changing cams/ timing requires 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 14mm sockets n ratchet, 10mm spanner

[headsmess]

1. clean your motor a bit

2. remove bash plate. 2x 8mm on cylinder, 2x 10mm on foot pegs.
3. remove cam chain tension bolt, remove spring, leave piston in, and replace bolt to retain piston. if you pull out the piston, drain your oil FIRST!!!!

4.remove cam sprocket cover. the bolt runs through the cams, its the 10mm on the opposite side. loosen it a few turns then give it a tap to loosen the cover. then remove.

5.remove timing mark cover and magneto/flywheel nut cover, using a wide flatblade screwdriver. or remove the whole cover... held on with 8mm bolts

6.using a 14mm socket, turn the crank until 1) the line with a T next to it is visible through the inspection hole, AND 2) the dot on the cam sprocket is towards the top of the head. there should be a mark on the head as well.

7.go read Dabombs tute on tearing down the head

 

[bulldog93]

i can't click the links for some unknow reason(and no im not a retard)

 

[headsmess]

can i finish now?

sorry mountain boy, but i found its tricky to change valve springs with the head bolted on. and undoing the valve adjusters didnt let me pull the cams out, so i did this...
1. head off, insert something int the hollow rocker pins. i used an insulated screwdriver, but a pencil, chopstick whatever will do it...even laying it on its side and tapping a few times they should slide out. my inlet one wouldnt, hence the screwdriver.

2.cams will slide out easily.

3.valve spring compressor... i made this in ten minutes with a bit of pipoe and an
"F" clamp.

4. carefully compress springs, and remove retainers with a magnetic tip screwdriver

 

[headsmess]

reassembly

1. note the retainers are tapered, and the little lump on the inside face goes to the top of the valve, and locates in the groove on the valve stem

2. compress springs and reinsert retainers. once again, magnetic tip screwdriver... and some determination and a good temper helps.... fiddly.

3. replace rockers, and set your valve clearance with the head on the bench...slightly easier. .003/.004 inlet/exhaust... youll need a 9mm spanner, feeler guages, and a pair of pliers...or a really small spanner.

4. good idea to tighten the head/cylinder bolts while the heads off... use two nuts locked against each other for this bit.

5. before replacing head, check that the gaskets good. that the o-ring on the lower right hand head bolt (clutch side of engine)is in place. and that the o-ring with washer is in place on the oil return gallery(at bottom of cylinder)

6. put head back on. and replace washers and nuts(the copper washer is also on the lower right hand stud) and do up FINGER tight. slip cam sprocket onto cams, and just replace one bolt for now. check the timing marks line up like they did when you pulled it apart.

7.timing marks dont line up? slide sprocket back off the cams, and lift chain over by one tooth...or two, or three...as many as it takes. if your careful on dismantling and leave the sprocket where it was in the chain... either way, you want TDC on the crank/flywheel to line up, and the dot on cam sprocket to align with mark on the head
.
8. replace spring in tensioner, and slowly turn motor over, with the 14mm socket on the crank nut..
timing marks lining up, and no interference with valves and piston etc, you can start tightening the head bolts. evenly and diagonally. replace all the sprocket bolts, hold the crank still while tightening these.

9. replace cam cover, exhaust, inlet manifold once youre happy with your reassembly.

10. start it up. with new cams its recommended to set the idle fairly high and let it run for twenty minutes to allow the faces to bed in/work harden blah blah blah. dont let it idle slow, and dont rev it like a maniac either.

11. all happy? running fine? yay. go ride.

 

[headsmess]

I wasn^t talking about valves or springs....I was talking about the cam ...just slide the valve rocker shafts out and the cam pops out like nothing...no head to remove...a 5 minute job

um... i found the bearing on the cam would NOT clear the rockers, and as i had new springs to put in as well(they came with the cams, and are harder)... not to mention the head bolts are IN THE WAY OF THE ROCKER PINS/SHAFTS... so maybe you got a different head to the one i have? was the same with my old postie as well... i dont know if you can see the HOLE above the shaft in my pic, but thats where the head bolt goes...so i still dont see how i can remove the shafts WITHOUT removing the head first... now go eat a tin can or something...or post your own damn tute, instead of making smartarse remarks

 

[china boy788]

need to fix up the pic????

 

[headsmess]

yeah yeah, pics are woeful ill do it another day

but still, which head lets you pull the rocker shafts out while its still bolted on? havent come across one yet, myself...but my experience is limited. lifan, honda... thats about it...

 

[DvDRip]

they're not saying the pix suck, they're saying they don't even work

instead of attaching the pics it's heaps better to upload them to ImageShack® - Image Hosting, then just post the link with these tags around it

[IMG][/IMG]

 

[headsmess]

rightio, this i shall try.... cheers but the pics still suck...and how come they work for me? cause theyre my attachments perhaps? i shoulda just stayed in bed not worth the effort...

i still want to know which head it is that doesnt have the head bolts in the way of the rocker shafts though...

 

[roost666]

pics are fixed buddy

 

[sean01]

lol all this time and still no one has answered his question...

iv never seen a head that you can pull the rocker shafts out with it still bolted to the engine either..
like you said. the head bolts go thru the shafts...
but you can in most cases still remove the cam by loosening off the rockers totally and turn the cam while pulling it out....