Chickenwingz
Well-Known Member
Is it worth chucking a V2 head on a old 155z? I am unsure if i should as it has no oil filter and a 5 plate clutch, will it be able to handle the power if i get a BBK later?
old 155z
- Thread starter Chickenwingz
- Start date
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Just got for it the z155 a good motor I have one off them in my rx50 im gana get the 64mm kit and the v2 for that to
Its not hard on the motor maybe hd clutch springs but just try it first
I dont seam much diffrent from the 63 mm cylinder that wasent hard on the plates I cant see 1mm makeing that much diffrence
Its not hard on the motor maybe hd clutch springs but just try it first
I dont seam much diffrent from the 63 mm cylinder that wasent hard on the plates I cant see 1mm makeing that much diffrence
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Chickenwingz
Well-Known Member
stock is 60 mm, i think the 63 mm cylinder is the z175 engine. 4 mm in bore adds a reasonable amount of pressure on the rest of the engine.
a little yeah..
but less than a 160 would (on the rod) because of the lesser stroke but the clutch is the weak link along with 3rd or second gear
i have a v2 head on my 155z i have had no problems the clutch held up also
yeah prolly with the big bore
stock bore it will hold just fine
I put tb hd springs in but was still geting sum slip I had to move the bracket on the motor that holds the clutch cable
To get sum more adjustment its fine now
Chickenwingz
Well-Known Member
is there anyway to modify the old 155z to take the new 6 plate clutch?
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
with the clutch again, same question in your other thread, this is starting to get confusing again ! lol
maybe ring the suppliers i posted the link for in the other thread, and ask them ?
maybe ring the suppliers i posted the link for in the other thread, and ask them ?
Chickenwingz
Well-Known Member
I asked dhz and they said it doesn't work, everyone else said it works/should work, im very confused myself.
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
6 plate clutch kit-
http://www.ooracing.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=2027
http://www.ooracing.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=2027
Chickenwingz
Well-Known Member
would a new shift drum and gear box solve all gear shifting issues?
Shifting issues are either shimming or shift drum related if the drum has no wear/little wear then its likley to be the shimming..
and of cause worn forks (not pushing the gear over enough) so then it can jump out.
also the dogs on the gears can end up rounding off heaps and making them jump out of gear if it gets the wrong timing
Chickenwingz
Well-Known Member
what exactly is the shimming? it never jumps out of gear but sometimes the gear box gets a bit sticky and its hard to change gears, also hit dead neutrals in 3rd going to 4th sometimes.
Shims are to take up the area between the cases that the gearbox does not use, so then if you grabbed your countershaft and pulled it side to side you would have alot of play (bad) so lets say you have .5mm movement thats .5 mm more that your shift drum (or shift forks you get it tho) needs to move to fully engage the gear.. so you put a .25mm shim inside the case and reduce the end play to .25mm than your gearbox will be tighter and grab gears for longer because you can keep on going untill its at .5mm again
the movement was exaggerated the best way to do this is with a dial indicator and a magnetic base (on the cases) then you can set it up find the zero and then measure the end play exactly as to find what shim to install one time and not keep on splitting the cases (that you have to do when you do it by ass)
doing it by ass is not such a bad thing it just takes longer
also the countershaft was just a example all shafts need a bit of play but not too much..
Edit:
also as stuff wears eg bearings, shift drums, shift forks, etc the less play you had before means the more likley you can still ride even with the wear because the gear dog is further into the other gear and moving the power but if you had the slop then it would hit,round off the dog and then jump out of gear
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Chickenwingz
Well-Known Member
one of the engine base mounts (4 bolt mounts) has a snapped bolt in it, i tried extracting it with a extractor kit but it didn't budge, its nearly completely drilled out now but there is still a bit left, what do you think i could do to get the rest out?
Did you damage the theads? my advice is to drill it with a tiny drill bit then larger untill you can undoo it (relieves tension on the threads and then less friction therefor can be undone with the friction of a finger or a said farrked screwdriver (flathead or whatever) grinded so it will grab and then hammered into the old bolt
Chickenwingz
Well-Known Member
I made sure not to damage the threads when drilling the bolt, there is just a hollow bolt around the thread left, i might try just hitting it with a flat head, should do the job.
Blender
Well-Known Member
if you can, an easy out would probably be your best bet. i've had to use the on triple clamps when people have overtightened them and they've snapped the bolt inside it. 9 outta 10 times its worked. but using a flathead screwdriver would probably work also. but to ensure it comes out just spray some wd40 or inox and let it soak for a day, then spray again. good luck!
