New member, fixing up a 125 Atomik

[the_bard]

that's not an oil filter!! :bolt: haha thanks I'll make sure to give that a clean. Hmm I'll have to have a think about that chain, might start with the cheapo one.
and if anyone's got a crappy exhaust I could have for a few bucks I'd be very much appreciative.

 

[my67xr]

those hubs are really thin, i have the same on my Pro X

 

[the_bard]

Hey guys been a long time since i've been on here. On the upside I've also done a little bit to the bike. I went up to the new broady track the other weekend just to have a look around (remember i haven't been dirt biking before) man I'm inspired can't wait to take it out.

I decided against buying an exhaust and instead made up one with some pipe i had lying around - yes it's the ugliest thing in the world but it was free and it works, not to mention it's actually quite a wide bore so it makes a decent note.

I finished making up the connections for the fuel hose to the carby and attached all that as well as the throttle linkage.

I fixed the valve clearances and started it up and it runs beautifully, I bought a chain (cheapy) and a tensioner took it for a bit of a ride around the back yard which was fun but decided to pull it apart again and do some more work.

The wheel bearings seemed a bit dodgey and the dust seals were really worn so i pulled those and bought some new ones.
Then I pulled the swingarm off with the intention of regreasing the bearings and I nearly fainted

I couldn't believe how rusty these are I've ordered a new set off ebay ($16 for 4) the bearing shop was going to charge me $12 each. (the dents are from getting them out not from while they were in there but still!).

So here's a list of what I need to do before I can take it to the track - kind of scary how this list is longer than the last one I made.

Mount the carby more securely (it's only held on by the rubber hose at the moment.
Stop a small leak from the carb (one of the connections i made didn't quite fit properly)
Fix or buy new fuel cap (the top is breaking off when i tighten it too much)
Try and fix rust on forks
Clean fairings (all the stickers were peeling so i just took them off - need to go over it with some metho)
New battery and fix the wiring
Locktight all important bolts
Replace some of the more important bolts with actual grade 8
Buy a chain and sprocket guard
Shorten the throttle cable
Regrease Headstem
Bleed brakes
Service
Purchase Helmet goggles and boots.

Let me know what you think or if I've left anything off the list I should be doing!

Cheers,
Tom

 

[my67xr]

nice pipe, i would have used 45 degree joins though..

how does the CV carby perform ?

 

[the_bard]

yeah i know i could have done it better, i knocked it up in an afternoon though just measuring by eye, honestly i just wanted to get it running, i might try something a little better after i've used it for a bit.
the CV carb goes really nicely, smooth power delivery, i haven't actually used it with a slide carb but i'd imagine the CV lacks a bit of snappyness. i haven't got enough room in the back yard to really wind it up so i'm not sure how well it's tuned but it seems to go pretty well so far!

 

[the_bard]

Thought I'd post a quick little update on what I did today sorry no pics,

I stripped down the front end, regreased the headstem bearings, sanded most of the rust off the forks (not sure how long this will last but they don't seem to be leaking any oil. replaced the front wheel bearings and greased the axle, locktighted all the bolts on the front end and replaced the front brake caliper bolts with proper ones and started stripping the paint off the swingarm for repainting.

Sorry if this isn't that interesting haha

 

[the_bard]

Thought I'd give a little update, I'm still awaiting the needle bearings for the swing arm so i finished stripping it and gave it a couple of coats of paint, it's a pretty quick and nasty rattlegun paint job but it didn't really need to be good.

and here's a shot where you can see the fairings just for colour comparison (which isn't as good as i thought but still should come out alright.)

For the next update hopefully I'll have it back riding again. Thanks for reading.

Cheers,
Tom

 

[the_bard]

Got my needle bearings in the post today!!

Greased them all up nicely and installed them. I noticed that the swingarm was actually riding on the bolt not the bearings so I had a look and saw there were some spacers missing, chucked a couple of washers in there and it worked perfectly. Nice and free movement but with no lateral play.

Here's a pic of the fresh wheel bearings and seals probably could have cleaned up that brake disk a little more lol!

And here it is with the wheel on,

I'm away for the weekend now but when I get back I'll properly adjust the chain, put the shock back on and fix up everything else I need to.

Cheers,
Tom

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

Just read through this, coming along nicely. I have just rebuilt the same bike myself actually, I have the stock exhaust if you want it. Its covered in rust, but it would flow exhaust gasses better than your right angled home fab one. I dont want anything for it, you can have it for postage cost..

 

[the_bard]

Hey, Cheers that would be great if you could do that, how much would postage be? Really appreciate the offer.

Bit of bad news today, I hooked up a battery to get the electric start working and the PO had connected 2 wires which should be connected this wasn't a problem previously but now that the battery was connected it fried the CDI :/ so i've jumed online and ordered another - it was only 5 bucks.
I figured out the wiring issues and hooked up the E start. The motor runs but the engine doesn't turn over,
opened up the cover and sure enough the chains going which means the sprag clutch is fried dammit! on the plus side I noticed whilst i was looking it's already been fitted with an outer rotor kit which is a nice little bonus.
On a related note I picked up a decent second hand pair of Motox boots off gumtree which fit nicely and went over to bayswater AMX and got a Motox helmet and goggles. Which means that I've only got a couple of little things to do on the bike and once the CDI comes I can start riding it properly.

The boots.

 

[my67xr]

Ok, how do you fit an outer rotor onto an electric start engine ?
The flywheels are totally different ?

Do you have any pics of it ?

The electric start engines originally have a one way clutch on the back of the standard flywheel
The rollers can rust and seize up, you might be able to free them up with some wd/40 etc ?

 

[the_bard]

hmmm no idea, I'll get some pics tomorrow. I don't have a stator puller so i can't get the stator off at the moment, I figure I'll have a couple of rides on it before I try to fix the electric start.

btw what does everyone think of the boots? I got them for $70

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

If you pm me your address I can get a postage quote for you. I ride in steel caps so I wouldnt no if the boots are any good or not lol

 

[the_bard]

PM sent

 

[the_bard]

alright I went out and grabbed a few pics of the rotor.
the outside.

the coils

the rotor and malfunctioning Estart chain

hope this helps

 

[my67xr]

yeah it isn't an outer rotor, just a standard e start flywheel.

this is the 3 rollers that might be jammed up on the back of the flywheel

this is the puller you will need to remove it
Flywheel Puller 26mm Electric Start Atomik Motovert PIT Bike Thumpster JD100 | eBay

 

[the_bard]

ah cool thanks for that, so what does an outer rotor kit actually look like then? does anyone have a pic?

 

[my67xr]

they are about 2/3 of the size of your flywheel, and 30% lighter, they also bolt on the other way around.
you can convert your engine to use one.
you'd need to take off your flywheel then the starter mounting plate/adapter then it is back to a standard looking engine
then refit the outer rotor kit.
this is a Lifan adjustable timing ORC-



non adjustable ORC -
NEW Outer Rotor Stator Magneto Seals GPX 125cc 160cc | eBay

see the difference in thickness of the ORC flywheel ?

 

[the_bard]

Hoorah so I've finally got this bike ready to take to the track.

The CDI burnt out so I ordered a new el-cheapo one off the net put it back on and she fired up perfectly. I made a little mount for the carb, just a piece of metal that screws into it and the engine just so it doesn't shake out of the hose.
I fixed up the throttle cable - if you go back a couple of pages you can see that it was miles too long, so I've shortened it and added a 90 degree elbow which makes it route a little neater.
I bled the brakes front and back with nice fresh fluid, the front wasn't too bad but the back was spitting all sorts of gunk out of the tube. they both feel a lot better now.
I made a front sprocket guide as where I'm going to be taking the bike requires this to be fitted and I didn't want to buy one, so I routed the shape into a piece of plywood put some vasaline on it and made it up out of fibreglass, it's not perfect but should do the trick.
I used a bicycle brake lever as the clutch lever - this seems to work perfectly, and for the brake lever I used the old one off my street bike cut and filed down a bit to fit.
The fuel cap broke when I screwed it down and popped the top off of it, I attempted to plastic weld it back together once but it broke again strait away so i decided to just buy an aluminium one online.
I decided not to pull the flywheel and fix the electric start etc. Rather I'm just planning on running it without a battery for the moment. I've fixed up the wiring so that none of the start in neutral stuff is required.
At some point in the future I'm planning on getting Rec. Reg. for it and when I do that I'll fix up all the wiring properly but for the moment I'm just happy with the on/off switch.
There's still a few things left to do to make it really nice, I need to scrape the fairings down to get all the old sticker residue off (I'm not planning on putting more stickers on. I want to change the oil again and I've actually got to put the NGK spark plug in (I've been waiting until I do the oil change so that I get the best alteration in engine feel. I"m also thinking of putting one more piece of pipe in on the exhaust to get rid of that near right angle bend, as it's probably blocking quite a lot of flow but also when riding it it's dangerously close to your leg and I don't fancy a burnt inner thigh.
so now that the build is complete I thought I'd do a cost breakdown

bike - FREE
clutch cable - 8.79
wheel bearing/seals - 49.35
swing arm bearings - 16.00
chain - 27.99
chain tensioner - 5.99
fuel filter - 1.00
fuel line - 4.95
fuel cap - 6.99
radiator hose (for carb connection) - 10.00
exhaust gasket - 3.20
starter solenoid - 5.77
kickstand spring - 3.75
replacement bolts - 25.00 (approx)
air filter - 5.99
spark plug (ngk) - 4.90
CDI - 4.93
paint - 4.50
helmet - 99.00
goggles - 20.00
pants - 24.99
jersy - 9.99
gloves - 12.99
boots - 70.00
roost - 19.99

freebies (already owned/built)
carby
exhaust
throttle twist grip
brake lever
clutch lever
sprocket guard
kickstand

motorbike parts total - 189.10
gear total - 259.96
grand total - $446.06

not too bad from owning nothing to do with dirt bikes to being able to ride

and of course - this thread would be useless without pics so here you go
The completed kickstand

the mould for making the chain guard

the bike

the new throttle cable routing

mmmmm fresh brake fluid - blleeewww

sprocket guard

the bike again

 

[the_bard]

hmmm so i thought i'd give the bike an oil change today before i actually take it to the track. dumped the old out and i took off the clutch cover to clean the screen (which was totally clear btw) just for peace of mind. anyway while i was cleaning out the clutch cover case this fell out.

couldn't for the life of me see where it came from so i jumped online and looked up the lifan 125cc parts list (mine's a ducar but I'm told they're the same) the only thing that i can possibly see it being is a part #: 24212/1P50FMG - pin, gear indicating.
these however are meant to be inside the main case so how in the blazes did it get out to the clutch cover. anyway i sure as hell wasn't going to strip down the engine for that when it seemed to work fine without it so i put it all back together and gave her some fresh slippery.
With the oil; the only 10-w40 (or 30) I had was a semi-synthetic which doesn't play nicely with the wet clutch so i put in some 20-w50 not ideal I know but I'll pick some up and I'll probably change the oil again after I take it to the track so hopefully shouldn't make too much difference.