pit pro 140xr basic mods

[pitproxr]

if youve got a 140xr or are getting one here are a few simple mods fore when you first get it

on the inside of the exhuast inlet(right near the head) youl see there is welds that join the pipe to another peice of metal that goes inside the cyclender block grind that out with a dremel or even some heavy sanding as it blocks the pipe and reduces air flow also there is a spacer that sits between the pipe and the cyclender remove that and as it blocks gas and also is very weak and slowly breakes down, i did those easy mods and felt a increase in performance( the pipe is 32 mm but when its half blocked its not)

 

[THUMPY125]

Mate next time you post check your grammer, it is shocking, there is a spell check button as well so it really can't get much easier. good mod but you actually wouldn't notice much of a power gain.

 

[anf355]

Nice one, i will have a look at that, i guess any power gain is better than none. My exhaust header bolt loosened off, now exhaust is loose, didnt realise why it was running rough til today. great bike though.

 

[tubes380]

this has been covered numerous times, the mods should either delete or move this into a existing thread to cut down on the number of useless threads and increase the sites speed.

 

[Cactus Jack]

Sounds like he's saying to totally remove the exhaust gasket (o-ring) ....... bad move ...... the pipe will eventually chew into the alloy head from vibrations , stuffing up the flat surface and causing gas leakage . He's probably got one of those crappo - el cheapo gaskets that have aluminium wound around paper material . What you do is get a copper flange gasket , and don't over tighten the nuts to fully crush it . When they get flattened , they DO hang over into the exhaust port so you simply take the pipe off again , remove the gasket , then grind the centre of it out until it clears the port and matches the pipe ...... then put it back in .......

Yes he's right ....... some pipes do have a dorky big mig weld inside that restricts exhaust gas flow and removing it makes a noticeable difference ..... the engine even sounds better ......

 

[pitproxr]

the zorst spacer/gasket recieves the most heat,i found that out wen i worked with bikes and they fell apart even if they were quality gaskets, we usualy replaced this gasket with a liquid rubber cylicon gasket(gas and heat proof) as this seales the zorst and reduces vibrations and its cheap.just squirt a few rings around the zorst header and let it dry or you can put another zorst gasket in like cactus jack said( a quality 1)

 

[motoXXX]

im still confused i wanty to do this but i cant inderstand whats happening ,

so i take my exhaust off then look inside the header end and see if there is a big weld there and if there is grind it smooth is this what u are getting at any help appreciated thanks lads

 

[pitproxr]

yer inside ur pipe they weld a small peice of metal which is smaller and goes inside your cylender head, when they weld these together they weld around the whole sinide of your pipe and it is a large protruding weld and blockes ur pipe and also when i grinded these welds out the bike sounded nicer and it was not as loud

 

[Cactus Jack]

This is the type of gasket I was referring to ..... although I'm pretty sure they're imitation copper coated steel .......

http://i22.ebayimg.com/02/i/000/a3/72/8b86_1.JPG

You CAN buy them in crap silver paper junk and also in thick aluminium foil coiled around with paper junk in between the coils but they fall apart after a short while .

XR75's used a genuine hollow copper 0-ring with some type of heat proof material inside ...... they were still good and usable after 34 years ....

Copper is far superior to anything else because it expands as it gets hot to fill out uneven gaps ..........

I've got a D-Pro pipe and it's basically a straight out pipe at the head flange .... so it'd definitely chop into the head without something in between .......