Going to try the new Hummer G4

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Hey Stinky
Welcome to the forum, ok personaly i would save your money the bike you posted looks like a slightly different ProX to me but bascily a ProX all the same.
It looks like the plastics are slighly different though but for an extra $1800 i would buy a Kuda Pro or Pro X $1800 can buy a hell of modications if you want.
Thats going off retail as well you could be lucky and buy a ProX or Kuda pro for cheap off Ebay my mate just bought an Orion ProX with big 21"19" wheels for $635 and we picked it up.
With Ebay you just have to be willing to wait and not rush in eventually you will get a bargan.
 
hi guys new to the forum
iv'e been reading and trying to pick from the prox 250 from atomik or the kuda pro have been down to atomik and seen both just want something to bash around cow paddocks with the missus was heading towards the prox but last night discovered these china bikes about to come into australia the two models are $3000 for the mx and $3300 the enduro .. i guess what i'm asking should i save my pennys and go for one of these .. your opinion would be appreciatedPuzey - Offroad Bikes

It's difficult to say without more info.

Both the Kuda and ProX will cost around $1000 each

The Kuda is a full MX size bike and suits an advanced or larger dirt rider
The ProX is a smaller framed bike and would suit the ladies or a smaller frame rider.

With the Puzey bikes you refer to - the engine spec looks about the same as the Zongshen 250cc found in the Hummer - and I expect that's what it will turn out to be.

If the guy importing them has some design talent and has had input to the manufacture - plus is willing to fully support his product with spares and technical support - then it may be worthwhile saving your pennies.

If he's just importing Chinas under another name - then go with the Hummer or ProX

The Puzey Enduro model would be interesting - if it can be registered road leagal - but we'll have to wait and see.
 
Hey Rod when we were picking up my mates Orions i was speaking to the importer and he mentioned that he had a Enduro 250cc coming out called the Cheata i asked him if it was another one of those delicate style enduro bike out of China you know the ones that are not good at either aplication.
He said no it was a great bike and you could compare to the likes of KTM in looks and shape etc something that can go off road or stay on it he also said a motard model could come as well, he has the bikes getting cirtified with ADR at the moment and should be ready in the next few months.
Sounds like something to keep an eye out for
 
i found the ad in australian trail mag last night there was a small write up on them some mob in NSW are bring them in with a 3 month warranty on the mx and 12 on the enduro yea can't belevie it myself that someone would back up such trust on a china bike the article said also they are looking at 70 bike store to stock it apperntaly the puzey is some south afriican designers creation who is in with the chinesse to build it thus the web site from south africa this is the mob from australia who are bring it in the web site is only a front page at the momnent from what i can seePuzey| Pitbikes, Expert 125, Pro 125, XTR 250 RX, XTR 250 MX
A mate said he saw these bikes at a motorcross expo said these guys where doing crusty demonds (back flip excepted) on these things... would like to see these things in the flesh i suppose before i make judment but the kuda pro is on the top of the list until then just gotta beat everyone at ebay lol :) but this enduro model looks good for around $3000 if you can get full rec reg..
 
Depends on if you have the OHC or pushrod engine.

Let us know which one you have - and whoever has the same model engine can pull the spec out of their manual for you.
I have the pushrod model. Can someone please tell me what the valve clearance for this bike is. thanks
 
I have the pushrod model. Can someone please tell me what the valve clearance for this bike is. thanks

The gap should be set to 0.05mm for both intake and exhaust valves

Too much and it will be as noisy as all hell! - too little and it will burn the valves.
 
Thunderlips i think what Tornaido ment to say is that the Pro X does have a gas strut at the back but it doesn't have a gas strut accumilator this one little device helps muffle the rebound effect.

Thanks Weegee! My main point, the KX shock outdoes the ProX one by far in my opinion (as well as my brothers)
 
Well boys
I have had the first major stack on the Kuda pro!
And the bike has stood up alot better than i faired i have to say, apart from some scratches and a foot peg that is allmost ripped off the bike is ok.

Hey Weeg - have you managed to source replacement footpegs - or are you going to weld up the existing ones??
 
Is there another bike that is the same as the G4?
I know the Atomik Kuda Pro is supposed to be the same but it looks like it has the older pushrod motor.
Only reason I ask is that Dreamrider doesn't currently have any listed at Ebay though I imagine he soon will.
 
Is there another bike that is the same as the G4?
I know the Atomik Kuda Pro is supposed to be the same but it looks like it has the older pushrod motor.
Only reason I ask is that Dreamrider doesn't currently have any listed at Ebay though I imagine he soon will.

This model bike is in transition between the older pushrod engine and the new OHC model.

It's just a matter of time before the old stock is cleared - and both the G4 and Kuda Pro will have the OHC engines.
 
This model bike is in transition between the older pushrod engine and the new OHC model.
It's just a matter of time before the old stock is cleared - and both the G4 and Kuda Pro will have the OHC engines.

Thanks for that.
It's probably better for me to wait on Atomik anyway since they are in the same state as me.
I haven't rode a motorbike for over 20 years and I'm really looking forward to it. I've already ordered the book you mentioned from Amazon
and ordered a nice looking Fox helmet from extremesupply.com.
I like the idea of learning with a Chinese bike and the need to fiddle around a bit.
Lots of fun :)
 
Has anyone had a problem with the fuel cap leaking a little? Everytime I go for a ride on my KX (and I'm hoping someone with a G4 knows a way to rememdy this) a few maybe 2-3 drop of fuel will have seeped out from the bottom of the fuel cap. Ive looked inside and the little rubber thing is there but I'm not sure if its just not donig its job or something else is the problem..
Anyone had this problem or know how to fix it?
 
Does anyone know what Chinese factory actually manufactures the Hummer?
 
Has anyone had a problem with the fuel cap leaking a little? Everytime I go for a ride on my KX (and I'm hoping someone with a G4 knows a way to rememdy this) a few maybe 2-3 drop of fuel will have seeped out from the bottom of the fuel cap. Ive looked inside and the little rubber thing is there but I'm not sure if its just not donig its job or something else is the problem..
Anyone had this problem or know how to fix it?

On the tank, check the top of the plastic thread where the cap screws onto and make sure there's no plastic dags sticking up from where the tank was injection molded. Trim any rough bits off carefully with a stanley knife - ensuring a smooth edge for the cap's rubber gasket to seal on to.

If all that looks ok and the cap screws down smoothly - then you'll have to look at a new rubber seal - or cap, if it's still leaking.
 
hi guys
stumbled accross this site today and have sat here for hours reading
i have recently purchased a tomahawk kx 250 with the ohc motor
can someone tell me where i can buy bigger sprockets and what combanation
is the better 16 front 56 rear or15 front 47 rear
 
tomahawk

hi guys
stumbled accross this site today and have sat here for hours reading
i have recently purchased a tomahawk kx 250 with the ohc motor
can someone tell me where i can buy bigger sprockets and what combanation
is the better 16 front 56 rear or15 front 47 rear
 
It depends on where you ride

The bike comes with a 15/42 gearing - which is set up so the seller can claim a high top speed (140kph+). This is almost road gearing - and if you are contemplating any hill climbs or riding in rough country - you need to consider higher gearing.

15/47 is good for general bush riding and will still give you a reasonably high top speed on long straights.

16/56 gives you that little bit more torque - and is good for steep hills and short fast technical runs, where rate of acceleration and torque is everything.

47 tooth sprockets can be purchased from Atomik or Tomahawk - 16 & 56 tooth sprockets can be purchased from Batycan in the Philippines via e-bay.

If you ride in various types of terrain - consider setting up a spare rear wheel with different gearing and tyres - that way you have various combinations to suit different terrain types.
 
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Yeah Rod
I got some peg assy's from orion on Sat morning, the brackets look the same but i think they have different bolt positions i havn't really had a look at the damage as i haven't seen the bike since the stack as i have been hous sitting since then but i am planning on working on the bike this sat.
I have a few things i want to do to it, my sprockets have arrived so they will go on, i got a new pod filter which is going on, and i still have to service the bike after the big bike ride.
 
Hi All,

I had the G4 out all day yesterday for its first real ride and there were a few issues with it. Was very noisy which I thought it might have been the engine initially, but realised it was actually the chain rattling all over the place.

When setting it up i had the back wheel off so i could grease the rod, although im not sure if i put it back correctly or not. Pretty sure i did.

You know how on each side of the wheel its got those clickers to tighten the chain. I can't have both of them set to the same slot because the wheel buckles and the bolts on the RIM hit the frame. **I've attached some photos to show you what i mean** Look how close it is up against the frame, Should it be like this?? The only way i can set it right is to have them on different slots which just gets the RIM away from the frame, but it looks as though the wheel isnt straight, and the brake pads are scrubbing up against the disks because of it.

Another thing is that the rear shock is squeeking pretty bad each time it compresses. I Spayed some WD40 onto the spring and in the area which did help alot, although its still making a bit of noise.

Finally when riding it felt fairly unstable going around dirt corners, felt like the front wheel was just going to slide out. Do you think its because of the dodgy tyres it comes with?

Other than these, the bike goes good so far. Handle bars will definately be changed soon. They're way to wide for my comfort.

Your help would be much appreciated. I really want to get this sorted, its bugging me bigtime lol

Thanks all.
Matty
 

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Does this sound like your problem?


Here's a fix to a problem you might come accross.

On my bike the rear sprocket bolts came into contact with the swinging arms of the frame, when you tried to tighten the axle nut to the recommended 60nm. The contact was so firm that it almost locked up the rear wheel.

To fix the problem I used a 16mm 316 stainless washer as a shim - and slipped it over the axle, between the swinging arm and the sprocket side wheel spacer. Besides putting a stop to the chafing, the washer also lined up the chain and rear sprocket much more centrally, which will reduce chain noise & wear.

Given that all the brake calipers etc are held in position by the tension on the rear axle nut - I also took the precaution of replacing the rear axle nut with a high tension castelated nut and split pin.

Trust me, the last thing you want coming loose on these bikes is the rear axle.

I also replaced the front and rear sprockets with a 16 tooth and 56 tooth option respectively - giving a sprocket ratio set-up of 3.5 - 1

The bike will now climb just about anything and the accelaration is great.

Top speed is only reduced to around 100kmh - and it now gets there in a hurry.
 

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