ducartech 125cc build up

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ok, ive had a good think about what i'l do, keep the frame

this motor: XY 140cc engine with upgraded cam, valve springs, cam sprocket
NEW YX 140CC RACING ENGINE OIL COOLED 1P56FMJ WITH Z-40 | eBay

this plastics kit: KLX 110 makita
Plastic & Makita Graphics KLX 110 KX 65 style pit bike (eBay item 170647880124 end time 29-Jun-11 03:09:13 AEST) : eBay Motors

carbie: oko flat side 26mm
OKO 26mm FlateSlide Race Carby Kit - OKO

rear shock: First going to wind up spring rate on stock and see how it goes, otherwise x4r shock
PitsterPro X4R DNM Racing Shock, 290MM - DNM

front forks: change fluid and stock for now

other bits:
bifold brake + clutch leavers
braided brake lines
handle bars

cold someone please link me to a rear sprocket and chain to buy aswell

Also what kind of bars are on this klx 110? are the standard size pro tapers??
carmichaelBBRbikeLV.jpg
 
thanks buddy. defently getting a set. just tested my old yz250f bars in the stock clamps and its a million times better than the high bars
 
just an update, ive ordered some pro taper 11/8" and some adapters. found an oko for 70 shipped but doesn't come in a 26mm. cheapest i can get a 26 for is $110 then have to add $80 for the front facing bbr style mount
 
gday mate hows it going
to be honest i would try con the missus into letting you fork out for the new bike. Or a good second hand one. It will be a newer version bike and a way better starting base, or even stock it will be way better start then your current bike setup and plans.

Because its not just the bulky parts that cost money, its all the little tiny things you need to buy and then running in to dramas with fitting etc. Then more little things need to be bought to account for putting different parts/new parts on your bike.

Don't get me wrong im not tryna knock your bike or anything, but for the money in my opinion, i would honestly recommend buying a new bike. Another alternative is a good second hand one. im sure Sean would deffinetly be able to point you in the right direction as to what kind of bike. The other alternative because you've just purchased your new engine, is get a rolling frame.

But either way goodluck with your project mate should be good to see the progress.
Darren
 
darren89 said:
gday mate hows it going
to be honest i would try con the missus into letting you fork out for the new bike. Or a good second hand one. It will be a newer version bike and a way better starting base, or even stock it will be way better start then your current bike setup and plans.

Because its not just the bulky parts that cost money, its all the little tiny things you need to buy and then running in to dramas with fitting etc. Then more little things need to be bought to account for putting different parts/new parts on your bike.

Don't get me wrong im not tryna knock your bike or anything, but for the money in my opinion, i would honestly recommend buying a new bike. Another alternative is a good second hand one. im sure Sean would deffinetly be able to point you in the right direction as to what kind of bike. The other alternative because you've just purchased your new engine, is get a rolling frame.

But either way goodluck with your project mate should be good to see the progress.
Darren
Click to expand...

I understand what you mean, getting a better package for the $. ive been over it and it would be a cheaper option, but not by alot. I will eventually upgrade the frame if i come across one.
i have to go with what i have, so im going to make the most of it. i ordered a few other bits and pieces, its summed up to around $600 now. still have to order the carb and bbr intake kit. It should be abit of fun with this new setup..
 
Good to hear goodluck. Half the fun anyway is working on it and getting to know your bike. And where its come from to where it is etc
darren
 
also while youve got it all apart, it wouldnt hurt to go and replace all your bearings with some new ones will make a big difference
Darren
 
cheers buddy i will get them out and have a look
 
what do people think of the MIKUNI VM26 compared to the 26mm oko's? min is $80 oko is $109
do either flood easily when jumped and raced?
 
check out the bearings and they are actually pretty damn good surprisingly.

having some dramas with the rear brake though, seems any position i put the brake it scrubs the disk not letting it flow freeley, its a 3mm disk, would it be a good idea to drop it to a 2mm disk?
 
I would have to agree i like the idea of keeping it from the missus but its really not practical.
You would be better off buying a new frame to start with like a crf70 style one from dhz then transplant what you can from you old bike and slowly replace everything so that it resembles what the dhz outlaw 160/140 is. That way you have a good base frame to work off...and you might be able to get away with it to a certain degree but they arent stupid, shell know what your doing lol.
 
haha i know..
does dhz do a klx style frame? the frame on the ducar seems pretty strong, its just so heavy.
i want to keep to the klx frame so everything can swap over
 
most things could probably swap over, its just the style of plastics...but a klx frame will take different plastics anyway if i am correct.

A lot of pit bike parts are generic...

Dhz do not do a klx style frame, but they are a seller of pitster pro and the pitster x4r is klx style if you wanted to go down that path, you could probably drop em a line and find out. if you were to go down the path of crf70 style you would have to buy to buy frame, swinga, plastics, seat just to start with and the forks and shock might be able to fit depending on length then you could later on do the susupension, bars etc etc.
 
cheers, yeah i will be sticking to klx frame. checking alibaba for some billet frames.

i got the engine today, already have run into problems...

firstly the clutch cable from the 125 won't fit the xy 140

secondly the upper engine mount doesn't line up correctly. I had some thoughts on how to go about getting around it.

getting a truck tie down around engine and upper frame, tighten until holes line up and put the rod through (will work but dunno if i should stress the motor and frame) or cut off the existing mounts, make up some new ones and weld them on.

thirdly, i can't find anyone who makes a straight back 26mm manifold. thinking of chopping the end off one and just connecting the carb with some silicone hose and clamps

if anyone has some imput it would be greatly appreciated.

also i am going to take all my bolts to a bolt shop and replace them with mainly 8mm-10mm socket heads
 
Hey Mate

yeah that clutch cable will fit, hopefully its he right length as well cuz thats pretty important,

maybe give DHZ a buzz at [email protected]u or give em ring and double check.

As for replacing the bolts, that is a highly recommended idea. I would also recommend you change the valve covers and ignition cover bolts to m6 socket heads as well. You will need to the valves on the engine regularly, and this makes them heaps easier to get off, especially with an oil cooler in the way.

Have you considered one of these for the carby btw:

Red Engine Adaptor Plate - DHZ

Regards,

Carlton
 
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