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dougy

Active Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2013
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Location
NSW Australia
Just wanted to say Hi to everyone and thank you all for the information provided in this forum.

Growing up my mum would never let me near bikes because my dad had a bad accident when he was younger that left him with some brain damage. (a car failed to give way and he wasn't wearing a helmet).

I have a son that is 13 that visits each school holidays. Last year I decided to buy a go kart for us to play with as I has also missed out on all the fun when I was a kid.... My first purchase was a pump engine go kart with no suspension. After fixing it constantly we decided we needed something with suspension and something a bit faster. I bought a chinise buggy with a 140cc lifan that wouldn't run. I read up on all the wiring and in the end determined that the stator was not giving out a signal. When I pulled the side cover of I discovered that somebody had broken the crankshaft.... So I bought an old Honda CBR250 as a donor bike. Spent a month installing the engine. Unfortunately I could never get the chain sorted out entirely. I suspect it is because of the setup that I can't get enough tension on the chain. The chain jumps and clicks badly in first gear but seems to be OK once in 2nd, I'm guessing due to the reduced torque. Due to the chain issues and the dam thing not fitting in my 4x7 trailer it never got much use.

Last week I picked up a 125cc pit bike for $350 which I latter discovered may have been too much, the only good thing it had going for it was two new dunlop tyres. It was advertised as being a thumpstar but I latter learned that it is an orion apollo. The Vin plate shows it a 2007 build. When I picked it up the guy started it after a bit of trouble and I watched him ride up and down the road as I am somewhat experienced. Once I got it home a friend who rides road bikes came round. We found it very hard to start. As it warmed up it last all top end power. We decided that we wouldn't touch the carby till we did some research so finished up buy oiling the chain that was very dry and tensioning it as it was also very loose!

The next day I ordered a Mikuni 26mm Racing Carburetor Kit that came complete with the accelerator cable. I had opened up the existing carby and played around but I decided this was the surest way I would have the bike running well for the long weekend when my son came to visit. The carby made a huge difference but it was still hard to start at times but mostly when it was cold. When installing it we discovered that the accelerator assembly was badly worn. we were lucky to get the cable installed again, I will be ordering a new one this week before it gives out. I also changed the spark plug to a NGK as recommended by this forum. Something went wrong here.... I used anti-sieze and was careful but somehow managed to slightly strip the thread.... I have never done this in my life before and I still don't know why this happened. However the plug tightened up enough and the bike ran so we left it at this stage. Another problem that we experienced was at times the clutch cable would end up in the wrong spot and keep the clutch on. Haven't fulled solved this yet.

The next day we took the bike out riding. It was so much fun, I can't believe that I've never done it before. The bike was awesome, as much power as I need as a learner and a nice size to handle. It really had some go and still pulled really hard in 4th gear, I never got to wind it out all the way. I am really looking forward to going out again. One thing that we noticed was that due to a missing fuel breather that we got sprayed with fuel!

That evening the bike didn't want to start. In the end I pulled the spark plug out to check there was spark. This is when we were able to confirm that the thread was stripped.... but most of the damage was to the plug! I cleaned all the metal I could from the head but the plug would not tighten. I then put the old plug back in and it went in really well! Still the bike didn't want to start.

The next morning I decided to check the valve clearance. I found the specs on this forum and then found a youtube video that showed the procedure clearly. The gaps were very tight. once we set them correctly the bike started much easier.

Today I worked on the bike again. When I first started it the clutch wasn't disengaging for some reason. I confirmed it was not a cable problem and that I could push the clutch leaver down with a screwdriver. I sprayed it with WD40 and Inox. At first if made no difference but latter on seems to have sorted it out....

Next I discovered that it was an electric start model! The battery was missing so I fitted one I had out of my two year old daughters electric jeep. It is 12v 7ah battery like ones used in computer UPS's. here is a link to one

Brand NEW 12V 7 2AH UPS SLA Battery 12 Volt 7AH Sealed Lead Acid Rechargeable | eBay

The start button didn't do anything so in the end I ran one wire from the solenoid to the fuse connected to the battery and the other to the starter switch and grounded the other wire coming out of the switch. Now it turns over when I push the button, although it wasn't that successful at starting the bike, the only time if fired up under electric start was when it was fully warmed up. Not sure if a newer battery would help.

I also decided the exhaust needed work as it was a tad loose and the muffler had been completely opened up so it was extremely loud. The muffler from the 140 from the go kart seemed close enough but the pipe was bent sightly different and it didn't quite work. In the end I used the original pipe with the muffler from the go-kart and added a metal scouring pad to quieten it down. Unfortunately I didn't have a new exhaust ring/gasket so I used manifold sealant and also put it on all the other joins. It has worked well and really quietened the bike down.

The last problem I seem to have encountered is another carby problem. When I was working on the bike today I noticed that when I lent the bike onto the stand with the fuel on that fuel would drip out the overflow. This seems to have gotten worse and now even when the bike is standing up straight fuel still drips out the overflow...... unfortunately it looks like I am going to have to pull the new carby apart :( any tips on whether this is likely to be dirt in the needle and seat or a float that needs adjusting?

here are the parts I will be ordering this week for the bike

Green Fuel Tank Breather 125cc Atomik PIT PRO PIT Bike Thumpster Dirt Bike | eBay

2X Petrol Fuel Filter Cleaner 50 110 125cc 250 Dirt Quad Bike ATV Buggy PIT PRO | eBay

Accelerate Throttle Grip Housing 85cm Cable PIT PRO Trail Dirt Bike Thumpstar | eBay

And as a reward for anyone who managed to read all of the above, here are some pics of the bike!

100_2394.JPG100_2395.JPG100_2396.JPG100_2397.JPG

UPDATE: on advice from another friend who had owned bikes in the past, I turned on the fuel and let the bowl fill then turned it off and drained the bowl again twice. The needle and seat seem to have been flushed out and are sealing again as fuel does not leak from the overflow now!
 
Last edited:
Welcome to Miniriders dougy, be sure to drop into the introduction section and introduce yourself to everyone.
http://www.miniriders.com/general-chat/20824-introduce-yourself.html
You and i have practically the same bike! you see the number 21 on your bike, its actually a model number. im pretty sure the manufacturer is "agb" so you have an agb21. i have done a few mods to mine, but if you need a hand with getting parts or installing them just feel free ask us or PM (private message) us your queries :)
 
The last problem I seem to have encountered is another carby problem. When I was working on the bike today I noticed that when I lent the bike onto the stand with the fuel on that fuel would drip out the overflow. This seems to have gotten worse and now even when the bike is standing up straight fuel still drips out the overflow...... unfortunately it looks like I am going to have to pull the new carby apart :( any tips on whether this is likely to be dirt in the needle and seat or a float that needs adjusting?
Yeah, you probably have to lower the float height a bit, or there busted.. take the carby off and have a look
 
welcome to Miniriders Dougy.

glad to hear you have the bike pretty sussed by using info you found on Miniriders.

the pit bike you have looks ok, it'll give you and your lad a lot of fun.
btw, did you remove and flush the fuel tank and tap before you fitted the new carby ?
the usually have some little plastic shards in them that can cause problems down stream.
i would recommend that when you fit the inline fuel filter, that you replace the fuel hose too.
sometimes they go a little brittle and bits can get into the carby causing flooding and even lack of flow, as you have found out.


i'd like to see some pics of the buggy too if you have any ?
i have a china Buggy i bought and built up for my son too, so i know what you mean about fixing them !
check out my buggy thread if you get a chance, click on the link to it, it's below in my signature.

cheers, craig
 
Thanks for the welcome Blender. I did a search for agb21 and they all seemed to have drum brakes while mine has disc front and rear (but the front aren't working). maybe I was looking at an older version? Can you give me a link to plastics that will fit this bike? Also will need a new seat at some stage... this one is torn and really hard.... Are new ones softer? I wonder if anyone has taken an old one to an upholster to get a custom more comfortable seat made?

Thanks zwebx, I fixed the overflowing problem by draining the bowl a few times.

my67xr, in hind site flushing the tank would have been a good idea and the sticking needle was probably related to some of the latter starting problems that I encountered. I will flush it before I install the filter and will use new fuel line. Then I will flush the carby bowel a few times just to be sure and hopefully I can avoid having to open the carby at this stage.
Here is a link to my buggy build: buggy with cb250 - DIY Go Kart Forum It includes some photos and video. Near the end I thought I had solved the chain problem but the weld broke on the arm for the bottom roller and I never managed to get it in the right spot again so it's still an unfinished project. I'm now at the stage where I think I will sell it for whatever I can get for it and put the cash towards another pit bike.
 
heres a set of plastics that will fit your bike.NEW CRF50 Style Black Plastic KIT 7pc DHZ Pitpro Atomik | eBay
they are copies of honda crf 50 plastics. the seller, DHZ, is a sponsor of this site and they have a website too, the link is for their e-bay store. for your seat, topline are very nice, or you can get a "tall" seat, this is pretty much just packed with abit more foam , so it'll be comfier and it doesnt have quite the bend that most flat seats have. it'll also make the bike abit more comfortable to ride, your legs will have a bit more room, the space between the top of your seat and your pegs will be abit longer :)
cheers,
jack.
 
changed the oil again yesterday. This time pulled the clutch side cover of and checked the filter screen. To my surprise it was spotless. Bled the back brakes and fit a new accelerator assembly. Lastly a friend helped me rip apart an old cb250 seat and then we used the foam and vinyl from it to transform my current seat into a tall seat. Looks a little ruff but it is soooo much more comfortable! When we were done we went for a ride out bush again. My friend has ridden road bikes for several years now and currently has an 1100. Still he had a lot of fun on my bike and is considering investing in one!

I now have a small problem... it seems the bolts holding the plastics to the tank have been overtightened and now they won't come out because the metal insert in the tank just spins....... Does this mean I'm up for a new tank and new plastics???? or is there a way to recover from this? any advise would be greatly appreciated!
 
sometimes adding superglue can help.
pull the plastics away from the tank enough to try running a little down and in, directly above the bolt/nut
let it set for a while and try undoing it.


if that doesn't hold it so you can undo the screw,
you may be able to pull the nuts out of the tank
it may need a little heat on the screw from a hot air gun to soften the plastic enough to release the captive nuts.
you could even use a big old soldering iron to heat the screw enough to pull it out.
when doing this it may wreck your tank shrouds too, but CRF plastics kits are pretty cheap.

be very careful when doing this though, sparks etc from the hot air gum may cause an explosion.
remove the tank, and flush it a quite a few times with water before attempting it.
then let it sit for a while to air out.
check/smell for fuel vapours before getting the hot air gun out.

once you have them out,
check the threads aren't rusty, if so, replace them.
they could be glued in with something like Devcon epoxy, or superglue, then the soldering iron to melt the plastic around the nut etc etc

Miniriders, and i, take no responsability if injury or death occurs using the above methods....


and if you cant do either of the above, a new tank can usually be bought for around $25
 
Miniriders, and i, take no responsability if injury or death occurs using the above methods....

fills me with confidence lol.

Thanks for the ideas. I will attempt to salvage the current tank and plastics. Failing that it looks like some of the new tanks have a much better designed insert

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261150818981?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

the tank in those photos appears to have to inserts with hex outsides that should never spin unlike the older ones with round outsides with ridges.
 
yeah, thought i'd mention it just in case..
you never know what could happen,


im a panel beater and have welded next to plenty of petrol tank fillers in cars etc etc, kinda hoping there were no fumes/vapours seeping out at the time
 
I have three spare tanks here :/ You could just pull on the plastics and rip that little nut out of the tank and then glue it back in there or heat it up and melt it back in there. But yeah be safe with fuel :) good luck
 
I got it sorted, a combination of heating and pulling got the old round nut out. Then I popped a normal hex nut on the end of the soldering iron for a few minutes before pushing it into the plastic of the tank. All sorted, this nut is not going to spin :)
 
glad to hear you got it out.

when you refit the plastics, don't fit a bolt that is too long.
otherwise it may pop the new nut out, or worse, push through the tanks and make it leak.
 
^thats what happened to my tank, i accidently picked up the wrong plastic bolt and now i have to use a nylon washer to keep it from leaking.
 
from the start we knew the fork oil seals would need changing at some stage. It bottoms out way too easy and is getting worse so I bought some oil today. After reading up on this forum I pulled off one shock. I drained the oil into a jug and collected a bit over 200ml. I removed the dust seal and the circlip but I am having trouble getting the oil seal out..... I have damaged it and can't seem to get it out.... worried about damaging the centre shaft..... anyone have some tips?
 
have you tired undoing the retaining bolt from the bottom of the fork,
then clamping the bottom end in a vice and pulling on the top section
it should just pop them out as the chrome stanchion comes out ?
 
I didn't realize there was a retaining bolt in the bottom... once I undid this the chrome section just came out leaving behind the seal. The seal looks nothing like I expected and I still can't seem to get it out. also I think I may have damaged the shock as it seems the seal has a slot in it and sits over a metal ridge that I have damaged :(
 
do you have any pics ?
sometimes they use a long bolt down from the top to retain the stanchion into the lower fork section.

there should be a bush in the top just down below the seal.
 
thanks for you help my67xr. the problem has been resolved. Managed to get a friend who grew up in Thailand to come give me a hand. He is experienced with similar bikes. We used a small bearing puller that I have that can be reversed to pull the seals out. turns out they are fairly standard and the metal that I saw was just from the seal. Only difference from a standard industrial oil seal seems to be that there is an extra ridge/lip on the inside of the seal. I will take it to a bearing shop tomorrow but even if they only have the standard seal in the same size it will do. very happy that I will have the bike running again soon without having to spend too much!
 
there should be a part number on the seals flat side
 

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