4stroke hard to start

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sniper

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I have had my atomik reign 150cc for 2 weeks now and it is a real prick to start.It has very bad kickback,but im told this is just what the 4 stroke yx 150cc engines are like.Anyway,when starting the engine cold it takes about 2 minutes of kick starting and gets really annoying.

After it has started it rides fine but if i turn the engine off or stall it,i cannot get it started again unless i wait about 15minutes and then sometimes that even takes just as long to start.

Oil has been changed 3 times since new,im using clean fuel.What could be the problem here as im just sooo sick of kicking it over so many times to get it to start and because of the painfull kickback its taking a toll on my ankle.
 
bump start (push start) it in the meantime, this will stop the kick back as there is to much momentum for it to kick back.

get a decomp if you want.

the CDI i think is responsible for some of the kick back on these engines. the advance settings are straight out of china and who knows what they are set at. i used one of these atomik's not long ago and yeah the kick back is bad.

the bike could be running to hot if its not starting after being run for a while. (not sure though)
 
yea bro i got the same problem with my yx160 apparantally a decomp cam kit will fix the kick back problem(so iv heard) correct me if im wrong....... but my kick back is killa !!!
check your valve clearances mine where way off!!!
actually had a loose tappet adjusting screw(with a stripped thread)
and the exh. valve was set to lyke .002 there way out from factory!!!
cheers kaino!!
 
Yeh i want to do the valve clearences today.All should be set to 0.5mm right?The only thing is how do i get the circle shaped cover part of?The top and bottom tappet covers come off easily by undoing the bolts but the other one its lick i have to pry it open with a hammer and flat head sscrewdriver.Is there an easier way to get it off without denting it or making a mess of it?
 
.002 and .003 bro watch out bro i have done a lot of fastners up in my tyme but i still managed 2 strip 3 of 4 of the cam cover studs.... Um bolt it all and all the covers should lift off you are working on ur head so make sure ur bike is clean ie nothing falling into ur head while i was there i replaced the camcover studs to stainless hex head bolts
 
You only need to take the tappet covers off to set the clearances.
Its a bit of a bit$h to get the feelers in there but its better than taking off the rocker cover and having to put on a new gasket.
 
But u gotta get it to tdc with the timing marks on the rotor and the cam sprocket
 
Mmm but that bottom end compression is a bi*** the crank wont stay in 1 spot
and it dont sound lyke he has done it before.....
 
Pull the spark plug out, flywheel cover and cam cover off so you can crank the engine over with you hand on the flywheel.
Makes it much easier and there is no compression to make the engine move all around when setting the clearances.
 
Mmm thats how i do it..... thats how i did mine yesterday but i ended having to wedge somthing between the rotor ant the top of the case to keep it in 1 spot
 
In this picture the red arrow is pointing to the cover im not sure how to take off.
 

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there is a bolt on the exact opposite side of the engine head that runs all the way through and holds that on from the inside.

Does that make sense?
 
lol i had a mate that got it undone with a hammer and a chizel lol !!!!!!
 
.003 and .004 for tappet clearances.

the lastest batch of atomik bikes have had bad kickback issues.. im guessing they have changed the cdi or the carb setup

do yourself a favor and buy a lifan outer rotor kit..then you can dial the timing in so it starts easier
 
Ok ok so now i have been told two different clearences .002 and .003 and have also been told .003 and .004 in these replies.
So which is it?
 

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