black lifan 125 engine that is in a pitpro 125 rr

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andrewmitchell123

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hi, i here a lot on here about the black lifan engines burning oil a lot and i was wondering if it is that bad that they are not worth getting. do they do it as soon as you get them or only after a while of having them? why does it do it? and would a pitpro 125 rr be a good bike for its price?
 
Yo andrew. I've had my 125 rr for about 3 weeks now. It's great! No oil burning, its pretty quick, no real problems that weren't my fault, all round good! I wouldn't pay over $550 (exluding delivery) though. So just bid wisely.
 
if it would starting to burn oil it wouldn't happen in 3 weeks could be a year before it starts.
 
Run the engine in properly - brand new rings do not seal against the bore - you have to MAKE them seal before the peaks of the honing wears off .........that's the sole reason why cylinders are honed to the texture they are when new . I've done exactly what motoman says for over 35 years on all types of engines and found what he says to be spot on . I've also torn down and inspected cylinders and piston wear patterns so I know what he says to be 100 % true since I've been doing it the same way for 33 years before reading his ideas ...... he is just simply stating the true facts in laymans terms . A lot of idiots disagree with him ....... but they are just that ...IDIOTS who haven't got a clue or who want to big note themselves using their own BS . Idling or running a new engine like a pansy will give a lousy ring seal and the engine will blow smoke and use oil ......... also ...leave the crap stock oil in until AFTER the engine is run in ........ THEN change it and DON'T use synthetic or friction modified oils until the engine is thoroughly worn in ........ the Honda XR manuals state that they can take well over 1500 kilometres to properly wear in .......

Run your engine in any other way .......and accept a drastically shortened useful service life of the engine ........ :)

Engine break in proceedure???

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
 
Thanks for the info, it was really helpful. Too bad I changed my oil after 1 tank D:
 
You'll be OK because you bought a complete bike - they're given a run on rollers at the factory to make sure they're not going to have problems and be shipped back . You only have to look at the rear tyre on new bikes when you take them out of the crate to see it .

New engines in cartons are a different story - they're totally new and have never been run . All that happens if you change the oil too soon is that the rings and piston don't wear perfectly to suit the bore - so the engine uses oil after a short while (puffs a bit of blue smoke) and won't make quite as much power as one that's been broken in and run in properly ..... when I say drastically reduced engine life - I mean that the engine will last 2 to 4 years before needing reboring or re-ringing instead of 15 to 20 .....you can find Honda XR75's etc that are over 30 years old and still running good on the stock bore .

Achieving a good ring seal during bed in is extremely important to engine oil life ........ you'll know if your rings aren't sealing properly because your oil will smell strongly of petrol which is proof that combustion gas is blowing past the rings .......... :)
 
hey cactus jack,

you say to leave the original oil in for break in but i have heard that it should be changed immediately before you even start the bike because they dont use good oil??

eBay Australia Guides - Engine Break-in.

on this guide it says to change it straight away.
i am expecting my atomik rs today, and i was going to put in castrol 15-50 mineral oil in straight away, ready to be run in.
what do you think?

cheers
 
Cactus Jack is saying that so you don't have to use as much oil changing it frequently.

It won't hurt it to put your stuff in straight away as when i got a bike from Atomik they only had 200ml in there and it takes 800ml so that could have been a disaster.
 
You can change the oil if you want for peace of mind but just make sure that the oil you replace it with is low grade with NO friction modifiers in it . If you put too good an oil in for the initial start up and bed in process you are simply defeating the purpose of the honing .....you WANT controlled accelerated wear to occur during bed-in as everything laps in to suit each other for as perfect a gas and oil seal as you can get ....... plus the engine loosens up to run freer and make more power . The break in oil is going to be tossed in a short time once the engine is worn in anyway ..... along with fine metal shavings and blow by contamination ..... although the oil spinner removes all damaging particles . Whoever wrote that article obviously has only experience with later model oil spinnerless engines which need frequent and constant oil changes to have any decent length of life ..........

Incidentally , I've recently pulled 3 new Lifan engines down to port the heads after several hours running over several weeks and they STILL hadn't worn in properly despite still having the original factory supplied oil in them ..... in fact they showed VERY little wear and the oil still smelt a bit fuelly .....The oil was still clean too ......no metal shavings ....... so I don't know where people get their ideas that the as supplied oil is no good for the engine since it's deliberately put in there for a VERY , VERY , good reason .

As I've said before ...... engine rebuilders and reconditioners all know that high quality oil is no good for proper break in to occur ........
 
Good reading!

The Lifan 140 has been broken in that way. :D Factory oil drained, fresh 10W40 poured in and bike taken for a hard half day ride. Oil changed again for another dose of fresh 10W40. Taking her out this weekend coming for more "run-in" :D
 

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