dhz exhaust weld?

Mini Dirt Bikes & Pit Bikes Forum

Help Support Mini Dirt Bikes & Pit Bikes Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

edzy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2006
Messages
362
Reaction score
0
Location
geelong
hey guys
last night i grinded the ugly weld out of the exhaust of my dhz 140
i took it for a spin before in the backyard...
cant tell if ive gained power or lost it
it felt really powerless at the start but after a few squirts it felt normal again...

has anyone grinded that ugly weld off before on a dhz 140 or similar?

thanks
 
It should make it flow better,but you may need to adjust the mixtures to get it to run properly again.
 
fuel/air mixture...
do you know the standard setting?

how can i tell its the right setting?
sound?
 
i did this the other day on my 140s and it didnt seem to do much performance wise but it sounds a bit better now! i also cleaned up the intake manifold while i was at it
 
yeah i did the intake manifold too.....

any one know how to tell if the fuel/air mixture is good?
like should i start 2 turns out from fully in , the work back 1/4 turn at a time?
testing each 1/4 turn???

thanks
 
lol
its a tricky spot
on the very bottom of the carby , you need to bend an old screw driver to a 90' angle so you can do it whilst the carby is mounted on the manifold,

i wanna play with the mixture but i wanna know how to do it ... anyone???
 
yeah i suppose you could

giood idea if you can get it on the 90'
 
edzy hey guys
last night i grinded the ugly weld out of the exhaust of my dhz 140
i took it for a spin before in the backyard...
cant tell if ive gained power or lost it
it felt really powerless at the start but after a few squirts it felt normal again...

has anyone grinded that ugly weld off before on a dhz 140 or similar?

thanks


Becarefull not to take to much off that weld because it will crack, if you want to clean it up flush braze the out side of the exhaurst pipe where the flange pulls up on to the pipe to bolt it on.
 
yeah i didnt take too much off
just smoothed it out , there is still some weld there , its just alot neater now.

anyone know how to tell when the mixture is right?

thanks
 
The spark plug should be a tan colour after taking it for a ride , holding it flat and killing the motor at full revs.
 
yeah i didnt take too much off
just smoothed it out , there is still some weld there , its just alot neater now.

anyone know how to tell when the mixture is right?

thanks

I tune the idle mixture by turning the idle up ....... then turning the mixture screw in until the engine drops revs ....... then out counting the turns 'til it drops revs or runs flat again , then I screw it back in by half the amount of turns .. lower the idle speed then repeat the process several times until I get a nice solid , steady thump ....... then if the pilot , needle and main jet are set right .... when I flog the engines they go off their head and always come back to a steady plonking idle without stalling all day long ....... 'been using that method on ALL engines for donkeys years (even triple SU carbs on cars) .....

Welders the world over set oxy acetylene torch mixtures in seconds using a similar method and it doesn't matter where you are on the globe ..... a neutral flame (neither rich nor lean) works best ... there are no fancy formulas , techniques or other crap ..... just sight of eye , sound , and experience .....

The only thing hampering people with the oval bore Mikuni carbs is that the screw is under the carb and hard to get at ...... IF you've tuned your idle mixture right ...... the engine (once properly worn in) should be able to sit idling all day long without overheating or stalling ...... unless some idiot interferes with it and makes it stall ....... :p .... The mixture actually controls engine temperature ........ so any engine that gets hot and stalls is TOO lean .......

Then of course ..... there's this link ....... but most of the carbs talked about are pumper carbs on multi valve 4 stroke MX bikes with water cooled cylinders ....

ThumperFaq: MXA Fuel Screw
 
Last edited:
i did this to my dhz about a month ago at first it was bogging alot then i took the exhaust off and back on again now its sounds abit louder/better and goes about the same i cant tell the diff im gunna port and polish it and the intake soon then get a dyno tune so we will see how that goes
 
Opening the pipe up is only a small part of the equation and it won't do anything if it's already the same size as the exhaust port ..... those D-Pro pipes are already bigger than the stock exhaust port ....... I just measured mine at 23 to 24 mm inside the untouched weld but the stock BVH exhaust port is only 22 mm high x 23.5 mm wide inside ........ so there's hardly any restriction caused by the weld ....

It's a totally different story once you work the ports over ........
 
found this on planetminis the other day and its the best way to tune a carb properly that i have seen ever!!!

sorry bout the length

A correctly jetted carb makes a tremendous difference in the torque, midrange pull, top-end pull, and over-rev of your engine. If you have never jetted your bike correctly, you will almost certainly gain some performance at some point in the bike's power band. A cleanly jetted pilot circuit can be the difference between having to clutch the bike out of a turn or not. The needle can make all the difference in the world for the power of the machine in most situations, as it controls the throttle range that most riders spend most of their time using. A correctly sized main jet could mean the difference between being able to rev out high enough to not have to shift one more time at the end of the straight, or the power falling flat on top and requiring you to make that extra shift.

The only way to know what jetting changes you will need is by trial-and-error. No one can give you jetting specs, because every bike is different, every rider has a different style, and jetting is totally weather dependent.

Jetting is fairly simple, and is a useful skill to learn if you ride a two-stroke and want it to perform at it's best.

It's very important that you start with the pilot circuit. The reason is simple. The pilot circuit affects the entire throttle range. When you are at full throttle, the main jet is the primary fuel metering device, but the pilot is still delivering fuel as well, adding to the total amount of fuel that your engine is receiving.

Before you start to rejet your bike, you need a clean air filter, a fresh plug (actually you need several plugs to do plug-chop tests for the main jet), and fresh fuel. One important detail: Make sure the engine is in good mechanical condition. If your engine has a worn top-end, fix it first. Trying to jet a worn out engine is a waste of time. The same goes for reeds that don't seal properly, and a silencer that needs re-packing.

Before you start the jet testing, Install a fresh plug. Warm the bike completely, and shut it off.

As already stated, start with the pilot circuit. Turn the air screw all the way in, then turn it out 1.5 turns to start. Start the engine, and turn the idle screw in until you get a slightly fast idle, or hold the throttle just barely cracked, to keep the engine idling. Turn the airscrew slowly in, and then out, until you find the point where the idle is fastest. Stop there. Do not open the screw any farther, or your throttle response will be flat and mushy, and the bike may even bog. This is only the starting point, we will still have to tune the air screw for the best response.

Now is the time to determine if you have the correct pilot installed in your carb. The air screw position determines this for you, making it very simple. If your air screw is less than 1 turn from closed, you need a larger pilot jet. If it is more than 2.5 turns from closed, you need a smaller pilot jet.

Once you have determined (and installed it if it's necessary to change it) the correct pilot jet size, and tuned the air screw for the fastest idle, it's time to tune the air screw for the best throttle response. Again, make sure the bike is at full operating temperature. Set the idle back down (the bike should still idle, despite what you read in the Moto Tabloids), and ride the bike, using closed-to-1/4 throttle transitions. Turn the air screw slightly in either direction until you find the point that gives you the best response when cracking the throttle open. Most bikes are sensitive to changes as small as 1/8 of a turn.

The air screw is not a set-it-and-leave-it adjustment. You have to constantly re-adjust the air screw to compensate for changing outdoor temps and humidity. An air screw setting that is perfect in the cool morning air will likely be too lean in the heat of the mid-day.

Now, it's time to work on the needle. Mark the throttle grip at 1/4 and 3/4 openings. Ride the bike between these two marks. If the bike bogs for a second before responding to throttle, lower the clip (raising the needle) a notch at a time until the engine picks up smoothly. If the bike sputters or sounds rough when giving it throttle, raise the clip (lowering the needle) until it runs cleanly. There isn't really any way to test the needle other than by feel, but it's usually quite obvious when it's right or wrong.

Last is the main jet. The main jet affects from 1/2 to full throttle. The easiest way to test it is to do a throttle-chop test. With the bike fully warmed up, find a long straight, and install a fresh plug. Start the engine, and do a full-throttle run down the straight, through all gears. As soon as the bike tops out, pull the clutch in, and kill the engine, coasting to a stop. Remove the plug, and look deep down inside the threads, at the base of the insulator. If it is white or gray, the main is too lean. If it is dark brown or black, the main is too rich. The correct color is a medium-dark mocha brown or tan.

Once you have a little bit of experience with jetting changes, and you start to learn the difference in feel between "rich" and "lean", you'll begin to learn, just from the sound of the exhaust and the feel of the power, not only if the bike is running rich or lean, but even which one of the carb circuits is the culprit.

Keep in mind, even though this article is intended primarily for two-strokes, four-strokes also need proper jetting to perform right, although they are not quite as fussy as their oil-burning cousins. The only real difference in the two is with the pilot circuit. Two-strokes have an air screw that you screw in to make the jetting richer, and screw out to make the jetting leaner. Four-strokes, on the other hand, have a fuel adjustment screw that you screw in to make the jetting leaner, and out to make it richer.



Print that and put it in your tool box, as I always say, best tool next to duct tape and some pliers, is spankys jetting guide
 

Latest posts

Back
Top