2008 Atomik Blitz 250 review
- Thread starter thump*140
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To be honest i dont know DVDrip... i've never tried it.. I doubt the difference would be quite as noticeable on a mini, as it was on the Blitz, as the stock blitz muffler is massive overkill for what is really a generator motor... it's a direct copy of a YZF muffler, which was designed with a motor in mind, that flows a hell of a lot harder than a Blitz engine... so it was strangling the Gen III... cut down, it's not overkill, and allows the motor to flow better, which aided in the top end gains...
As for minibike mufflers, generally they are about as free flowing as you can get... well, most of them are anyway... However, now you have me thinking, so i might try it with a "run of the mill" mini muffler and see how it goes...
But no, i dont imagine there would be much benefit with a pitty muffler... aside from extra volume...
As for minibike mufflers, generally they are about as free flowing as you can get... well, most of them are anyway... However, now you have me thinking, so i might try it with a "run of the mill" mini muffler and see how it goes...
But no, i dont imagine there would be much benefit with a pitty muffler... aside from extra volume...
rightio.. oko 26mm finally fitted today with a modified air intake (if you get one of these carbies for ur blitz make sure you take thump*140 advise and ask for an angled air filter pod, TRUST ME it aint fun tryin to fit the other type), after cranking it over until the battery died, i realised the cdi was left unpluged, pluged that back in and PRESTO, the bike actual started and idled ( never idled before with stock carby) as for the jetting, i took the plug off bottom of the bowl but couldnt get it out.. so with impatients and nearly at the end of my lunch break i just put it back together so i could hear the bike run properly for the first time. the box it came in says 36 pilot 100 main.
thump*
i did read ur thread on the oko's but didnt really sink in to me about the pilot, above you mention a 37-40 so im just wondering wat the 36 means to me in performance wise?? i get he point with the main. as for mine being the 100main and running a lil richer would proberly suit me a tad more as i tend to roll the throttle on and off. well i will be for the first few rides until i get used to 2 wheels again instead of 4
cheers
thump*
i did read ur thread on the oko's but didnt really sink in to me about the pilot, above you mention a 37-40 so im just wondering wat the 36 means to me in performance wise?? i get he point with the main. as for mine being the 100main and running a lil richer would proberly suit me a tad more as i tend to roll the throttle on and off. well i will be for the first few rides until i get used to 2 wheels again instead of 4
cheers
Ok synergy what the #k36 pilot *may* mean, is that you will be a little bit lean off idle... with the OKO, this usually translates to a sharp exhaust "Bark" if you crack the throttle off idle, and perhaps a bit of a crackle or pop... (No snap though... )
However, if it's idling well, and is responsive when you crack the throttle without popping, backfiring or hesitating, you may well be on the money with the jetting you have... I've found with the Gen III you dont spend a lot of time with the bike running on the pilot anyway, especially if you go with a 1/4 turn throttle... Performance wise, with a 36 pilot, you *should* have a very responsive and crisp bottom end.. which will tie in well with the general performance of the Gen III loncin motor...
Your main should be pretty right... a quick way to tell, is to warm the engine, and hold the throttle WIDE OPEN... not for ages, just long enough for it to hit redline, and stay there for half a second or so...
If the main jet is wrong, the OKO will tell you VERY quickly.... but by the sounds of it, it's pretty close anyways, mine is jetted VERY crisp, so a #100 should be bang on for general cruising, and as you said, a bit of on/off throttle...
)However, if it's idling well, and is responsive when you crack the throttle without popping, backfiring or hesitating, you may well be on the money with the jetting you have... I've found with the Gen III you dont spend a lot of time with the bike running on the pilot anyway, especially if you go with a 1/4 turn throttle... Performance wise, with a 36 pilot, you *should* have a very responsive and crisp bottom end.. which will tie in well with the general performance of the Gen III loncin motor...
Your main should be pretty right... a quick way to tell, is to warm the engine, and hold the throttle WIDE OPEN... not for ages, just long enough for it to hit redline, and stay there for half a second or so...
If the main jet is wrong, the OKO will tell you VERY quickly.... but by the sounds of it, it's pretty close anyways, mine is jetted VERY crisp, so a #100 should be bang on for general cruising, and as you said, a bit of on/off throttle...
dacoffee
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yer i had my bike less then a week and battery nearly dead, using a jump pack to keep it going, i did the naughty and got impatient and took it for a ride with the oil it came with but wasnt any more then 2k's and took it easy. draining it tomorrow and checked the plug and smells a bit rich so will have to change that before the next ride too. what suxs with the bike is there no reserve with them at least you know you nearly out.
which clutch lever works best with the kuda's? the factory models?
which clutch lever works best with the kuda's? the factory models?
Last edited:
Thanks thump* clearly understood with the jetting.
argh the problems dont end, i thought i would start it up 2day and check what happens if i crack the throttle to check for any hessitation, lag, backfire e.t.c. as to weather the pilot jet was correct and bugger me i crack the throttle and the cable came undone inside the carby. having a look at it there isnt really much stopping this from happening again, i know i hav read somewhere in here that im not the only one that has had this problem but after a bit of a search i cant find where i read it. so im wondering if i can re-fit the cable to the little white plastic bit under the spring and seal it in there with some selastic or maybe with a hot glue gun?? or if someone has read the other post i was hunting about this issue, could u direct me to it.
argh the problems dont end, i thought i would start it up 2day and check what happens if i crack the throttle to check for any hessitation, lag, backfire e.t.c. as to weather the pilot jet was correct and bugger me i crack the throttle and the cable came undone inside the carby. having a look at it there isnt really much stopping this from happening again, i know i hav read somewhere in here that im not the only one that has had this problem but after a bit of a search i cant find where i read it. so im wondering if i can re-fit the cable to the little white plastic bit under the spring and seal it in there with some selastic or maybe with a hot glue gun?? or if someone has read the other post i was hunting about this issue, could u direct me to it.
^^^ok mate this one is an easy fix... the little white collet that the cable slips into, is designed with a proper "Jap" style throttle cable in mind, with a bigger cable mushroom, so the cable end will always slip out if it's not contained... The easiest way i have found to fix it, is to find a small screw, and screw it into the hole in the collet (with the cable fitted) from the bottom... i'll get a pic of it tomorrow to show you what i mean.. but basically the screw then sits alongside the cable mushroom, and holds it in place... never had mine slip since i figured it out.... A screw from a car stereo body fits quite well.. short and wide... stay tuned for pics...
Oh, all the bling showed up tonight as well, so i'm adding that over the next couple of days, and will document any issues etc..
Oh, all the bling showed up tonight as well, so i'm adding that over the next couple of days, and will document any issues etc..
sean01
Legend Spanner Spinner
the white cable retaining piece does only go one way too.. if you have it round the wrong way it doesnt slide down as far...
ahh simple fix, i will get onto it 2morro.
new bling for the blitz hey?? cant wait to see this..
my front shocks turned up 2day aswell, will fit them 2morro and then off to the yammie shop for an axle and spacers.
thump* did u manage to get the bearings out the front wheel yet? i did find a press that is wide enough to accomadate the rim size but its bloody massive (like the size of a volkwagon beatle turned upright)
also hav u got the new bearings for the yammie axle with blitz rim? just curious on bearing number i u hav it handy? if not thats chill i will get the guys behind the counter at the store to sort it out.
new bling for the blitz hey?? cant wait to see this..
my front shocks turned up 2day aswell, will fit them 2morro and then off to the yammie shop for an axle and spacers.
thump* did u manage to get the bearings out the front wheel yet? i did find a press that is wide enough to accomadate the rim size but its bloody massive (like the size of a volkwagon beatle turned upright)
also hav u got the new bearings for the yammie axle with blitz rim? just curious on bearing number i u hav it handy? if not thats chill i will get the guys behind the counter at the store to sort it out.
i found it hard to get it back in aswell, makes it harder wen the spring bows out sidways.
i did notice the second time round of tryin to fit it that the side of the plastic retainer had a flat spot on it.
ahh simple fix, i will get onto it 2morro.
new bling for the blitz hey?? cant wait to see this..
my front shocks turned up 2day aswell, will fit them 2morro and then off to the yammie shop for an axle and spacers.
thump* did u manage to get the bearings out the front wheel yet? i did find a press that is wide enough to accomadate the rim size but its bloody massive (like the size of a volkwagon beatle turned upright)
also hav u got the new bearings for the yammie axle with blitz rim? just curious on bearing number i u hav it handy? if not thats chill i will get the guys behind the counter at the store to sort it out.
ah sweet, so yours is coming along as well...
as far as bling-nouveau goes, last night i bolted on a set of CNC footpegs, hydraulic clutch, fake Pro-taper bars, Black CNC bar clamps, Gold ASV copy levers, 1/8 turn Black billet throttle, Gold fuel cap, and a headlight, which so far has me scratching my ass in confusion with the wiring, as it comes with a switchblock that deletes the stock blitz starter and killswitches, and provides a headlight Hi/Lo beam switch.
Once i have the wiring sussed, i'll make up a diagram showing the correct wires to use, photos etc.. It's still in bits at present, but it's looking pretty sweet..
As for the wheel bearings, i've not been able to budge the f*****rs... they're in TIGHT... so i may need to look at someone with a press who can punch em out... (nudge nudge, wink wink... )
Now as for the bearings, DONT get em from Coast yam, or any yamaha dealer... I've replaced the YZF400 front wheel bearings before, and genuine yammie bearings will set you back about $40 per side... ie $80 for one wheel... i took my old ones to a car parts store, they were measured and replaced with identical items for $12 each...
I cant remember what number bearings they were, but they're a pretty common item... and if your down around the lonsdale area, i reckon it would be pretty easy to find a bearing shop.. and a hell of a lot cheaper than Genuine Yamaha items..
yeah there's a wee trick to getting the white plastic collet back into the slide... piece of piss really... poke the collet with cable and spring attached into the top of the slide, grab an allen key, bend the spring a little to the side, and using the allen key, push the collet all the way to the bottom of the slide. Simple!
oh, and by using a small screw to retain the cable in the collet, it "spreads" the collet a tiny bit, giving it a tighter fit in the slide, meaning less chance of the collet pulling out of the slide, especially if you're using a 1/4 or 1/8 turn throttle...
well that funny, my bearings poped out today just from the sight of the hammer
wen i get the new ones i will use my rim as a test pilot on the big press we have at one of our depots and if all goes well i will do urs for ya.
Now for my daily blitz bitch -anyone trying to fit the top tripple clamp off a '99 wr400f to there blitz, the coller on the lock nut for the headstem is 26mm and the size of the hole in the top tripple is 25mm, thus a mm has to go somewhere, after 5mins, 2 burnt thumbs and fingers on the bench grinder i got the coller down to 25.2mm. a little bit of sanding inside the top tripple made the other .2mm.
thump* the idea of the little screw in the carby worked a treat, if anyone else needs to do it, i found a M5 scew to fit perfectly (although some shortening of the screw would be required).
couldnt ya do away with the switch block and just run it off the battery, via fuse and relay and just mount a toggle switch for it? maybe in place of the crappy green nuetraul light. i plan to remove the momentry start/stop buttons off my habdle bars and just put a smaller momentry button in place of my nutraul light. just to tidy it up a bit.
ok got the headlight sorted... was both simple and bloody difficult... the wiring that comes with the light, makes no sense whatsoever when it comes to plugs... then i had to figure out what wire went where, and which one was meant to draw power etc...
So i parks the quad alongside, and copy the wiring... Everything works, the new switch block works fine with headlight, park light, hi and lo beams... killswitch works, as does the starter button... plus i still have the neutral light and key switch... it was a wee bitch sorting everything, but now i know how it;s done, i'll do up a wiring diagram for those who wish to Blitz in the dark...
Oh and yeah, my bearings really dont wanna come out... may take you up on your offer of pressing mine out... starting to wonder if mine are oversize or something... Yes, the YZF wheel fits in there fine, but i want the shiny new blitz rim, and that massive bastard front rotor, and my blitz caliper is actually better than the YZF one... which is shagged...
Thing is nearly completed bling wise, just need to weld in some stops on the billet pegs, carve the bar pad, and see if the hydraulic clutch is working... fingers crossed...
got a day off on saturday, so will post the next round of pics then.
So i parks the quad alongside, and copy the wiring... Everything works, the new switch block works fine with headlight, park light, hi and lo beams... killswitch works, as does the starter button... plus i still have the neutral light and key switch... it was a wee bitch sorting everything, but now i know how it;s done, i'll do up a wiring diagram for those who wish to Blitz in the dark...
Oh and yeah, my bearings really dont wanna come out... may take you up on your offer of pressing mine out... starting to wonder if mine are oversize or something... Yes, the YZF wheel fits in there fine, but i want the shiny new blitz rim, and that massive bastard front rotor, and my blitz caliper is actually better than the YZF one... which is shagged...
Thing is nearly completed bling wise, just need to weld in some stops on the billet pegs, carve the bar pad, and see if the hydraulic clutch is working... fingers crossed...
got a day off on saturday, so will post the next round of pics then.
Welcome Retrac. Yeah the Mikilon M96 is the same bike. Have a feeling the M96 may be a slightly better quality bike than the Atomik version, but yeah, identical in most respects.
As for why the 26mm? The 30mm fake Mikuni Pumper carby fitted to the M96 is a terrible carby. The idea behind it is good, ie: give it a throttle pump to assist in bottom end response, which it does, but that's the only selling point of the carby. It's capacity for Hi-rev performance is terrible, and contributes greatly to the poor performance of the standard Loncin Gen III engine. The other thing with the Mikuni "30mm" carby, is that they have a true internal throat diameter of 26mm, so essentially they are the same throat venturi diameter as the OKO 26mm...
However, the reason behind the use of the OKO 26mm Flatslide is it's proven performance capabilities, and it's ease of tune, and in my experience, long term reliability. I've never had a Mikuni copy carby "stay seated" so to speak in regards to it's tune... It will work fine one week, terrible the next. All of my OKO's have never changed their tune, once they've been jetted.
The flow dynamics of the OKO Flatslides work much better than the Mikuni copies, and they offer a far more "competetive" power delivery. Bottom end response is much the same as the mikuni, but with a much stronger mid-range, that builds into a surging top end. With no other mod to the motor, it offers a marked performance increase, but when tied in with ignition and Muffler modification, it REALLY brings the Loncin Gen III alive, and going by the "bum-on-the-seat" dyno, at a guess just the OKO and muffler mod are good for about a 5hp increase in overall power, with a lot more of being in the top end...
If you are still running the stock carby on yours, and want a bit more sting from the motor, try a 26mm OKO, and you'll never look back... May want to follow the instructions in fitting one (outlined a few pages back in this thread) to the M96 though, as it's a very squeezy proposition, but between a few of us Blitz fanatics have found the simplest way of doing it.
Yeah the Mikilon M96 is the same bike. Have a feeling the M96 may be a slightly better quality bike than the Atomik version, but yeah, identical in most respects.As for why the 26mm? The 30mm fake Mikuni Pumper carby fitted to the M96 is a terrible carby. The idea behind it is good, ie: give it a throttle pump to assist in bottom end response, which it does, but that's the only selling point of the carby. It's capacity for Hi-rev performance is terrible, and contributes greatly to the poor performance of the standard Loncin Gen III engine. The other thing with the Mikuni "30mm" carby, is that they have a true internal throat diameter of 26mm, so essentially they are the same throat venturi diameter as the OKO 26mm...
However, the reason behind the use of the OKO 26mm Flatslide is it's proven performance capabilities, and it's ease of tune, and in my experience, long term reliability. I've never had a Mikuni copy carby "stay seated" so to speak in regards to it's tune... It will work fine one week, terrible the next. All of my OKO's have never changed their tune, once they've been jetted.
The flow dynamics of the OKO Flatslides work much better than the Mikuni copies, and they offer a far more "competetive" power delivery. Bottom end response is much the same as the mikuni, but with a much stronger mid-range, that builds into a surging top end. With no other mod to the motor, it offers a marked performance increase, but when tied in with ignition and Muffler modification, it REALLY brings the Loncin Gen III alive, and going by the "bum-on-the-seat" dyno, at a guess just the OKO and muffler mod are good for about a 5hp increase in overall power, with a lot more of being in the top end...
If you are still running the stock carby on yours, and want a bit more sting from the motor, try a 26mm OKO, and you'll never look back... May want to follow the instructions in fitting one (outlined a few pages back in this thread) to the M96 though, as it's a very squeezy proposition, but between a few of us Blitz fanatics have found the simplest way of doing it.
Welcome Retrac.
As for why the 26mm? The 30mm fake Mikuni Pumper carby fitted to the M96 is a terrible carby. The idea behind it is good, ie: give it a throttle pump to assist in bottom end response, which it does, but that's the only selling point of the carby. It's capacity for Hi-rev performance is terrible, and contributes greatly to the poor performance of the standard Loncin Gen III engine. The other thing with the Mikuni "30mm" carby, is that they have a true internal throat diameter of 26mm, so essentially they are the same throat venturi diameter as the OKO 26mm...
However, the reason behind the use of the OKO 26mm Flatslide is it's proven performance capabilities, and it's ease of tune, and in my experience, long term reliability. I've never had a Mikuni copy carby "stay seated" so to speak in regards to it's tune... It will work fine one week, terrible the next. All of my OKO's have never changed their tune, once they've been jetted.
The flow dynamics of the OKO Flatslides work much better than the Mikuni copies, and they offer a far more "competetive" power delivery. Bottom end response is much the same as the mikuni, but with a much stronger mid-range, that builds into a surging top end. With no other mod to the motor, it offers a marked performance increase, but when tied in with ignition and Muffler modification, it REALLY brings the Loncin Gen III alive, and going by the "bum-on-the-seat" dyno, at a guess just the OKO and muffler mod are good for about a 5hp increase in overall power, with a lot more of being in the top end...
If you are still running the stock carby on yours, and want a bit more sting from the motor, try a 26mm OKO, and you'll never look back... May want to follow the instructions in fitting one (outlined a few pages back in this thread) to the M96 though, as it's a very squeezy proposition, but between a few of us Blitz fanatics have found the simplest way of doing it.
thanks for that,allredy have casoli race cdi,the exhaust is very different over here it has a cat in the rear silencer which i have removed,its now straight through,i have purchased a new front pipe again straight through,modified the air box ,fitted alloy talon rear sprocket ,the whole bike has been stripped and rebuilt using stainless nuts and bolts exept stress areas,lots of silicone waterproof greese all spacers have been machined from alloy,trying to attach some pics ?
yeah you'll need to use photobucket or image shack to link photos in this forum mate...
upload your pics to photobukcet or similar, then link them into your posts.. pretty easy.
This Talon sprocket you are using... Can you tell us from what model bike it was designed for ? eg XR250, YZ125 or whatever? I'm wanting to get some taller gearing for mine, but dont feel like trawling around for ages trying to figure out what stud pattern the rear sprocket requires, when the answer is already known by someone else...
Sounds like you've made a pretty solid bike there out of yours, looking forward to seeing the pics, and seeing if there are any differences between ours and yours... We cant legally register a Blitz over here... i actually thought Registration Legislation was quite a bit tougher in the UK, but perhaps thats not the case...
upload your pics to photobukcet or similar, then link them into your posts.. pretty easy.
This Talon sprocket you are using... Can you tell us from what model bike it was designed for ? eg XR250, YZ125 or whatever? I'm wanting to get some taller gearing for mine, but dont feel like trawling around for ages trying to figure out what stud pattern the rear sprocket requires, when the answer is already known by someone else...
Sounds like you've made a pretty solid bike there out of yours, looking forward to seeing the pics, and seeing if there are any differences between ours and yours... We cant legally register a Blitz over here... i actually thought Registration Legislation was quite a bit tougher in the UK, but perhaps thats not the case...
