carby dramas at angle, yx150

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yeah
it's a fine line
most of the time the vacum in the carb should pull the right amount of fuel through
maybe it is a carb issue and not flow
 
so would i as i said before had heard bad reports about them.
yeah well decision has been made, 28mm oko it is.

pitty i'm away at work till the 15th, want to get it now and see if there's any difference
 
im interested on how it goes so please fill me in when ur set up and going good
 
I've got 2 MOLKTS and a Miconi which is almost the same carb ...... the Miconi is lighter and has "Model in Japan" cast on the side ...... :rolleyes: ..... The MOLKTS have nothing on them ( except MOLKT ) so it seems that they're a chinese copy of a Miconi .... NONE of them are 26 mm ....... they are actually only 24 mm if you measure the venturi with vernier calipers ... only the end of the outlet bore is 26 mm .....

I bought one MOLKT on ebay from the guy who sells Pimpit bikes ....... it smells of fuel so it's been used on a bike and found to have a problem .... so he's removed it and choofed it off ... and I'm the unwary sucker who bought it ... LOL ....... :p But I'm most certainly not complaining since it was only cheap ...... still a bargain !!! The other MOLKT is on a brand new as yet un run DHZ Monster Pro 150R SE bike !

After reading this thread .... I pulled the MOLKT , the Miconi , a genuine VM-28 off a KX80 , and an XR80 Keihin carb apart to check for anything that was obviously different on the chinese carbs ....

The MOLKT's rubber float bowl to carb gasket was too small and was cocking up into the bowl on one side so it wasn't sealing properly and would have definitely allowed fuel to pour out of the bowl if the carb was tilted .... It would also have created an air leak which would allow fuel in the bowl to be aerated as it sloshed around .... I carefully stretched the gasket until it fitted neatly into the recess in the carb body ... so that's one OBVIOUS problem that was a simple fix ....

The gasket in the Miconi sat perfectly where it's supposed to sit and was sealing spot on ......

The first thing I noticed between the carbs is that the VM-28 and the XR80 carb both have "bells" over the main jet ..... a "bell" is a brass or plastic shroud like a cup with a hole drilled in it that goes between the main jet and the needle jet (aka emulsion tube) ..... Its purpose is to stop intermittent fuel supply to the main jet caused by the fuel being pulled away from the jet due to sloshing around in the float bowl when the bike gets shaken or moved around quickly ....... (tilted during wheel standing , landing from a jump , hitting bumps and ruts etc) ..... The symptoms of fuel slosh are annoying bogging and spluttering intermittent loss and regain of power etc ......

Stock early XR75 20 mm Keihin carbs never had the bells and neither did the SL/XL 125 22 mm Keihins that were fitted as a performance carb .... They ran perfectly on roads and relatively smooth tracks but not on rough tracks .....

In 1974 , American modifiers such as PK Racing , Ward Racing , DG etc discovered that fitting a bell over the jet solved the weird running problems ...... I took good notice of what I learnt from reading hop up articles in American Minicycle Magazine and fixed all my carbs by fitting my own bell shrouds ..... it was one of my little secrets .....

Then in later model bikes .... Honda adopted all the modifications to make the bikes run better ...... they also altered the float bowl shape and made it smaller in volume to help keep the fuel from pulling away from the main jet ....

I'd say that the MOLKTS suffer the same problems ...... and the easy fix is to buy a main jet shroud for a VM-Mikuni , make sure that the carb to bowl gasket is sitting in its recess and properly sealing , and also to make sure that the float level is set properly ...... not too high .... and not too low ......

It's best to set the float level with the fuel tank and carb off the bike ..... that way you can adjust the float tab to achieve the highest fuel level possible and tilt the carb to simulate hill climbing and wheel standing ..... making gradual alterations until you can tilt it without fuel running out from the overflow .......

I'm fairly confident that these carbs can be sorted out if set up right ....... IF the carbs WERE junk ...... the company making them would have disappeared pretty quickly ....... :)
 
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very interesting!!! How do this"bells" look like?? I got the sloshing problem on one of my Keihin PE24....so far its very rare it happened , but it happened!

I like to try it out, please post a pic if possible!!
 
i have a pitster pro X4 with the yx 150 and it came with the molkt carby and apparently those carbies dont have a great name and mine was just flooding and bike wouldnt even idle so the dealer i got my bike from swapped it for a 30mm mikuni at no charge and since then ive done a main jet change and adjusted needle clip and she runs sweet as,,, dunno bout KTM 300 exc's avin similar problem cuz mine climbs the steepest of hills no probs at all,,,, anyways if ya still avin probs with ya YX 150 give brian a call at east 50s thats where i got mine from, he might b able to help ya out
 
very interesting!!! How do this"bells" look like?? I got the sloshing problem on one of my Keihin PE24....so far its very rare it happened , but it happened!

I like to try it out, please post a pic if possible!!

MAAANNNN !!!!!!! It's hard to find pics and info on anti slosh cups / main jet shrouds (bells) .... It seems that not too many people on the planet have a clue they even exist ...... LOL ..... I'll have to take a pic of one for you tomorrow ......

Here's a Mikuni kit used for trials bikes - the small part on the left is the main jet bell shroud / anti slosh cup (whatever you prefer to call them) . You unscrew the main jet from the emulsion tube .... put the jet up inside the jet shroud (bell) with the threaded part sticking thru the hole in top of it .... then screw it back in to the emulsion tube ( aka needle jet) .... On the right is a float bowl extension that replaces the bottom plug on a genuine Mikuni VM carb :

Betamotor - Factory parts

New Rev 3 Mikuni Carb? - Trials Central

Kawasaki has fitted shrouds to the KLX140 as "new technology" that I've known of for more than 30 years .....

KLXâ„¢140L : Detail View

Another guy (stringburner) talks about them in this link on Suzuki DRZ 400's .. referring to them as a "white plastic anti-slosh cup" :

07 DRZ400sm Carb rejet - Supermoto Junkie
 
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Carbys Carbys Carbys

The so called mikuni 30mm would be an easy fix we have also fitted a couple of them to 150's and some of the worked 140's with good results. We have messed around with heaps of different carbs and many of the copy carbs also. After spending about $1000 bucks on different carbs we are now using the genuine Keihin 24mm carbs on all the serious bikes and the 30mm mikuni copys for the budget boys. The OKO's are ok but can develope slide issues some sooner than others. Ive got a new 30mm OKO in the box still if you want it. You can have it $40 PM Me for details
 
WOOOWCactus ...you´re the wizzard..hahaha...well I will try my luck and will report, ok??
@ mcanix: yeah...the 24Keihin is a decent one!!...do you have the flatside or round in the racebikes?? Even so with PE´s I got a slideproblem too...the chroming fades away on some....and one got stuck in third gear full throttle:eek: ...unfortunately it was me ,who made a new exit in our Track:p
 
Just to let u know i have a OKO 28mm dslide carb kit for sale in classifieds and it will suit ur needs to a tee

let us know
 
WOOOWCactus ...you´re the wizzard..hahaha...well I will try my luck and will report, ok??
@ mcanix: yeah...the 24Keihin is a decent one!!...p

Go the Keihins ...... they've served me well without a hiccup since 1974 ..... LOL .....

Yes mountain .... if you have a genuine Mikuni the trials kit might fit spot on and solve any problems .... what they do is make the engine run flawlessy like you're racing on flat smooth road no matter how rough the going gets .... no more stuttering , spluttering or bogging after jumps , under heavy braking and acceleration etc

Obviously the slightest hiccup in a trials riding situation can be extremely dangerous ...... they need precise throttling and braking response ...... When the engine does precisely what you want it to do ..... when you want it to do it .... you can go a lot faster , pull better wheel stands , power slides etc ....

It seems to me that Kawasaki is on the ball when it comes to understanding fuel slosh so I'd say you'll find what you want at your local "Kwaka" dealers' shop ........

You could ALSO push a short piece of fuel line or hose over the outside of your main jet ... and even your pilot jet ....... then push a short piece of brass tubing over that again to make your own adjustable anti slosh shroud .... or do as I did over 30 years ago and find a small bell , shorten it so that it clears the bottom of the float bowl and drill a hole in it for the jet to go thru ..... then drill a few tiny holes around the top sides (you'll find tiny bells at a pet bird accessories shop - LOL ) .... Where there's a will ...... there's a way ..
 
For the Keihins we have gone with the round slides for the simple reason they seem to be slightly less agressive compared to the flatslides. We are waiting delivery of a genuine mikuni flatslide as the copys are crap and we found them a bit difficuilt to tune (one day great next day shit) with the only difference being a degree or 2 in temperature. Yes it will make a difference but not so radical that the bike will not perform at all. Well not in my book anyway. Just too temprimental for my liking and after a few hours we were having slide issues so thats another one thats been placed in the box of non acceptable carby's.

At the end of the day like all performance tuning you need to look at a few simple questions before making your purchase. Then you will be able to narrow down your options. Keep it real dont expect miricals and sometimes you will get a bit more than expected, With these bikes its all the 1%ers all the little bits that add up. We are finding some excellent results with way less hard work (and money) by putting time into the fine detail. Also remember that with more performance comes more servicing. Here are a couple of questions to help you narrow down your options looking for your new carby.

what is your budjet
how long do I expect that component to operate correctly for the price I am willing to pay for it
is it servicable or dissposable
is there anyone in the world who has successfully used this component in the conditions I am wanting to use it Plus are they willing to share their knowledge to help you ( i dont )..........​

Keep these things in mind and your descission will be a little easier. Look..... With so much of this gear you end up getting what you pay for. If your pocket only allows for an OKO and you dont expect it to last forever or be faultless go that way they are ok for what you pay. If your going to keep developing the bike get a carby that will also lend itself to tuning for the additional mods. Hope this helps and hasnt put too much bullshit into a main jet for ya.;)
 
Yes , that's top advice ! The OKO's aren't hard chromed just normal soft chromed so the slides won't last too long before problems set in ....

I'd say the reason why most people go for the el cheapo carbs is so they can experiment cheaply for themselves to find out first hand what works and what doesn't without parting out big for genuine carbs only to find that they're too big or simply don't work as expected ...... usually you pay big for them ... then lose BIG when you try to sell them ..... that puts even people like me off buying genuine Mikunis etc ....

You can blame the shops too because none of them buy - in bulk lots of top brand carbs to enable themselves to sell them at an attractive price ...... they're always around $250 or so for just a genuine VM-26 .....

For the same price you can buy several different sized copies to try ...... then when you work out which size you like best ..... sell them off to other tinkerers who think along the lines of the same experimenting way .... THEN part out big for a genuine Mikuni or Keihin .....

Look at when the YX150's first came out ...... they were $1250 just for a motor and the majority of people wouldn't touch them with a barge pole due to the "unknown factor" ..... When the price finally dropped ..... every Joe Blo and his dog started buying them and now they're selling pretty well ......

Sellers who hang onto their stock at a fixed price end up not selling theirs .... then newer improved models come out and they're left with egg on their faces and a load of difficult to sell "out dated old stock" ..... Most people are wary of new products and won't risk paying high prices . They don't want to be the "guinea pigs" :p

Over in the US Pitster and others are starting to see the light and supply their bikes with sorted Genuine Mikunis as stock standard ..... Once the general pit bike crowd start seeing the Mikunis everywhere ...... then they'll start to become the main choice of carb ...... and people will start giving all the el cheapos a miss ...... :)

The carburetor is a major part of any motor ..... so it's best (a wise move) to buy a top brand high quality model from the word go ..... but as I said before ...... there's a lot of doubt in peoples' heads so they're reluctant to take the plunge ..... they need some coaxing .... :)
 
not fussed about price for a genuine, will head that way after sorting out what style of carb suits my requirments best, e.g. style and size.
but considering that the bike will be going through ongoing mechanical surgery i don't want to purchase a genuine untill im happy with what i've acheived elsewhere in developments. just after something to cure this angled problem i'm having temporarily as its quite annoying. just when you think your gonna make it to the top......... you don't and have the uncomfortable requirement to turn around (going down is easy, turning around sucks!)

as far as i'm concerned a genuine in the long run is the way to go as you can get parts and rebuild kits for them but for knock offs?, i'm not sure. replicas to me are a throw away item, just like your GMC and ozito branded tools.
 
..... there's a lot of doubt in peoples' heads so they're reluctant to take the plunge ..... they need some coaxing .... :)


Well said ...even overall the bikes are affortable ..at least your carb and your suspension should be decent(Quality)!!:D
 
well gave an oko 28mm a shot, had the first real ride today, founr the standard main 102 jet to be way to small, had bought a second oko to give to a mate but decided to use it for its jet and give it to him with a fresh one once tuning is complete.

after a bit of fooling around got it running pretty sweet, hill dramas are no more! power throughout has improved more than i expected, especially down low.

still have some fine adjustments to make but the oko shits all over the molkt
 

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