Pit Pro 140

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Is there more of just a bolt on option, no replacing jets etc?
 
You can bolt any of the above carby's on and tune it the best you can, but rejetting help's it start better, perform better and last longer.
Jet swap's are easy enough, the hardest to pull the fuel bowl off is the Oko, but once you have done it a few time's you know what to do.
 
Buy some Yamaha carby cleaner dip (about $23 from Yamaha), mix it with water in a container then drop the stripped carby into it along with the emulsion tube, jet's, mixture screw, needle and seat, etc and let it sit overnight.
Next day wash it as best you can and blow it out well with compressed air

DSCN0312_zps2aaa465d.jpg
 
Does anyone know how many turn of the fuel mixture and idle screws should be from fully tightened?
 
1.75 turn's out on the mixture screw like i said in post 4, that should be a good starting point
 
As many as it take's it to run.
Take the air filter off and look into the carby, turn the idle speed screw out till the slide stop's moving down.
Now turn it until the slide start's to lift off the bottom of the bore, try it at 1 full turn, if it still won't start it might need a bit more
There isn't a specific setting for it
 
Alrights thanks, ill try that :) Also i wanted to ask, my bike has a Pit Racer engine in it, but i cant really find anything online about them, are they a decent engine?

Thanks :)
 
It was most likely the Importer who bought them into the country under that name, and had the engine cover's cast with that logo.
What is the engine model number, it's stamped into the engine case above the l/h foot peg mount, under the front sprocket area
Eg; 1P55FMJ
 
I reckon it would be the YX140, they weren't that strong around the engine mount's or foot peg mount's'
It's basically a cheap copy of a Lifan 140, i'm pretty sure the YX140's only had a 13mm gudgeon pin too so that's another weak point
 

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