rastus
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- Sep 15, 2009
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Hey guys,
As quite a few of you know I bought the little bloke an Atomik MX70SA.
Got it on Monday and finally got around to putting it together today.(Saturday).
As it doesn't have any info for assembly I thought it benificial to put it here to help out others with the same bike. Others may be similar in assembly in the Atomik range.
Well first off it comes in a steel 2 piece crate with a big cardboard box around it. Just fitted in the back of the missus dual cab navara to get it home with the canopy on. The canopy will have to come off now to take the bike out.
The handlebars are already wired and wrapped in bubble wrap alongside the bike,the battery is cable tied in a box to the cradle with the electrolyte pack seperate(we'll get to that later) and the front wheel is wired to the cradle also. The bike comes with a typical china toolkit (stuff all and nasty looking) in a little black Atomik zip up case along with an owners manual but no intsruction manual for assembly. There is a brown A4 cardboard box. This contains the plastic packs for assembly,the manual and the toolkit.
Ok lets get the toolkit out.
First things first we rip the cardboard box and the bubble wrap off. Mitchell (my little bloke had already done that as he has been cleaning the bike morning and night and making sure it's ok and no one is gunna nick it dad....) Well we got dogs here on the property and they sure as hell aint' gunna nick it dad...
Next grab the side cutters,
Cut the wire holding the front wheel to the cradle and remove the wheel,then get the front mudguard out that is sitting over the back wheel and put it aside. Next we see the battery in a little white cardboard box underneath where we just removed the front wheel. Cut the cableties on that and put it aside also.Now we also have cable ties holding in the footpegs. Cut them off also. Ok now to take the frame off.
The frame as I said is a 2 piece ,with a lower cradle holding the rear of the bike and the front forks.Get a phillips head and a flat blade screwy and a 10 mm spanner and undo all the bolts on the bottom of the top half of the frame to the base frame.Now on the right hand side there is a bracket coming up from the bottom to behind the right footpeg. Unbolt that and discard it.Also a bracket holds the headstem to the top frame.Unbolt that and throw it too.Now comes the tricky part. Lift the frame off and throw it. The bike is now sitting on the base frame and mounted at the front only by the front wheel collar bolt.
This is where it got interesting. I thought HMM? how we going to lift that off the frame and unbolt it without the bike falling over? Solution: rope around the headstem and up to the beam in my garage and lift it up(watch the wiring at the headstem though).Job done, unbolt the front fork bolt,Go to the back of the bike, lift the rear of the bike by hand under the frame under the back guard and kick the cradle out of the way.
Ok go grab the front wheel now. There is a black plastic spacer put in between the front pads to keep them apart and for them to not close during transit so the disc rotor will go in between them on assembly. Pull the spacer out and send it to the gods. Now that front axle we just pulled out.We got the axle and 2 collars on it. Slide the collars off the axle.Push a collar into the wheel at the bearing on each side and make sure it is home. Offer the wheel up to the forks and slide the disc in between the pads,push the axle bolt in and tighten. Ok front wheel done now.
Rear shock now and engine breather pipe now...
In a plastic bag you get in the assembly box is a bag with a nut and bolt in it about 40mm long. This same bag also contains the peg for the rear brake with an allen bolt.
Go to the rhs of the bike with the allen key and bolt the brake peg on.Before you lift the back of the bike to attach the rear lower shock mount on the lhs under the carb is a warning tag. Read the tag and cut the cable ties that are folding the engine breather pipe over.Rip the tag(but don,t cut the hose) off too while your there.DON'T CUT THE HOSE.Now in front of the swingarm where it goes to the frame unfold the pipe you just cut the cabble ties off when it was folded and feed it down through the bracket. I had to put a thin screwdriver in there to push it into the bracket. When it is through put your hand up under the swingarm at the front and pull it down through the bracket so it sits below the front of the swingarm.Now grab the rear lower shock bolt out of that bag, lift the back of the bike by hand(remember she's held by the rope at the front now and swinging in the breeze so she won't fall over) and wiggle and jiggle the back of the bike and push the bolt in from the rhs. If you try the lhs the chain and chain cover are in the way. Ok the bolt is in now, screw the nut in on the left hand side, hold with spanner on nut ,get the socket and extension in between the swingarm and rear brake line rhs and crank that sucker down.
Ok now we can put the sidestand down and lower the bike.The bikes down now and sitting pretty well.Next the handlebars.The handlebars are already wired and the throttle cable is set. Grab the plastic bag that contains the headstem brackets and bolts. Get rid of the plastic bubble wrap on the handlebars and fold them up to sit at the front of the bike. Grab the plastic bag and get out the stem brackets. Pretty easy to fit this. Wrap the collar around the handlebars one at a time and slide bolts down into triple clamp and run nuts on then tighten. I got Mitchell to sit on the bike whilst I tightened the headstem bolts and adjusted it to his preference.Then clip the brake line from the front into the 2 supplied clips on the bike on the left fork and lower triple clamp and squeeze together with your fingers to make sure the front line stays in.The igniton/brake cut off wire from the front brake lever was not connected on mine. This prevents the kids from starting in gear. The striped wire goes to the front pin on the front brake lever and the black(ground) goes to the rear one as viewed from sitting on the bike. Same as the gearshift lever which comes in another bag. Get him/her to tell you where it feels good,adjust as needed with the bolt out then put the bolt in and tighten the shift lever on the lhs with a 10mm spanner.I cable tied the wires to the bars. But make sure you are not strecthing the wires from lock to lock. Adjust as needed.
Ok now the front mudguard.When we get the bike in the crate the front raceplate is hanging by an allen bolt on the headstem. Under the lower triple clamp are three allen bolts screwed in lighty. Unscrew these and put them aside. Unscrew the allen key that holds the front race plate to the head stem assembly.Let's grab the front mudguard.The allen bolts are 6mm I think.Grab that front mudguard and offer it up to the lower triple clamp bolt at the front. Run the bolt up and with the long end of the allen key run the rear 2 allen bolts in a few turns. Now grab the front raceplate and hold it horizontal to the front mudguard and screw the front bolt up between the guard and the race plate a few turns. Now bend the front raceplate up to the headstem,centralise it and tighten the top bolt. Now go under the front mudguard and tighten all 3 allen key bolts up.
Fuel cap,
Very easy. Another plastic bag. Rip it open. screw on fuel cap and push the little breather pipe on top. It is about 2 inches long with a little silver anodised cap on top.
Time to grab all the sockets and spanners and go over everything. I didn't find anything loose.
Ok now the battery. The worst thing to fit.
When you read the destructions it is pretty simple to get it going. As I said before the battery is in a cardboard box with the acid and the bolts for the terminals. Read the instructions supplied it is not hard. You take the battery out of the cardboard box and you will find a foil terminal over it. You get the acid pack out and do what the instructions say. PLEASE WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN PLAYING WITH ACID, I DON'T MEAN SUNNYS I MEAN SAFETY GLASSES. I had to whack my pack down to get it to empty with the palm of my hand to break the foil seals and squeeze with my fingers to get it to fill. After the battery had drank all it's acid and I fitted the cap that covers the acid pack. Now to fit it.
This was a bugger. Another plastic bag with the battery nuts and bolts in it.
The battery is up under the front of the fuel tank behind the triple clamp. Near the carby intake.. It is a 6mm allen key for the 3 bolts for the battery holder.I had to loosen mine right of to fit it and bend the side brackets down. I emailed Atomik about this problem too.I got my pliers and bent down the lhs battery case bracket that faces upward to thew horizontal so I could get the thing in. Put the battery in with the positive to the rhs of the bike facing rearwards. You will see the battery leads favour the negative to the lhs as it is very short. I had to tap my battery in to get it fit with the palm of my hand. Face the negative battery terminal and the positive rearwards along the line of the bike. The positive has the fuse in it and it was easier to get from the top of the motor instead of under the front triple clamp.The bolts you get are very short with the nuts supplied.Very patiently hold the terminal on the top of the battery with your fingers and use a bit of nouse and screw it down to pick up the thread and it will pick it up and screw it down.(8mm). Slide the nut in the same as said and do same.After the battery was fitted I bent the bracket back up as I did before and tapped it with my hammer to fit it back into place. I was a bit concerned as I would have rather had put some rubber under the battery to insulate but there is no way I could have fitted it into the bracket. I am going to fabricate another bracket for the battery when I can.
First bang it went and he's off.
As quite a few of you know I bought the little bloke an Atomik MX70SA.
Got it on Monday and finally got around to putting it together today.(Saturday).
As it doesn't have any info for assembly I thought it benificial to put it here to help out others with the same bike. Others may be similar in assembly in the Atomik range.
Well first off it comes in a steel 2 piece crate with a big cardboard box around it. Just fitted in the back of the missus dual cab navara to get it home with the canopy on. The canopy will have to come off now to take the bike out.
The handlebars are already wired and wrapped in bubble wrap alongside the bike,the battery is cable tied in a box to the cradle with the electrolyte pack seperate(we'll get to that later) and the front wheel is wired to the cradle also. The bike comes with a typical china toolkit (stuff all and nasty looking) in a little black Atomik zip up case along with an owners manual but no intsruction manual for assembly. There is a brown A4 cardboard box. This contains the plastic packs for assembly,the manual and the toolkit.
Ok lets get the toolkit out.
First things first we rip the cardboard box and the bubble wrap off. Mitchell (my little bloke had already done that as he has been cleaning the bike morning and night and making sure it's ok and no one is gunna nick it dad....) Well we got dogs here on the property and they sure as hell aint' gunna nick it dad...
Next grab the side cutters,
Cut the wire holding the front wheel to the cradle and remove the wheel,then get the front mudguard out that is sitting over the back wheel and put it aside. Next we see the battery in a little white cardboard box underneath where we just removed the front wheel. Cut the cableties on that and put it aside also.Now we also have cable ties holding in the footpegs. Cut them off also. Ok now to take the frame off.
The frame as I said is a 2 piece ,with a lower cradle holding the rear of the bike and the front forks.Get a phillips head and a flat blade screwy and a 10 mm spanner and undo all the bolts on the bottom of the top half of the frame to the base frame.Now on the right hand side there is a bracket coming up from the bottom to behind the right footpeg. Unbolt that and discard it.Also a bracket holds the headstem to the top frame.Unbolt that and throw it too.Now comes the tricky part. Lift the frame off and throw it. The bike is now sitting on the base frame and mounted at the front only by the front wheel collar bolt.
This is where it got interesting. I thought HMM? how we going to lift that off the frame and unbolt it without the bike falling over? Solution: rope around the headstem and up to the beam in my garage and lift it up(watch the wiring at the headstem though).Job done, unbolt the front fork bolt,Go to the back of the bike, lift the rear of the bike by hand under the frame under the back guard and kick the cradle out of the way.
Ok go grab the front wheel now. There is a black plastic spacer put in between the front pads to keep them apart and for them to not close during transit so the disc rotor will go in between them on assembly. Pull the spacer out and send it to the gods. Now that front axle we just pulled out.We got the axle and 2 collars on it. Slide the collars off the axle.Push a collar into the wheel at the bearing on each side and make sure it is home. Offer the wheel up to the forks and slide the disc in between the pads,push the axle bolt in and tighten. Ok front wheel done now.
Rear shock now and engine breather pipe now...
In a plastic bag you get in the assembly box is a bag with a nut and bolt in it about 40mm long. This same bag also contains the peg for the rear brake with an allen bolt.
Go to the rhs of the bike with the allen key and bolt the brake peg on.Before you lift the back of the bike to attach the rear lower shock mount on the lhs under the carb is a warning tag. Read the tag and cut the cable ties that are folding the engine breather pipe over.Rip the tag(but don,t cut the hose) off too while your there.DON'T CUT THE HOSE.Now in front of the swingarm where it goes to the frame unfold the pipe you just cut the cabble ties off when it was folded and feed it down through the bracket. I had to put a thin screwdriver in there to push it into the bracket. When it is through put your hand up under the swingarm at the front and pull it down through the bracket so it sits below the front of the swingarm.Now grab the rear lower shock bolt out of that bag, lift the back of the bike by hand(remember she's held by the rope at the front now and swinging in the breeze so she won't fall over) and wiggle and jiggle the back of the bike and push the bolt in from the rhs. If you try the lhs the chain and chain cover are in the way. Ok the bolt is in now, screw the nut in on the left hand side, hold with spanner on nut ,get the socket and extension in between the swingarm and rear brake line rhs and crank that sucker down.
Ok now we can put the sidestand down and lower the bike.The bikes down now and sitting pretty well.Next the handlebars.The handlebars are already wired and the throttle cable is set. Grab the plastic bag that contains the headstem brackets and bolts. Get rid of the plastic bubble wrap on the handlebars and fold them up to sit at the front of the bike. Grab the plastic bag and get out the stem brackets. Pretty easy to fit this. Wrap the collar around the handlebars one at a time and slide bolts down into triple clamp and run nuts on then tighten. I got Mitchell to sit on the bike whilst I tightened the headstem bolts and adjusted it to his preference.Then clip the brake line from the front into the 2 supplied clips on the bike on the left fork and lower triple clamp and squeeze together with your fingers to make sure the front line stays in.The igniton/brake cut off wire from the front brake lever was not connected on mine. This prevents the kids from starting in gear. The striped wire goes to the front pin on the front brake lever and the black(ground) goes to the rear one as viewed from sitting on the bike. Same as the gearshift lever which comes in another bag. Get him/her to tell you where it feels good,adjust as needed with the bolt out then put the bolt in and tighten the shift lever on the lhs with a 10mm spanner.I cable tied the wires to the bars. But make sure you are not strecthing the wires from lock to lock. Adjust as needed.
Ok now the front mudguard.When we get the bike in the crate the front raceplate is hanging by an allen bolt on the headstem. Under the lower triple clamp are three allen bolts screwed in lighty. Unscrew these and put them aside. Unscrew the allen key that holds the front race plate to the head stem assembly.Let's grab the front mudguard.The allen bolts are 6mm I think.Grab that front mudguard and offer it up to the lower triple clamp bolt at the front. Run the bolt up and with the long end of the allen key run the rear 2 allen bolts in a few turns. Now grab the front raceplate and hold it horizontal to the front mudguard and screw the front bolt up between the guard and the race plate a few turns. Now bend the front raceplate up to the headstem,centralise it and tighten the top bolt. Now go under the front mudguard and tighten all 3 allen key bolts up.
Fuel cap,
Very easy. Another plastic bag. Rip it open. screw on fuel cap and push the little breather pipe on top. It is about 2 inches long with a little silver anodised cap on top.
Time to grab all the sockets and spanners and go over everything. I didn't find anything loose.
Ok now the battery. The worst thing to fit.
When you read the destructions it is pretty simple to get it going. As I said before the battery is in a cardboard box with the acid and the bolts for the terminals. Read the instructions supplied it is not hard. You take the battery out of the cardboard box and you will find a foil terminal over it. You get the acid pack out and do what the instructions say. PLEASE WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN PLAYING WITH ACID, I DON'T MEAN SUNNYS I MEAN SAFETY GLASSES. I had to whack my pack down to get it to empty with the palm of my hand to break the foil seals and squeeze with my fingers to get it to fill. After the battery had drank all it's acid and I fitted the cap that covers the acid pack. Now to fit it.
This was a bugger. Another plastic bag with the battery nuts and bolts in it.
The battery is up under the front of the fuel tank behind the triple clamp. Near the carby intake.. It is a 6mm allen key for the 3 bolts for the battery holder.I had to loosen mine right of to fit it and bend the side brackets down. I emailed Atomik about this problem too.I got my pliers and bent down the lhs battery case bracket that faces upward to thew horizontal so I could get the thing in. Put the battery in with the positive to the rhs of the bike facing rearwards. You will see the battery leads favour the negative to the lhs as it is very short. I had to tap my battery in to get it fit with the palm of my hand. Face the negative battery terminal and the positive rearwards along the line of the bike. The positive has the fuse in it and it was easier to get from the top of the motor instead of under the front triple clamp.The bolts you get are very short with the nuts supplied.Very patiently hold the terminal on the top of the battery with your fingers and use a bit of nouse and screw it down to pick up the thread and it will pick it up and screw it down.(8mm). Slide the nut in the same as said and do same.After the battery was fitted I bent the bracket back up as I did before and tapped it with my hammer to fit it back into place. I was a bit concerned as I would have rather had put some rubber under the battery to insulate but there is no way I could have fitted it into the bracket. I am going to fabricate another bracket for the battery when I can.
First bang it went and he's off.
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