need big help confused?

[Fiddy@norway]

+1 on what he^ said, a 2-stroke that has been run without oil in the gas is a dead\dying 2-stroke, the gray on your plug is probably molten metal particles that have fused to it due to the GRINDING, SHEARING AND SEIZING THAT HAPPENED WHEN THE BIKE RAN ON STRAIGHT GAS!!

be prepared to do a total rebuild...

 

[jacky4]

ok ye well im doin a top end rebuild now and the piston is so badly scratched and the walls in the cylinder r lil scratchd so ye i went to the shop got a piston kit for 150 and getin the cylinder bored out for 50 so ye i thought itll be more then this but ye lucky its not sorri for all this muck around but ye prety new to these lil pw50s but thanks for all the infos peeps

 

[Fiddy@norway]

we did warn you.

how is the bottom end? any play in the crank\rod? does the crank spin smoothly? does it make any sound when you spin it? the scratching in the cylinder and piston is because it has been run on straight gas, the bottom end gets it's luberication from the oil in the gas too, this means that the bottom end could be screwed too.

do not overlook the bottom end as it can destroy your new piston and cylinder if it blows.

 

[thump*140]

that $650 you've now spent could have brought a brand new thumper fifty delivered.... heh heh..
and Fiddynorway is right, two strokes get their bottom end lubrication from the oil in the fuel mix, same as top end lubrication...
so a top end thats scored and damaged from running sans-lube, will also mean a bottom end that's been run without lubrication, will be an unhappy bottom end... never go into the bottom end without lube...

 

[Fiddy@norway]

a bottom end that's been run without lubrication, will be an unhappy bottom end... never go into the bottom end without lube...

getting frisky on us? nasty...

but back to topic: just listen to us on this one, inspect you bottom end assembly, the bearings, crank and rod can all developed play in them from being run dry. if it's worn\damaged it WILL fail...

 

[headsmess]

its sort of an industry standard to do an entire rebuild in one go. ie, changing the top end only usually causes even more trouble, then requiring ANOTHER top end rebuild as well as the bottom end... and after boring out(even slightly) just adds to the problem... the increased pressures on already worn parts from a (now) effeciently sealed combustion chamber, and the slightly higher pressures from the extra few cc's from the larger bore...

thumps right... about the $650.... and the lube