Brand New GPX125 Clutch return spring

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allyboyz

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Hi Guys, Just a quick question, i just bought a brand new gpx125 from dhz was going to put it in this weekend opened the box to have a look at what im dealing with and noticed the clucth moves so easy but doesnt return by its self? is that normal for still being in the box or is something wrong with it already? i made a video of what i mean? any help would be awesome i just wanna know if i should take it back or its normal for a clutch to be like this?
http://youtu.be/gemXqNh2MOE
 
yeah, your not pushing the clutch plates yet, that is just slack
 
I agree the clutch is no where near engaging the arm has to move a lot further forward then that, put a shifter on it and turn it for leverage than see if it returns, which I think you'll find it will. You've got nothing to worry about.


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They are very strong springs, you will have to push it towards teh cylinder like you were doing but much, much harder, it will probably hurt your hand a little. Also remember that for when you install the clutch cable. It should be adjusted so that as soon as the lever is pulled it will start separating the clutch plates, and there should be a small amount of tension on the cable when not pulled as well.
 
Ok awesome. This is my first build and i am still pretty new to all of this stuff. Thanks heaps for letting me know looking forward to seeing how this engine runs. Do you guys recommend running the oil cooler on this or just letting it loop its self?
 
yeah it is safer to run it and probably extend your engines life time. Those engines are a heap of fun and you won't be disapointed.

Also I doubt these come with oil in them but if they do get rid of it and put some REAL oil in it.
 
hi Guys, ran into another lil problem my forks run a 12mm axel and my new motard rims a 15mm axel i was thinking if i can find some 15mm od pipe thats a 12mm id and run it through the bearings and hub would that work or is that a bad idea? dont wanna buy new forks. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 
hi Guys, ran into another lil problem my forks run a 12mm axel and my new motard rims a 15mm axel i was thinking if i can find some 15mm od pipe thats a 12mm id and run it through the bearings and hub would that work or is that a bad idea? dont wanna buy new forks. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

it would be better and easier to replace the wheel bearings :) you can get some 12mm ones from most pitty shops or bolts/bearing shop take in your old ones to get new ones with a 12mm inside diameter
 
hi Guys, ran into another lil problem my forks run a 12mm axel and my new motard rims a 15mm axel i was thinking if i can find some 15mm od pipe thats a 12mm id and run it through the bearings and hub would that work or is that a bad idea? dont wanna buy new forks. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
you would be best off having some rod machined up on a lathe to do the job.
here's some off ebay,
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rear-Bea..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item336615fb2d&_uhb=1
 
I've got some 12mm bearings i can take out of the wheel im swapping if that will work but does it matter that the inside of the hub will still be 15mm just with 12mm bearings? i thought there might be more to it than just swapping the bearings but if that works could be the easiest option
 
yeah thats what i was thinking about doing, is it possible to just change the bearings though without changing the inside of the hub?
 
cheers for the links! i think i might go with the 15mm-12mm bearing adapter. the only thing im worried about is the axel will just be floating around inside the hub and be supported by the bearings. is that gonna be a issue or is that how it usually is? hope im not sounding to dumb here hahah.
 
there is normally a spacer inside the hub betwen the bearings standard.
otherwise they would slowly wear into stops/steps in the hubs, and cause a lot of movement.

the small adapters in the second link may still slide into the 15mm spacer inside the hubs though.

if you try making your own, there is a chance they wouldn't fit perfectly, and could cause some wobbles
and on the tarmac that could be scary.

a machinist would be the best way to go, price wise, i don't think they'd charge too much for a pair of them.
 
read above post...

wheel wobble is scary on a motard especially at 100 k's
 
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