wash it got was a quick blast down a 2foot deep creek... oops. saltwater. bad idea... grass died

otherwise, all the usual checks... corrosion, good connections, good earth attachment point... only after all that has proven fruitless do you get a new CDI or magneto...