Chris 125 build

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SSR-125 said:
oh okay and 10W-40 Petroleum Based (Nonsynthetic) every few rides?
Click to expand...
i run the cheapest oil thats not castrol so usually i end up with motul 10-40w i change it every few rides, but if i do a full day at frankston mx i change the oil because the bike has been ran hard for approx 5 -8 hrs however if im trail riding i dont change the oil much..
really aslong as the oil is filtered it will work just as well as the previous aslong as its not gone sludgy its still cleaning the engine and running the same..
 
okay awesome thanks for your help! another thing is back to my carb question lol what would you go abouts adjusting it with my exhaust when i get it.. just leave it or make an adjustment before i kick it over the 1st time..? another thing i noticed today on my bike is the headset (forks to the frame are like loose.. i don't know if a bearing is shot in their of if the column is just loose..
 
undo the bolts holding the top tripple clamp on, the ones at each end.
then undo the big nut at the back/middle, the whole top section including the handlebars can be lifted off.

there should be another big nut holding the steerer tube firm in the bearings, nip it up a touch.
then refit the top clamps/handlebars again and tighten the bolts holding them to the fork tubes and the locking nut in the back/middle
 
for the carby just leave it.. its unlikley you will need to change it up much unless it was a major restriction
 
motor installed.. however when i turn fuel on its leaking to the bottom of the carb.. floats aren't stuck and screw is all the way in. I didn't make any carb adjustments.. bbr exhaust is on thier and its back firing a little bike (poping) with a little tiny fire ball out of the back.. meaning im running rich.. any recommendations?
 
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got a new chain (golf) the motor of course and red chain adjusters (piranha) making progress!
 
wow mate, its coming along nicely! that new engine should add some extra poke! what gearing are u gonna run?
im not sure on your carb problem, but i thibk i have a fair idea of what ur bacfiring issue may be. it could be running rich OR lean. it could be either. also your valvle clearence will most likely be out, being a new motor. set your inlet to 0.04 and exhaust to 0.03 . it woulb be backfiring because the exaust will be too tight. it could also be a jetting prblem, but i wud definately do valve clearences anyway. you never know what there set at.
 
did you fit a new copper seal between the exhaust pipe and head, before you did up the 2x bolts?
if so, then it may just need you to tighten up the 2x nuts
this will seal the joint, and wont let air to get in and should stop it popping
it can also leak at the rear of the pipe, where it joins the muffler.


the rockers for the valves will most likely need adjusting like Blender suggested, but its a bit tighter than what he posted, and the other way around too.
intake needs .003" clearance and exhaust needs .004"

here is a video that might help you set them, but use the clearances i wrote above.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJciyJRJh8Q



carby flooding,
carby may have something stuck in the needle and seat?
and not letting the needle seal/close off into the seat when the fuel bowl is full


and is there something sitting between the intake manifold and the head?
there should only be a gasket there.
almost looks like there is a plastic insulator between them, like the one on the carby end of the manifold?
 
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The poping could be a side affect of the fuel leak. What do you mean when you say it is leaking to the bottom of the fuel bowl? Does that mean it is leaking from the fuel bowl or leaking from the top of the carb down to the bottom?
If your needle valve is not sealing this will cause the carb to over flow and can also cause backfiring.
 
I am leaking fuel out of the air filter. And out of the bowl even though drain screw is all the way in. Floats aren't sticking, my needle valve doesn't have anything on it (dirt) ect. I just don't understand. Must be something small that I'm mistaken of
 
yeah the float tab needs to be bent up to stop the fuel earlier
 
at least you have experience setting the float.
is this the same Mikuni off the 125 ?

and it's easy to see where the float level is too



the way this float is pictured, the tab needs to be bent upwards a touch, maybe 1-2mm higher

 
Another problem is when I give it gas it bogs out just touching the gas, and no Craig this is a new carb
 
I upped the pilot from 15 to 17.5. Mixture screw is 2.5 turns ou t. I can't even test it cause I have much fuel dumping out. I tried all those things and cleaned it up and everything an still nothing :/ trying to go riding today!
 
i really appreciate the help guys! The carby was actually defected from the factory so i wasn't doing anything wrong haha. The needle set was messed up, ect. I just installed a new carb with a 97.5 main and a 17.5 pilot in the middle needle setting, runs great. going riding today! More parts to come!

-Triple clamp
-New forks
-Oil cooler
-New kick starter
-Silver pedals
-ASV levers

heres some pictures of my bike and my friends thumbstar that he picked up !
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wow, i must say it looks awesome dude. you did a pretty nice job on it all +reps mate :) also what carb did you end up putting on?
 
thanks man, i appreciate it! i put the BBR pipe on their went for a long ride today, only touched the pilot and my spark plug is a brownish. middle needle setting, running like a gem! They sent me the same exact carb ( 22mm mikuni ) cause as i said previously the other one was defective.. More parts to come soon! I ordered the kick starter !
 
A few questions for you all...

What are your opinions on the rev boxes? If i have the piranha what would should i get? Does it help? worth the money?

Another thing is that my original kill switch off the ssr 125 motor does not plug into the new piranha 140 motor.. Which one do i need to buy? their are no plugs that the kill switch would go into that i see besides a female off the coil.. any ideas? Thanks
-Chris
 
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