New 1997 Suzuki DS80 !!!!
- Thread starter neugz
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my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
you might be able to use a bit of an old Radiator hose off a car ?
that's what id did on the PW50 custom exhaust.
on the DS80, i made my own slip on muffler, it has is a pretty close on fit, no rubber needed.
that's what id did on the PW50 custom exhaust.
on the DS80, i made my own slip on muffler, it has is a pretty close on fit, no rubber needed.
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
i bought one of these sets from the UK, took 7 days to arrive
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Suzuki-D...otorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item2a24ce5526&_uhb=1
the top end gasket set is cheaper too
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KR-Motor...t=DE_Motorradteile&hash=item27d74cfc50&_uhb=1
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Suzuki-D...otorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item2a24ce5526&_uhb=1
the top end gasket set is cheaper too
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KR-Motor...t=DE_Motorradteile&hash=item27d74cfc50&_uhb=1
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
hey, was thinking, do you want me to make this your build thread ?
i can move it over to the Jap Builds section and rename it for you if you want ?
let me know.
do you have any more pics of the bike, or the new parts etc ?
i can move it over to the Jap Builds section and rename it for you if you want ?
let me know.
do you have any more pics of the bike, or the new parts etc ?
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
it could be a couple of thing causing it,
is your clutch cable moving freely ?
if you loosen the adjuster near the clutch arm, you should be able to unhook the end of the cable.
take it off and check that the cable moves freely up and down inside the cable outer.
if not it might need a clean out and some lube, i use Penetrene, it gets in well.
if you unhook the cable at the lever, then you can pour some in to the end and let it run down.
after a minute or so you can add a little more.
then stop once it starts dripping out the bottom end of the cable.
the other thing it could be is a worn clutch basket
they wear on the alloy tabs that locate the clutch plates, grinding grooves into the basket.
then it becomes sticky/notchy every time you pull the clutch lever in.
the only real fix if it is this, is to replace the clutch, you may get away with just replacing the basket though ?
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...at=0&_from=R40&_nkw=ds80+clutch+basket&_arr=1
the other thing it could be is that the clutch springs have lost tension,
but then my clutch would start slipping at higher rpms too.
mine springs were pretty weak, hardly any effort was needed to pull the clutch lever in.
my spare DS80 engine had a set of heavy duty clutch springs in it, i swapped them into my clutch and haven't had a problem since
but the clutch lever is now pretty firm to use, you need to get used to it.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/83-00-SU..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d96ac5bb&_uhb=1
if you need to remove the clutch be carefull,
gooseman snapped a leg off the clutch hub when he was undoing it iirc ?
this is the proper tool for holding the clutch to undo the nut.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/83-00-SU..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3b321c06&_uhb=1
is your clutch cable moving freely ?
if you loosen the adjuster near the clutch arm, you should be able to unhook the end of the cable.
take it off and check that the cable moves freely up and down inside the cable outer.
if not it might need a clean out and some lube, i use Penetrene, it gets in well.
if you unhook the cable at the lever, then you can pour some in to the end and let it run down.
after a minute or so you can add a little more.
then stop once it starts dripping out the bottom end of the cable.
the other thing it could be is a worn clutch basket
they wear on the alloy tabs that locate the clutch plates, grinding grooves into the basket.
then it becomes sticky/notchy every time you pull the clutch lever in.
the only real fix if it is this, is to replace the clutch, you may get away with just replacing the basket though ?
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...at=0&_from=R40&_nkw=ds80+clutch+basket&_arr=1
the other thing it could be is that the clutch springs have lost tension,
but then my clutch would start slipping at higher rpms too.
mine springs were pretty weak, hardly any effort was needed to pull the clutch lever in.
my spare DS80 engine had a set of heavy duty clutch springs in it, i swapped them into my clutch and haven't had a problem since
but the clutch lever is now pretty firm to use, you need to get used to it.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/83-00-SU..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d96ac5bb&_uhb=1
if you need to remove the clutch be carefull,
gooseman snapped a leg off the clutch hub when he was undoing it iirc ?
this is the proper tool for holding the clutch to undo the nut.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/83-00-SU..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3b321c06&_uhb=1
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
they come standard with 2.83 gearing, and use a 12T front sprocket and a 34T rear, same as the later JR80
A RM80 has 3.38 gearing, it uses a 14T front sprocket and a 47T rear sprocket
so the RM80 will out accelerate the DS80 in all gears but it will also have a lower top speed.
you can swap and change the gearing easily enough,
by fitting a 11T front sprocket onto your DS80 it will make your drive ratio 3.09, it will accelerate quickly off the line and up through the gears, and almost keep up with an equivalent year RM80.
personally i think that the gearing on the standard DS is a bit low, when i used it on my track up at the farm, i would only take off in 1st, it was too low to use around the track.
i have swapped my front sprocket for a 15T, the ratio is about 2.27
it is a lot better for top speed, and long straights etc
and i don't have to ring it's neck to do 100kmph
the 15T sprocket is the biggest sprocket that i can use and swap back to the 12T if i need it, and still use the same chain,
you have enough adjustment to adjust it to suit either sprocket.
so it all depends on where you want to ride it, and how you want to ride it.
A RM80 has 3.38 gearing, it uses a 14T front sprocket and a 47T rear sprocket
so the RM80 will out accelerate the DS80 in all gears but it will also have a lower top speed.
you can swap and change the gearing easily enough,
by fitting a 11T front sprocket onto your DS80 it will make your drive ratio 3.09, it will accelerate quickly off the line and up through the gears, and almost keep up with an equivalent year RM80.
personally i think that the gearing on the standard DS is a bit low, when i used it on my track up at the farm, i would only take off in 1st, it was too low to use around the track.
i have swapped my front sprocket for a 15T, the ratio is about 2.27
it is a lot better for top speed, and long straights etc
and i don't have to ring it's neck to do 100kmph
the 15T sprocket is the biggest sprocket that i can use and swap back to the 12T if i need it, and still use the same chain,
you have enough adjustment to adjust it to suit either sprocket.
so it all depends on where you want to ride it, and how you want to ride it.
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
the standard setting is somewhere between 1.5 and 2 turns out.
but you need to set it up to suit the engine in your bike anyway.
warm up the bike a little, so it will run nice without any choke etc.
raise the idle speed up to 1800rpm or so.
then adjust the mixture screw in or out until you get the highest/smoothest rpms.
do it 1/4 turn at a time, give is a few seconds to settle etc,
once you have it close, turn the screw 1/8 turn at a time.
then drop the idle speed back down to normal
and take the bike out for a test ride, it may need to have some slight adjustments from there still.
take note of how many turns out the mixture screw is and let me know.
does your engine blip rev nice/quick and sound crisp ?
i had to fit a bigger Pilot jet to mine, it really woke the engine up.
but it could have been affected by my bigger/cleaned out exhuast, and custom muffler too
but you need to set it up to suit the engine in your bike anyway.
warm up the bike a little, so it will run nice without any choke etc.
raise the idle speed up to 1800rpm or so.
then adjust the mixture screw in or out until you get the highest/smoothest rpms.
do it 1/4 turn at a time, give is a few seconds to settle etc,
once you have it close, turn the screw 1/8 turn at a time.
then drop the idle speed back down to normal
and take the bike out for a test ride, it may need to have some slight adjustments from there still.
take note of how many turns out the mixture screw is and let me know.
does your engine blip rev nice/quick and sound crisp ?
i had to fit a bigger Pilot jet to mine, it really woke the engine up.
but it could have been affected by my bigger/cleaned out exhuast, and custom muffler too
