Lifan 125 rectifier?

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Red23

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Hi all

I'm still having lighting issues with my postie.
I've got the lifan via DHZ mini, its this one here http://www.dhz.com.au/buy/lifan-125cc-type-r-head-racing-engine-1p54fmi/EN-01

What rectifier should I be running? I bought a generic one off ebay and it charged my battery just fine, but wasn't providing full charge to the headlight/tail light. When I would put the brake on the lights would come full charge. I'm hoping my issue is in the rectifier. I hard wired the lights to the ignition, which was fine but now its drained my battery so I need to fault find.

This is the rectifier I bought
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/160880673786?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Can someone suggest a better one or am I off to a sparky?

Cheers
 
thanks for the links, and sorry about the new thread I didn't think.

The old rectifier wasn't doing anything, then with the ebay one it charged a flat battery but its not running the lights. After hardwiring the lights to the ignition it has drained the battery again, so its telling me the ebay rectifier or the stator isn't pumping enough into the battery to maintain 12v

The other option I have is downgrade all my lights to a 6V system but thats a whole new level of research and effort when I think I'm fairly close to this issue
 
one thing to try,
swap the white and yellow wires around at the voltage regulator/rectifier and see if that helps.

you have a good earth from the negative side of the battery, to bare metal on the frame?
and the green earth wire from the headlight is earthed too ?
 
I swapped the yellow/white wires around, and had no discernable effect. I've just bought myself a rectifier from dirt bike store and it specifies for the 1p54fmi and 12V. I think if this doesn't do the job I'm just going to downgrade the headlight to 6V and leave it at that. I'll check the earths again but I'm pretty certain that they are good to go. I'm not keen on sending a sparky on a wild goose chase over something I would like to be able to do myself with a bit of a point in the right direction
http://www.dirt-bike-store.com/Regulator_rectifier_12volts-shop_view-1967-598.html

Cheers
 
is there any reason you are getting it from France ?
 
they're the only ones that sell a 428 pitch sprocket for the 125 (it has a 20mm shaft). I searched high and low before I found them, and so I ordered a couple of spares in different tooth count to try out, plus they are the only ones that specify the rectifier is for that motor. Everyone else just says for x, y and z in 50, 110, 125, 150cc etc. Just want to make sure I have the right rectifier before going down other paths
 
clearly my search terms were wrong lol. I need to punch myself in the ****
 
let us know what steady top speed you get outa the beast also :p
 
at this stage there is a vibration in the adapter plate somewhere, so its only about a solid 80 at this stage. With the 16T front and removing the vibration I reckon hitting 100 shouldn't be out of the question.
 
just looked at the wiring diagram i linked in the post above.
is your connection from the rear tail light earth wire (green?) where it joins into the loom good/clean?
 
yeah I just checked the battery, with the engine stopped its 13.1v and with the engine running its 14.4 so the stator is charging just fine. When I apply the brake it spikes a bit but not to 12 (at the headlight that is)

I'm just about to give up and send it to someone. I had two blokes at work who have a good idea of electrical systems (one of them works on 240, 72, 24 and 12v systems on locos) go over it and they couldn't find an earth fault. Of all the bits I've changed myself have passed the continuity testing so I'm not sure where to look. Surely the rectifier wouldn't cause an issue like this?
 
i havent seen this problem before,
i have setup my bikes with lights as well, and redone the dune buggy's wiring.

when you wired up the new motor,
the yellow/white or yellow/yellow wires coming from the lighting coil, now run directly to the regulator/rectifier ?
the original Honda wiring diagram shows the headlights are wired to the yellow from the stator before the regulator.
do you still have the original motor? with the stator wiring coming off of it ?
can you post up a pic if you do ?
 
what i'm now thinking is you are running AC globes with DC power.

can you join a wire onto the yellow wire that goes from the stator to the regulator/rectifier,
and run the other end of the new wire to the yellow wire at the back of the headlight switch.
try that out and post your results

or is there a spare yellow wire left over from the Honda loom,?
near the regulator/rectifier that wasnt reconnected when you wired the new motors' stator to the reg/rect ?
 
Have you tried it with lower wattage globes? Chinese stators aren't known for their high wattage. I only mention it because I know the older CT90/110s (and z50's,ct70's) electrical system only had a rectifier(no regulator) and the battery soaks up any spikes in voltage, it's a "balanced" system meaning the load of the globes matches the average output of the stator give or take a watt or two, when you ran it without a battery it blew the lights due to spikes in voltage or if the front blew the rear went almost straight after it
 
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