Help needed... over heat/super lean??

[Clunk]

The bike im working on is a Pit Pro 150 lifan.
Bike history....WAS an awesome bike, no problems, never skipped a beat for the couple years iv owned it....until i snapped the end off the kick start shaft on ANZAC Day.

I got a new shaft from pit pro and full gasket kit... stripped motor down and split the cases and put it back together with no issues.

Then it came time to try start it.... with all carby settings as were before the strip down.... no go.

The only change i had made was fit and inline fuel filter.

So a qualified mechanic friend and I double checked the cam timing and decided to mark a true TDC.... was out 1 tooth so adjusted and try again.Also checked and adjusted valve gap/lash to .003 inlet and .004 ex.Also fitted new spark plug.

Bike started and ran rough and popping flames but only with the choke on.
So tried with part choke... lil better but noticed it was getting very hot quick and exhaust started glowing red hot after only 30 sec or so of running.

Next step i stripped down the carby removed float and without removing the jets pumped compressed air in all the jets/holes and gave it a general clean.

Still ran the same... rough, popping flames.
Tried riding it....seemed to want to die and had no power up top.

Then i tried moving the E clip but only made it harder to start or worse.It seemed to run better with the clip on the bottom and spaced with a small washer.

Then sprayed WD40 around the inlet manifold and carby but no change.

So the last thing i tried was advancing and retarding the ignition backing plate but only seemed to make it easier to start at a certain position but still ran the same.

Iv given up now and am ready to scrap it and buy another KTM big bike lol.

The only other thing i can think is if i need to actually pull the carby apart and solvent soak and clean jets properly or re check the valve timing just to triple check :/

Or worse case valves need lapping in or bent BUT i figure due to the compression bending the kick start lever they should be fine.

Any pro tech pitty mechanics came across a similar thing or even better have an idea what it could be??

Attached image just a payment for your time reading....

 

[DHZ_XR8cing]

Do all youe timing marks line up?
You will have 1 on the fly wheel. should line up with a notch on the casing at 12oclock. 1 on the cam sprocket thats lines up with a mark on the head at 9oclock.

 

[Clunk]

There is a line on the fly wheel but there wasnt one on the backing plate or case to line it up with hence why we marked the case with our own TDC line up point.
The notch in the head and cam gear mark are there and match up.

And we guessed that the cam gear should match the notch in the head at TDC

 

[DHZ_XR8cing]

Yes thats right and the 1 on the fly wheel should be at 12oclock. does that sound like where yours was?
Keep in mind you can put the timing 180 degrees out.

 

[Clunk]

We've set it at the TDC of the compression stroke and the mark which was on the flywheel has a T next to it but not sure what its for and it is slightly clock wise of straight up when on our TDC mark.
We figured it wouldnt run at all if it was 180 out...

 

[rotn50]

its a lifan 150 it should have a small notch like the head does but at 12oclock as opposed to on the head at 9oclock, even if there isnt a notch on the inside top of the case the it should be at 12oclock and the cam sprocket at 9oclock, is your cam out 180deg?

 

[DHZ_XR8cing]

You will know if its on the correct position as it will want to fall off the mark. if it sits on the mark no worries it could be out.
TDC should be as soon as the inlet valve closes and the piston is at the top. making sure your turning the engine over the correct direction.

 

[rotn50]

We've set it at the TDC of the compression stroke and the mark which was on the flywheel has a T next to it but not sure what its for and it is slightly clock wise of straight up when on our TDC mark.
We figured it wouldnt run at all if it was 180 out...

you need to hold the flywheel with the T straight at 12oclock, it will spring back a little(but dont let it) but must be held on the T, if you set it at TDC on the cam sprocket with the flywheel T completely straight up and NOT slightly clockwise you should be good, but if you set it at TDC on the cam and slightly off centre at the flywheel(around 1oclock) your out.

 

[Clunk]

hmmm i might give it another check tomoz after work rotn50.
To get TDC we had a scribe in through the spark plug hole and got the piston on the rock of in out.
Will the sring back be due to cam lobe pressure or cylinder compression??

So is this the notch i line the T line up with?? just above the backing plate...

 

[rotn50]

Thats the notch mate, the cam sprocket has 3 bolts and the middle one should point towards the back of the engine, and at top dead centre the cam lobes are both pointing at the piston. It should spring back due to compression. Even one tooth out will make her play up

 

[Clunk]

ok so if i put the T line there and the cam gear as below i'll be smack on it... I hope this works.

 

[Clunk]

so why would our true TDC be at like 1 oclock to that notch???
The key way is in and nothing is damaged.

 

[rotn50]

usually on most flywheels is a T and a F, The T is top dead centre and the F is the fire mark at which the engines fires.

 

[rotn50]

So it is springing back to the fire mark, but the T at 12oclock is what you want mate.

 

[rotn50]

the pics shown is how it should be, spot on mate, let me know how it goes, the engine fires just before TDC as its no good firing at TDC as there would be no compression

 

[Clunk]

well thats a good sign as they are the pics i took before i split the case and tried putting it back together at that timing... i suggested to the mate that thats where it should be but he talked me out of it cos he is a qualified mechanic...lol.
Thanks heaps so far, will keep you posted

 

[rotn50]

haha, all good mate, i work on these everyday and im not even a mechanics a@#hole lol, sounds like its out 1 tooth or worst csae 2, but prob 1, as thats the only thing that didnt go back the same, always trust your instinct mate, have a good one, keep me posted.

 

[Clunk]

do you need to remove the plunger or what ever it is next to the oil drain plug under the motor to slacken the cam chain or just pry the gear back on gently as i have been??
This will be my last question for the night before i go sus it tomoz

 

[rotn50]

you can remove it or release the pressure from as it is oil operated and will start to operate when the bike starts and it primes with oil, but i just pry it on gently mate like you do.

 

[Clunk]

Well it was 1 tooth advanced ( i think...the mark on the cam gear was 1 tooth anti clockwise to what it should have been)

The top of the kick start lever has spun so now need a new lever... just not going well for me.
So i tried roll starting it, a few times it fired up and ran noticeably better but popped and crackeled when the throttle was closed and died.
One try it even popped a flame out the carby before dying and now my filter is melted like a cheese toastie so in the bin she goes.
I'm about to go get another kick start lever off a mate and have another go at starting when i get back if its not too late.