2008 atomik reign bigfoot 150 starting issues

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ant17

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hi guys i am new to this forum my name is anthony and i have a atomik reign bigfoot 150 but when i try to kick start it kicksback and bacfires through the carby without starting does anyone know what might be causing it has been sitting around for a while but i have checked the spark plug the gap right for the manual change fuel and drained out the old ignition timing was checked with a timing light its firing every time it eaches the (T) timing mark on the flywheel which i belive is top dead centre i could be wrong if anyone can help i would be greatful
 
Welcome to Minirider's,

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You might need to check the valve to rocker clearance's.
Set the inlet to .003" and the exhaust to .004"
If the valve's don't have any clearance then it will backfire through the carby.

And you also need to have the cam gear cover off the left side of the head when checking the timing, to make sure the cam gear marking is lined up correctly at 9 o'clock too.

And i would replace the spark plug with a genuine NGK C7HSA too just to make sure the spark is good.

[video=youtube;QJciyJRJh8Q]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJciyJRJh8Q[/video]


Cheer's, Craig
 
Are you getting the piston to just past Top Dead Centre before you kick it? If not it can kick back and possibly do damage to you or your cases.
 
hi i don't know what clearences are for inlet and outlet valve but there is clearence i have not checked behind the the cam gear cover may to check these as suggested if the valve timing was out how could that happen if its on a chain
 
Have you had the rocker cover's off and felt that there is clearance between the rocker arm and valve ?

There are lot's of reason's the timing could be out, sometime's in rare case's they are out by 1 tooth or more from the factory.
Also a worn timing chain or idler roller etc can let the chain jump a tooth or 2

Do you know if the head ever been off the engine?
Has it had a new piston or ring's at any stage?
How many hour's has the engine done ?

I have listed the valve to rocker clearance's in my post above, and put up a video explaining how to do it as well.

And the spark should be firing just before TDC too, but it happen's so fast you may not pick it.

Is the tip of the spark plug getting wet with fuel when kicking it over ?
Do you have an oiled foam air filter on the carby ?
Have you tried using the choke?
What setting is your mixture screw at ?


How do you go about trying to start it like Motodevo asked ?
 
hi i have not yet checked these things but are about to thanks for the info
 
I'm also having trouble getting my 50cc pitpro started.
It was running great after just adjusting the valve clearance then after my daughter rode the bike through a deep puddle it stopped starting.
It had a weak spark then it stopped sparking all together I replaced the CDI unit and the coil
Now I have good spark but the bike still will not start with or without choke.
And each time I try to start it I check the plug and it's wet!
I blow it dry and check the spark and it good.
Any ideas?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
hi sorry i took so long to get back to you as i had family i ssues i will start again i have checked valve clearences rockers stil got strong compression but i had trouble getting it started no matter how many times kick it over but by measuring the ac voltage from my outer rotor kit magneto using a 8 pin cdi the voltage coming out of thr magneto to be to low to either fire cdi or induce a spark in the coil which is not visble in open air the voltage coming from the magneto is only about 9vac i was thinking i should probly get another magneto but being a atomik regn bigfoot 150 2008 model i don't what is the correct magnetor for the bike but i am open suggestion from you guys thanks to everybody to is paient
 
Have you tried a new sparkplug yet as suggested? sometimes youll think a plug is good as you can see a spark but the compression will blow it out when its in the bike?

If your going to replace the magneto id just buy a whole new outer rotor kit for the bike and then you know its all new and will work as it should.
 
my atomik

hi i have tried a new plug but didn't make a diffrence i also have measured the sator winding at about 10 ohms and the other at 131.6 but it still does not give me the right output the magneto and if i buy another outer rotor kit how do i know its not going to do the same thing

QUOTE=liljohn_92;481757]Have you tried a new sparkplug yet as suggested? sometimes youll think a plug is good as you can see a spark but the compression will blow it out when its in the bike?

If your going to replace the magneto id just buy a whole new outer rotor kit for the bike and then you know its all new and will work as it should.[/QUOTE]
 
if you buy all new electrics for the bike then you know there not going to be a problem anymore. if the timing is lined up, valves have clearance and you have fuel then theres only electrics left to be a problem.
 
my atomik

i agree but i don't know what new electrics to buy and for what make of engine sumbody could help i would be greatful
if you buy all new electrics for the bike then you know there not going to be a problem anymore. if the timing is lined up, valves have clearance and you have fuel then theres only electrics left to be a problem.
 
So your stator is ok going by the reading's.

Pull apart all your wiring connection's and check there is any corrosion on them, spray them with CRC or WD40 and reconnect them.
Have you checked that there is a good earth to the frame from the main loom (green wire) ?
Have you checked that the ignition coil is mounted to the frame onto clean bare metal ? (some grease on the metal with stop it rusting)
Have you measured the primary and secondary reading's on your ignition coil ?
To test the primary side, put your lead's from meter (set to 200 Ohm's) across the power in terminal and the coil earth, it should read around .5 Ohm's
To test the secondary side, unscrew your spark plug cap off the end of the coil lead, set your meter to 20,000 Ohm's (20K Ohm's) and measure from the power in terminal on the coil and the other lead goes into the end of the spark plug lead, it should measure around 5000 Ohm's 5K Ohm's
SOmetime's if you have no reading here you can trim back your coil lead about 25mm and try it again, the copper wire through the middle can break.
Have you checked the resistance through your spark plug cap ? (5K, 5000 Ohms)

Also on some Lifan 150 i've worked on check the wiring where it goes into the back of the plug that plug's into the cdi, sometime's the wire's come out the back causing a bad contact or no contact at all.


This is the complete stator, flywheel, cdi, loom, and ignition coil set for a Lifan 150
You'll need a flywheel puller to remove the flywheel too.
Mini Bikes | Pit Bikes | Dirt Bikes | Mini Moto | Parts & Accessories | DHZ | Buy Online
Performance Racing Magneto Stator Rotor KIT Dirt Bike LF Lifan 140 150cc CDI | eBay
 
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hi both of them seem to be the same as what i already have which is new but all i can think of is that outer rotor kit is not compatible with my bike what sort of ac voltages do you guys get out of your magneto
 
If you are measuring it when kicking it over (not running) then that voltage is fine, usually get between 6v and 8v
 
outer rotor kits are compatible with all the motors.. if yours is already new go through the wiring and make sure its all connected correctly and make sure there actually connecting. no idea what my stator reads and i smashed my multimeter last week so cant check at the moment. i could check what wires are connected where if thatll help you
 
atomik 150

i have heard that from tboltusa of 50 to 100vac and some people say 20 to 30vac just by kicking it
outer rotor kits are compatible with all the motors.. if yours is already new go through the wiring and make sure its all connected correctly and make sure there actually connecting. no idea what my stator reads and i smashed my multimeter last week so cant check at the moment. i could check what wires are connected where if thatll help you
 
i have no idea about vac/ohms readings form the stators...

can you take some pics of your wiring so i can see if its wired same as mine if the wire colours are the same...
 

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