fork leaking oil, fork seals?

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Hollis

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hey so today i went riding and i was doing alot of monos , and ones where u have your feet of the bak and do circles and stuff but anyways when i stoped i noticed that the right fork has oil all down it," coming out of the bottem of the fork peice that goes up and down, sumthing has broken is it the fork seal ?? what do i do im not sure :confused:
 
Mono with feet on the ground, back in my day it was called a "Drag Stand", More than likely you have a blown inner or outer fork seal, sometimes dirt can get under a seal and leave an openning, you can get some really thin plastic and slide it under the seal and run it around the fork to clean out any foreign objects
 
pull your forks apart,its pretty simple, undo your fork caps whilst the in the clamps, then undo the clamps and remove the forks, at the bottom of the fork there is the fork cushions(where the axle goes threw for ya front wheel)undo the allen key bolt on the bottom of them and pull them off, then you can slide your fork arms threw the sleeves,have a look at your seals in the sleeves and give them a rub with some oil in ya hand,if there stuffed replace them, also good coz then you can replace the shit factory oil that comes in your bike, and put some better stuff in them,then assemble them doing everything in reverse.
 
man i dont have money for new oil . . . lol and all that sounds pritty hard i dont want to stuff them up, i wonder how much the shop would cost?
 
give you a hint
if you can't afford new oil then you won't be able to afford a shop to fix it.....
 
i know. . . . but if had to buy new seals and new oil and spend all that time and take a risk of stuffn it up i might aswell talk it to a shop if its not goin to cost to much more

ps. u dont need to give me a hint thanks captain obvious..
 
Hollis dude, if you want the bike to ride much nicer, then firstly clean the forks from top to bottom, then just carefully take your forks apart, measure the amount of fluid that comes out, clean the seal out, put new fork fluid in there and enjoy. It'll handle and feel much better. It's probably some dirt trapped under seal. Don't forget to loosen the top caps while the lower fork clamp is still holding the fork from rotating. Two good general tips are 1. clean working space, including rags, bench or floor. 2. Good tools. eg good allen keys and sockets and drivers.

If you are really reluctant to do that, then plan B is to read what Jaz808 wrote and do that. Some mylar from a goggle tea-off might work well. I've not tried it.

btw: you never described your forks. eg. USD or conventional? Adjustable compression and/or dampening in either or both legs? Such info helps when trying to pick a suitable fork fluid.
 
Your pitpro is preety new am I right? Well the rule of thumb is that the first oil seals in your bike will stretch much quicker ( up to 10 times more!) than your second set going of teknic motorsports suspension guru's.
You may aswell have a go your self at doing the replacement of the oil seals and inspect the condition of the dust seals and get some fresh reputable oil in there. If your afraid of doing this look at the options
- DIY costs:
$30 for seals
$15 10wt oil
Skill developed = Priceless

-Shop fix
$30 for seals
$15 10wt oil
Labour $150-170 ( thats how much it was for my big bikes)

If your really scared about doing it and you do stuff up , look you can always buy a set of fastace as-03's for the price of a shop fix. I recomend taking photo's of each of the deassembly stages and pay extra attention to the fork internals so everything goes to plan. Also to prolong your new seals life cut some house hold washing sponge (do the dishes with) and place it between the dust and oil seal or stick some seal savers on the fork.
 
would you use 10wt oil for conventional forks? There 28mm half way between the size of fast ace and stock crf50 forks. Ive never bought a new pair cause fast ace are to high... suppose i could try putting my 10inch on the front in staid.. good idea!

Im 70-75kg, mostly ride dirt hits and trails.
 
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would you use 10wt oil for conventional forks? There 28mm half way between the size of fast ace and stock crf50 forks. Ive never bought a new pair cause fast ace are to high... suppose i could try putting my 10inch on the front in staid.. good idea!

Im 70-75kg, mostly ride dirt hits and trails.

I put 15wt (190ml) in my daughter's conventional forks on her Atomik 70cc. The action feels okay after repeated compressing of a single leg. A little more dampening than with the stock fluid, and noticeably smoother action. Certainly not too much dampening with 15wt. I felt no reason to change it to 10wt. Try Shell Fork-15 (or 10), it's only $15 for 1L and feels smooth.

The fluid "weight" has nothing to do with your fork length. If you want to avoid the thud at the end of the stroke and/or make the fork travel less then add more fluid. No sure what you are getting at when you changed subjects from fluid wt to 10" wheels.
 
Oh i was meant to say that was the reason i have never bought a new set of forks, because i've never found the right size, fast50s crf forks are too short, and fastace ect is too long.

My forks bottem out heaps at the moment, so i wanted to beef them up. I'm going to put in some 20c coins as spacers the sarvo, and ile have to go get some heavier oil.
 
Oh i was meant to say that was the reason i have never bought a new set of forks, because i've never found the right size, fast50s crf forks are too short, and fastace ect is too long.

My forks bottem out heaps at the moment, so i wanted to beef them up. I'm going to put in some 20c coins as spacers the sarvo, and ile have to go get some heavier oil.

Put your forks at whatever height in the clamps you need to make the front height of you bike right for ground clearance and handling/turning.

If you forks bottom out, then put in *more* fluid. Not heavier fluid. More spring pre-load wont necessarily fit it either, and that might be the wrong thing to do anyway. More fluid means less volume for the air. So you end up with more air spring effect (if your seals are up to it).

On my eldest daughter's 70cc I did the opposite of you. I removed the spring spacers so she has a very plush and comfortable ride when cruising along. Then I also increased the fluid volume so her wrists don't get jarred on the bigger hits. She is only 7 yrs old, and her bike must handle well if she is going to enjoy herself. ;)
 
Oh ok, i went out and got me 10 20cent peices but they dont fit in the 28mm tube, would have to use 10cent peices i spose.

Just thought id show people what my top seals look like cause i lol'd.
IMG_0378.jpg
 
mine have been leaking for a long time which sucks but the forks still work fine the quote i got to get them fixed was $200 rip off.
 
Yeh ive pulled my forks apart a few times, conventional are pretty simple. Upside downs different.
 
Hey bros, do i need to replace enything or put oil in my forks because 1 on the seal that has a little spring around it, its located around the middle where the shiny polls and the black bigger polls are at, it came off but i dont see eny oil or enything? its them forks the has a srew on the top, its from a dhz 140,

and also the forks is not working or something on my lil bros 140 prox, when you push down on it, it just stays down, it dosnt bounce back up, dose enybody know whats wrong with it? do you reckon heaver springs?
 
Heavier springs, or maybe you need to put some springs in it for starters? lol
 

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