Help Daytona Anima Clutch install

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Shawn5236

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Hi I need help reinstalling my Daytona Anima clutch.

I took the whole engine apart to install my 190 stroker kit on my 150 but I am stuck on getting the clutch in correctly. I don't have a ton of experience with these things and I didn't pay close attention when I took it apart.

There are friction plates and steele plates and one steele plate that has a curve to it.

I started the engine with the clutch plates out just to make sure that it fires and works.
It is really hard to start because there is no compression release. Once it gets going though holy hell this thing sounds vicious. Can't wait to test it at the track.

Thanks in advance.
 
Fit kick starter driven gear (3) onto the shaft against the bearing
Slide the clutch basket on,
Next fit splined washer onto shaft, align it with the slot and turn it to line up with the splines.
Now fit the locking washer with the tab's coming off one side into the splined washer.

Friction plate goes on first, then steel, repeat, repeat etc, ending with a friction plate.
See diagram on page 31
Daytona Anima 190F Owner's Manual (Page 31 of 38)

The steel plate with a curve, is that a washer ?
If so it's for the castle lock nut, has outside stamped on one side

Make sure you do up the 4 outer 10mm headed bolt's evenly, or you could crack the bearing pusher plate

When starting it, make sure it's just past tdc before you try kicking it over.
Push down on the kick start lever till it get's hard, then leave a little pressure on the pedal..
You'll feel it drop down a touch, that is just past tdc.
Let the kick start lever come back up, then kick start it from there

Doing it any other way could break kick start gear's, clutch basket gear, or even the r/h case
 
THANK YOU... I will work on it today and report back. I will try to take a video too to maybe help others.
 
I will take a pic of the friction plate that is curved that I am referring to. I wonder if I bent it installing it incorrectly or something.
 
I still can't figure it out. When I put it back together and torque down the nut it locks up.

I am at the point where I am about to bring it to my local independent shop. If feel like such a moron.
 
Thanks I will try again tomorrow and report back. Frustrating but I am obviously missing something here.
 
All the plate's are flat, friction and steel's
Sound's like you need another steel plate, you wont be able to straighten it if it is dished

maxresdefault.jpg


Tbolt US may have a spare steel plate from a Z160Ho, even possibly a Lifan 150 or YX 150/160 steel plate will fit too, get them to check in their parts department
Or contact Terry from Firepower Mini's he may have a spare used Daytona steel plate that is still within spec
The steel clutch plate's new measure between .9mm and 1mm thick, and service limit is .7mm thick
Maximum warp on the plate's is .2mm, so i reckon your's if it's dished, would be way past this.
Otherwise you'll need a complete new clutch


This file sort of show's you how to reassemble the clutch, picture's are of a Daytona 125 though, so the basket is slightly different to the Anima engines' clutch
Daytona 125cc repairing locating arm [gearshift fix]


Make sure the clutch hub and plate's can move a little inside the basket once it's all back together and tight


Edit;
I just measured a Lifan 150 steel plate and it is 1mm thick, Lifan 150 use a 5 plate Daytona clutch,
and the Lifan 150, YX150/160 clutch hub's fit the daytona 150/190 basket's, i have tried it before
The 150/YX clutch hub's aren't as deep as the Daytona 150/190 hub though with the Anima's running the 6 plate set up.

 
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I used the information that you provided and tried once again to install the clutch without success.

Here are some details to maybe help troubleshoot.

1) when I put in the outer clutch basket and the inner clutch plates without cranking it down with the nut onto the transmission shaft here is what happens

The transmission in neutral the bike will move back and forth without the engine turning.
The transmission shaft will move back and forth without any restrain.
The inner basket will move freely from the outer basket

All of this is normal I assume.

BUT

When I crank down the locking nut on the transmission shaft everything locks up.

The inner clutch will not move freely now even though the bike is still in neutral.

When I move the back back and forth the engine starts to turn and the back wheel starts to lock. It feels just like it would if it were in gear... but it's not!

When I install the springs, pressure plate, outer cover and tension the cable correctly everything feel normal. The clutch feels like it is as pressure and releasing as normal. Though when I try to roll the bike in neutral with or without the clutch pulled in the engine turns.

My first thought was the the transmission is messed up. However I took out the clutch (the whole thing) and tried putting it in neutral

In neutral it does not turn the engine as it is supposed to be.

Then I click it into gear and the engine turns when I roll the bike as it is supposed to be.

I therefore now think the transmission is fine its just something I am doing wrong with the clutch.

I also tried it without the lock nut torque on to the transmission shaft just to try to isolate the issue and installed the clutch to try to operate like this.

The bike rolls back and forth without turning the engine in neutral with or without the clutch pulled in (as normal)

When I shift into gear it turns the motor.... when I pull in the clutch it still turns the motor :( no good.

Damn I'm confused. Please help.
 
Is the clutch pusher sitting inside the clutch cover still ?
And when you pull the clutch in, you are doing this at the clutch lever on the bar's ?
Part #8 in the pic below

embout_emb_1P52FMI.jpg
 
Yes the pin is in there... Yes I am pulling on the clutch lever at the bars.
 
I took a GoPro vid of myself installing it so you can see exactly what's going on. So annoying... supposed to be racing this weekend and I'd like to test a bit before hand.

[video=youtube;0448JBLghuw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0448JBLghuw&feature=youtu.be[/video]
 
Ok, when you put the basket on, the flat splined washer goes on next
Did you turn the splined washer in the slot in the shaft to lock it in before fitting the pronged washer?
I reckon it's 1/8 turn, so the spline's in the washer lock into the spline's in the shaft
 
That would be the problem then
The teeth or spline's in the first flat washer need to sit in line with the spline's on the shaft
So slide it onto the shaft down to the slot, then turn it 1/8 to the left or right to lock it in place
Then the pronged washer hold's it together there.


incorrect fitted washer




correctly fitted washer (excuse the filthy 'part's' engine lol)




You should be able to see right through the spline's, that's where the prong's of the lock washer fit through


On the splined washer you can also see the witness mark's where the spline's on the shaft have been rubbing on it

 
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Lucky you posted a video of the clutch assembly process, otherwise it would have taken longer to work it out.
+ Rep's for thinking !!


See post #2, the 3rd sentence
I should have been a bit clearer there :11doh:


Is it really 7.23am over there? It's 11pm here atm
Do you work night shift's ?
 
Wow I think that was it!!!

I will start it up and drive it here soon to test... I'll put on my GoPro to give a ride along.

THANK YOU
 
It worked it worked HELL YES... I would've never figured that out so thanks again man you rock!

To answer your question I am in Colorado so right now it's 9:20am... I wake up early every day and have small children that get up early too.... I stay up late too, pretty much don't sleep that much :)
 
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