This thread shows where the cooler lines attach to ...
http://www.miniriders.com.au/tech-talk/23369-lifan-140cc-outlaw-oil-cooler.html
The link at the bottom of this page is amusing to read ...
http://www.miniriders.com.au/tech-talk/15797-140cc-lifan-problems-alot-2.html
The shift pattern should be Neutral at the bottom then all 4 up ...
For maintenance check and adjust the valve clearances regularly plus change the oil as soon as it starts to discolour ... When running a new engine in you should do several oil changes to remove metal particles ... A magnetic sump plug is also a good idea ...
20w50 is a good oil to use in hot temperatures and 10w40 is OK in colder temps ... Air cooled engines can get pretty hot when they're ridden hard ... Hot oil thins out so it's best to use a relatively thick oil ...
To break an engine in make it pull moderately hard in say third from one quarter throttle to just over half revs then back off leaving the clutch out to allow engine breaking ... then repeat the procedure over and over until you feel the engine getting freer and pulling better ... The moderate loading will force the rings to spread out and push on the cylinder wall (without causing scuffing or glazing) and in turn wears the peaks off the honing to achieve the best ring to bore seal possible ...
Once you've bedded the rings in you can pretty much ride as normal ... just don't go letting it idle for very long or go peak revving it ... don't baby it ... gradually get it used to higher and higher revs ... Frequent oil changes will help to remove metal filings generated during break in and run in ...
Well sealing rings protect the oil from fuel blowby and contamination , produce the best power thru higher compression , and will vastly increase the working life of your motor ...
There's heaps of threads on various ideas of running engines in ... but I CBF searching for 'em ATM ...
