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jordzan

jordzan

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Gday everyone im about to start running in my new atomik regin bigfoot 160cc and have been on a few adventures trying to find 10w/40 mineral oil but had no luck ... the best i can do is ethier
Nulon Modern Everyday Engine & Motor Oil - 15W-40
or
Nulon Hi-Tech Fast Flowing Engine/Motor Oil - 10W-30

Which way would you guys swing?? From what ive read so far i dont want too heavy an oil as the engine needs to wear in so figured 10w might be better ... will it thin out too much though since it's coming into summer and looks to be a bloooody hot one ?

Really appreciated any help .. ive been to two auto ones (didnt even anything close at all) and the nulon (and few different brands) i found at the supercheap autos ive been too.

Edit: Forgot to also ask, in the performance upgrades setup tutorial stick i found this recommendation
"buy a cheap in-line fuel filter" will they be different sizes for different tubing? anyone know what i would be after?

something like one of these ??
-http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Ryco-Fuel-Filter-Z153K.aspx?pid=6543#details
-http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Ryco-Fuel-Filter-Z578.aspx?pid=155728#details
 
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castrol activ 4t is what I use, works well and doesn't cost too much

get a fuel filter from your local bike shop, I got mine for $5 from KTM dealer and another $5 for some decent fuel line
 
Thanks heaps fellas, picked up a couple of bottles of the Castrol Activ 4T today.
Should i also be looking at changing oi filters along the way?? Or cleaning them out in some way when i do an oil change.
In my search for some info on this subject i found a thread about changing your oil/filter and it had a pic showing where abouts the filter cover is located .. but it was a dead photobucket link. Can anyone help point me in the right direction at all.

Edit: Just found it ... it's an in-line oil filter ... how should i go about mainting this?? anything i need to do on oil changes ? Does it get replaced or cleaned? sorry for the 20 questions, google aint helping with inline filter info :/
http://img.atomik.com.au/DirtBike/ReignBigfoot160M/ReignBigfoot160M-Part3.jpg
 
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to get to the oil filter youll have to remove the whole clutch cover. its just a flat metal mesh filter. no upgrades exist for them
 
and there's never anything in them anyway, there's no need to touch the oil filter. well that's the case for 140's anyway
 
ahh looks like the 160 is different to your 140/150's or maybe not as good quality. Out of interest do you replace them with every 3-4 oil changes or anything along those lines?
 
well it's the little square mesh filter under the clutch cover you never need to change it. If it's the kind that you can take out and service then you can get a proper paper filter for it and yea change it when you change the oil

if your motor looks like this with the oil filter cover (little round bit in the middle of the picture with 2 bolts holding it on)you can service the filter, if not don't worry about it
lifan1504in.jpg
 
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it sounds like you have the 160 with the external oil filter and yes you should clean it at each oil change and wipe the swarft of your magnetic sump plug.
 
hey jordzan id really like to read a review of this bike wen its run in coz im lookin at getting this bike and would like to now how it goes !!!!

could you post some pix?
 
gday xxx-747 ... this is my first non leg powered bike so i might not be the best person to ask for a review ... but will definatlly let you know how it all goes and get some pics up asap.

So far everything is going good, changed over the oil,brake fluid,locktite etc all the stuff from the setting up your bike section here ... even on half throttle it's got some kick ... this is first time ever using a lever clutch .. first time the bike was off on the back wheel with me running after it.
Got a DID chain and uni filter for it ... havent put on the uni filter yet as not too sure about oils for it, cant find there one around. Didnt notice the bike has a KMC chain already so i might see how it goes for now .. might just be a dodgy copy who knows.
Starts up fine when i dont do it tarted style ... hope im actually going from TDC i think i am anyway .. nothing exploded yet. Handle bar clamps/bolts seem pretty dodge ... want to change out the allen key bolts for fenders to philips .... the levers and bars also seem abit how you doing but was expecting that ... carby has minaku(spelling woot) written on it, guesing its a copy though ... from what ive read here so far there is good and bad copies which makes it easy lol .. biggest problem so far is how soft the rear suspension is (im about 75kg) definatlly couldnt jump it or anything itd bottom out for sure, is there anything much i can do to make it firmer?
Oww i also got an inline fuel filter etc as it said to do in one of the bike setup how too's but the fuel tank seems to screw right onto the carbie ???
A total guess here but ide say was cruising in 4th at 60 at least on half throttle. ill get pics and some more updates up soon.

In the manual it claims a filter change with all oil changes ... is there something inside that inline filter to replace on oil changes or just clean out ? ... just doesnt seem like a throw away bit of kit ..
 
lol dude KMC is the wort chain, all pitbikes have them and they need to be taken off and burnt befor it damages your bike and possibly takes a chunk out of your leg. you can get airfilter oil from supercheap or any bike shop

you need to get your kickstarting technique locked down asap or your gonna be replacing kickstart gears and centercase very soon.
how to start it: YouTube - How to start a pit bike properly. Top Dead Center.

what you'll be doing if you don't start it properly: YouTube - How to fix broken Kick start gears, Lifan 140, Pit Bike engine

there's a little circle panel on the righhand side of the engine that gives access to the oil filter, just flush out the filter with metho or fuel every now n then.

you should replace all the main bolts like bra clamps, shock mounts, engine mounts, swingarm pivot etc with hi-tensil bolts.... hit up your local engineering supply store.
you also should get a set of low rise pro-taper bars and a 26mm oko flatslide carby because the stock ones are rubbish
 
damn though kmc was decent brand, ow well got the DID ready to go ..... will a normal bycle chain break do the job or you find a proper moto one is needed?

i had trouble understanding that vid as he doesnt really stop going through, its hard to tell when its at the right point .... does the engine releasing a puff of air have any relevance to where in the cycle i am? ive been trying to kick over After ive gotten past the hardest point .. which i thought was compression point .. how does this sound ??

how hard is it to get a new carbie on and working ok with the bike? would need to be getting jets etc or will it just plug n play out of the box ?
x
DHZ Mini Moto - OKO 26MM FlatSlide Carby Kit 1/8 Throttle 160cc
found kits on DHZ tuned ready to go apparentlly, not sure about 1/8 throttle though ... even on the stock one i was accidentlly reving when going over bumps
 
jordzan said:
i had trouble understanding that vid as he doesnt really stop going through, its hard to tell when its at the right point .... does the engine releasing a puff of air have any relevance to where in the cycle i am? ive been trying to kick over After ive gotten past the hardest point .. which i thought was compression point .. how does this sound ??
Click to expand...

I made the vid, the idea is I get it set up ready to start, return to the top when you would usually kick start and just kick it through slowly to the next compression point. And you be only JUST past the compression.

the OKO being tuned ready to go is bull****, you'll need to jet it but that's easy
 
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