Help, Atomik Reign YX160 problem's !!!

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ilikemotorbikessoverymuch

ilikemotorbikessoverymuch

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Atomik Reign YX160 bogging - help !!!

Bought a 2014 Atomik reign 160, has had about 6 hrs since new on it. Clean as.

Runs fine when i first ride it but when after a few mins under load/throttle it will starts cutting out. Gets worse and worse and then dies.

Seems like if i take the lead off the spark plug and kick it a few times. When I put the lead back on, it will run fine again and then repeat the above problem.

Bike also bogs/dies down when I twist the throttle from 0% to full really quick.

Need help asap, keen to go for a ride.

It's had a new spark plugs, new 98 fuel, air filter is fine. It's a molkt 26mm I think, whatever is stock...

cheers

UPDATE: So I bought a new carb as the molkt was leaking fuel and bike wasnt running with it. Got a 26mm mikuni. The exact same issue occured! Checked valves to find ZERO CLEARANCE!! Adjusted and now runs great. Check your vlaves people! Even if your bike is new.
 
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Get rid of the Molkt, they are a hit and miss carby.
Get yourself an OKO 26mm kit from DHZ, come's with carby, uni filter, cable and throttle
You'll also need a bigger pilot jet, and maybe a bigger main jet, buy a #38 pilot jet and a 102 main jet as extra's for $5 ea
The Oko will make the 160 fly

Sound's like the pilot jet is clogged up,
or the small port at the bottom of the thread's where it screw's into is blocked with gum, dried up fuel
Does it have a foam air filter on it, and is it oiled ?
 
Would like to give fixing/tuning a go first though. Seems weird that it runs fine to start with.

Has a lightly oiled foam filter.

Seems more like a fuel issue than an electrical problem though right? Regardless of the spark plug trick..?

Ive played around with the air screw but no matter what, it bogs down when i give it full throttle quickly.
 
Definitely a dirty carb, clean that out with a can of throttle body/carby cleaner, remove all the jets and try blowing air through all the air bleed circuit on the carb body itself also put the carb cleaner through that too,
Sounds like the pilot is clogged, it could also be the emulsion tube too, I personally wouldn't run 98 as it has too many additives in the fuel to make a hotter burn as such and isn't designed to run in carbed motorbikes,
I run 91 and the occasional 95, check spark plug colour too, you want it to be a browny colour,


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Dont know how you can be so sure. Doesnt make sense how itll run fine, and then start getting worse, then fine again.
 
I've been around minis and bikes for fair while now, and I'm currently in my 1st year of motorcycle technology and work for Honda,
Have youreplaced the China spark plug with a genuine cr7hsa ngk spark plug? If it's still playing up after that it'll be your carb, it could be a chunk of goo floating in the bowl and getting sucked up and down the jet as its running,



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Just checked the carb, was as clean as a nuns vag but cleaned it anyway.

I replaced plug with a c7hsa. not a cr7hsa. Would that make a difference?
 
My valves seem a little noisy, I'll check the clearances tomorrow also. Maybe thats part of this problem. Next I might have to start looking at ignition...
 
C7HSA is the correct plug for a pit bike, the resisitor is built in to the spark plug cap.

Any hesitation off idle, especially when you open the throttle quickly mean's the pilot circuit is too lean.
When you checked the carby what did you actually do ?
Did you remove the mixture screw and blow compressed air in through the 2 or 3 small port's on the air filter side of the carby?
You should be able to feel the compressed air coming out either the pilot jet hole or the main jet hole as you blow air in the other side

Valve's should have a slight tapping noise, that mean's that they aren't too tight

Molkt carb's are known for getting sticky float's too, they rub against the main jet tower, and can rub on the edge of the fuel bowl,
so if it isn't filling up with fuel as it uses it then that could be your problem or part of it.
 
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opened up the carb, took jets out. Sprayed everything with carb cleaner. Blew every jet, hole, tube and pipe with compressed air and re assembled.

The float sounds possible. Everything is brand new looking and all smooth and shiny though so not sure why it would stick. But maybe the bike starts lacking fuel and thats why it cuts out at speed/load. And then when it stops and is given a chance to unstick/fillup it runs again.

Fingers crossed it runs all good now after the clean.

I played with the air screw, all the way in, to all the way out. It made no difference to the throttle response issue.
 
If the mixture screw doesn't affect the idle then the pilot jet is either too big or too small
With it hesitating off idle then it's definately too small in the pilot jet.
What size jet is in there atm ?

Are you adjusting the mixture screw when the engine is warmed up, and with the idle speed raised a few hundred rpm's ?
 
Air screw did affect idle and what not. but didn't help the issue of bike bogging down when i quickly twist full throttle from idle

This issue is most likely a jetting problem.

Im more concerned about the one that's making my bike cut out at throttle while riding. Unless this is a jetting issue too
 
Have you checked the intake side for any vacuum leaks?
Start and run the bike, spray some wd40 or carby cleaner on all the joins of the carby to plastic insulator, manifold to head, even spray the rubber boot on the top of the carby where the throttle cable goes in.
Whilst doing this, listen to the way the engine idle's, if there is any idle change when you are spraying it then there is a vacuum leak.
So of there's no vacuum leak, it sounds lke you'll need to go up 1 or 2 sizes in the pilot jet then.
 
After 5mins of riding hard perfectly. It started cutting out again. Maybe its running lean which fowls the plug. And kicking with the coil off the plug does something to it. Which makes it start again when i put the lead back on?

What are the symptoms of running rich or lean.

Or maybe its the float getting stuck?

Im gonna check plug as soon as it starts cutting out. Then check it again once i get it started and compare.

Wtf
 
If its running rich turn the mixture screw out.

If its running lean turn the screw in right?

If it runs fine cold and stutters when hot under load does that mean its lean or rich?
 
Yeah screw the mixture screw in to lean it and out to richen it.
Stutter's when hot is too rich

To adjust the mixture screw, start the bike and warm it up
Now turn the idle speed screw inwards to raise the idle up to about 1600 - 1800 rpms.
Next slowly adjust the mixture screw in or out, 1/4 of a turn at a time, and leave it for a few seconds to settle each time.
Whilst doing this you need to listen to the way the engine is running,
You want to have the mixture screw adjusted so you get the highest/smoothest engine rpm's
When it's close, try adjusting it 1/8 turn at a time to fine tune it.

Once you are happy it's smooth, drop the idle speed back down to normal rpms again by turning the idle speed screw back out.

Give it a few blip rev's to check for hesitation's etc
If it does then you need to turn in the mixture screw a touch to richen the mixture, it won't be far from where it was

Then take the bike out for a ride and see how it goes then.
If it hesitates or plays up at a certain rpm then take note of where (eg 1/2 throttle, 3/4 throttle, wot) and let us know what it is doing and at what throttle position.

When you are done turn the mixture screw all the way back in, while counting how many full turn's it was out
Eg 1.75 turn's out, 2 turn's out etc
Let us know that too
 
Ill double check where the screw is but i went for a ride yesterday afternoon with a mate for an hour up some steep tracks and **** and ran absolutely perfect!!

Cheers for all the help. Can't wait to fix the carb gasket thats leaking fuel and go out this weekend.
 
Went to ride today and its running like cuts out after few mins under load. Then over 1/2 throttle ish it bogs down. Then struggled to even start. Carb is leaking fuel from the seal.
 
Fuel leaking from the seal- do you mean where the fuel bowl join's the bottom of the carby ?
If so, it sound's like there's dirt stuck in the needle and seat, the float level is wrong, or float's are sticking
 
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