Questions about my 1996 DS80

[cb750mike]

Hey everyone!!!

Picked up a 1996 ds80 a couple months ago for $70. It was in semi rough shape but it was all there. Major stuff needing to be done was the top end had to be replaced. Exhaust header screws were wrong and ruined the threads. Various nuts and bolts were wrong and or broken. Finally after several hundred dollars its done and I got it started and running but it was running rough. Found out the pilot screw was missing. :cursing: Ended up breaking the new pilot screw in the carb trying to work it in there slowly. Had to drill it out and messed up the threads so Im hoping I didnt mess them up to bad and it'll still go in ok. If not then Ill have to order a new/used carb. Which I found one on ebay. I actually had to bore out the cylinder head (i think) 1mm-1.5mm bigger. But the kick start shaft broke on me when I was starting it for the first few times. Thinking about getting it welded since I dont want to split the case and Im having issues getting the screws out. I also had to replace the crankshaft oil seal behind the magneto. So on to the questions!! I cant find any street tires for this little booger. Only for the front! So has anyone retro fitted different (bigger) rims onto the ds80 or maybe another swingarm and forks preferably rm80 stuff? Or does anyone know where I can get street tires for it? Id love to have disc brakes as well lol :thumbup: By the way what is interchangeable between the ds80, jr80, and rm80? I got the rear shock stiffened up for my weight so I think Im going to replaced the fork oil and see if that stiffens up the front or I may add spacers. Also are there any mods that anyone has done to these things? any kind of mod it doesnt matter I like modding stuff. I also wet sanded all the plastics and gas tank to get the deep scratches out and remove the yellow faded spray paint and also grey spray paint under that. They came out PERFECT and amazingly SMOOTH!!! They look great. I painted the frame and handle bar and swingarm. Had to get rid of that ugly purple spray paint on the swingarm and handle bar. She looks mint now and 100% better then it use to. It also had the oil pump still connected so I disconnected that and pre mix my gas now. Well thanks for reading and looking at my post sorry its so long. Thanks in advance for the help. Please feel free to post the links or pictures to help me in any way.

 

[cb750mike]

So here's pictures of what it looked like when I got it and after I was done (before I realized the pilot screw was missing)

 

[my67xr]

Welcome to Minirider's.

Make sure you drop in to our Introduce Yourself thread and say hello there too,
Post up a pic of your bike etc



The kick start lever is welded on my DS80, it doesn't take a lot of weld to hold them on securely.
Just make sure you keep the oil seal behind it cool, otherwise the transmisson oil will leak there.
A brand new kick start shaft will cost you around $40, and you'd need a centre case gasket and maybe a clutch cover gasket to replace it.
The job is pretty easy to do.


Rear tyre's should be easy enough to find, 12" are used on a lot of scooter's, and mini motard bike's.
80/100/12
12 rear tire scooter | eBay

With the front fork's you could add spacer's to stiffen it up a bit, or there are aftermarket spring's available too.
You could also have some longer fork leg's made for it, but the cost start's to get high then (around $400 for a pair)
Iirc Velociraptor has changed his fork's over to longer one's or was thinking about it, check out his build thread
http://www.miniriders.com/jap-builds/40483-1999-suzuki-ds80x-7.html


Mod wise you could have the cylinder ported, and the head reshaped to give you the perfect squish.
You could fit a RM80 expansion chamber, early 80's one are easy to mod and fit.
Or look out fro a JR80 FMF expansion chamber and muffler, they interchange with the DS80
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261222288900?rmvSB=true

You could change the reed's over to Carbon Fibre one's, Boyesen reed's, single or dual stage, or if they make them some V Force 3's
ds80 reeds | eBay
Also raising the cylinder will help the engine work too, fitting a couple of thick home made gasket's on the base of the cylinder will raise it so the piston crown drop's down level with the bottom of the exhaust port on the downward stroke and can expel more gas's.
Or adding a rev plate (metal spacer) will do the same thing.


Have you checked out my build thread, and GooseMans' thread yet?
the link to mine is below in my signature.
GooseMan's is here- http://www.miniriders.com/jap-builds/37236-gooseys-ds80-build.html
There's another couple of DS80 build's here too if you search in the Jap Mini build's area


Cheer's, Craig

 

[cb750mike]

Welcome to Minirider's.

Make sure you drop in to our Introduce Yourself thread and say hello there too,
Post up a pic of your bike etc



The kick start lever is welded on my DS80, it doesn't take a lot of weld to hold them on securely.
Just make sure you keep the oil seal behind it cool, otherwise the transmisson oil will leak there.
A brand new kick start shaft will cost you around $40, and you'd need a centre case gasket and maybe a clutch cover gasket to replace it.
The job is pretty easy to do.


Rear tyre's should be easy enough to find, 12" are used on a lot of scooter's, and mini motard bike's.
80/100/12, 3.00 x 12
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...oter.TRS0&_nkw=+12+rear+tire+scooter&_sacat=0

With the front fork's you could add spacer's to stiffen it up a bit, or there are aftermarket spring's available too.
You could also have some longer fork leg's made for it, but the cost start's to get high then (around $400 for a pair)
Iirc Velociraptor has changed his fork's over to longer one's or was thinking about it, check out his build thread
http://www.miniriders.com/jap-builds/40483-1999-suzuki-ds80x-7.html


Mod wise you could have the cylinder ported, and the head reshaped to give you the perfect squish.
You could fit a RM80 expansion chamber, early 80's one are easy to mod and fit.
Or look out fro a JR80 FMF expansion chamber and muffler, they interchange with the DS80
FMF Fatty Pipe Exhaust Suzuki JR80 2001 2004 | eBay



You could change the reed's over to Carbon Fibre one's, Boyesen reed's, single or dual stage, or if they make them some V Force 3's
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=ds80+reeds&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=2
Also raising the cylinder will help the engine work too, fitting a couple of thick home made gasket's on the base of the cylinder will raise it so the piston crown drop's down level with the bottom of the exhaust port on the downward stroke and can expel more gas's.
Or adding a rev plate (metal spacer) will do the same thing.


Have you checked out my build thread, and GooseMans' thread yet?
the link to mine is below in my signature.
GooseMan's is here- http://www.miniriders.com/jap-builds/37236-gooseys-ds80-build.html
There's another couple of DS80 build's here too if you search in the Jap Mini build's area


Cheer's, Craig

Thanks for the help Craig. Now if I go with the 80/100-12 size tire do I need to get a bigger inner tube since I have 3.00-12 tire on there now?

 

[my67xr]

Oop's i just saw i wrote the wrong size ^^, i've edited it now

80/100/12 is the same size as 3.00 x 12, so you wont need a new tube when you swap them over

 

[cb750mike]

Oop's i just saw i wrote the wrong size ^^, i've edited it now

80/100/12 is the same size as 3.00 x 12, so you wont need a new tube when you swap them over

Oh ok I was wondering about that. Thanks for clarifying it up.

 

[cb750mike]

Craig I've been told that my kickstart can't be welded so can you tell me how to split the case? I have the gasket set but I'll just have to get the center gasket (for some reason that wasn't included in the kit) if I could split the case without having to take the magneto off that would be great cause the threads are screwed up on the crankshaft. Here's what my kickstart shaft looks like. I think I read somewhere someone jb welded their kick start shaft. Would that be strong enough?

 

[velociraptor]

In weld not strong enough

 

[velociraptor]

The center gasket is not an actual gasket they used rtv from he factory a lot of bikes including Yamaha now use the same idea as permatex grey for some parts. Don't quote me on this I'm no expert but it's what I've noticed at least besides with the new tech avail rtv is a lot better imo due to filling every defect from tooling ect in factory and makes a better seal.

 

[velociraptor]

I don't think I'd weld that to be honest even if you accomplished it wouldn't hold very long nor line up exact to the case bearing/ Bush just get a used one.

 

[cb750mike]

So I gotta take the magneto off again? I just had it off to replace the oil seal on the crank shaft. That was a biotch due to the crankshaft having screwed up threads. I went through 2 nuts trying to get it tight and then I realized the screws behind it were stripped. I'm gonna have a hell of a time trying to get this case split.

 

[my67xr]

I split an early rm80 air cooled engine down and replaced the kick start shaft before, left all the stator/flywheel on.

Have you taken the clutch off and the kickstart gear/spring then tried turning the kick start shaft to see if it'll unhook through the case ?

 

[cb750mike]

I split an early rm80 air cooled engine down and replaced the kick start shaft before, left all the stator/flywheel on.

Have you taken the clutch off and the kickstart gear/spring then tried turning the kick start shaft to see if it'll unhook through the case ?

No I haven't honestly, but then how would I get it to rehook back?

 

[my67xr]

Have a watch of this, it show's him fitting the start gear/spring back on at about 2.20

[video=youtube;WK_Om7jj3pk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WK_Om7jj3pk[/video]

 

[velociraptor]

The clutch ect can stay on its easy once the case is open

 

[velociraptor]

The shaft on the clutch side has the gear with thrust spring on the splines of the shaft that's about it idk about leaving the flywheel on might could try can't hurt either way you'd have to split it if not. I just re read and know what u mean had a Honda like that ended up getting a used shaft because eventually the threads refused keep the nut on and I went through a few keys. Maybe you could find a die to fit and recut the thread with a new nut for it?

 

[cb750mike]

So fixed the crankshaft and got the bike running but now I've noticed it's pouring gas out of the main jet. I took the carb apart (again) and the float moves freely. So what could be the issue? Does anyone know the stock e-clip position on the needle? Or what the bore and spigot sizes are?

 

[velociraptor]

Float height setting 25 mm from gasket seat float hieght is set by moving tab on the needle hold carb so float is just touching the needle not compressing it and check distance. If thats good check the float needle seat gasket the brass piece has a shape like a nut rarely these will leak if thats ok then you have a pickle gas pouring out is caused by a float not stopping the flow usually xr has the specs prob written down otherwise go to my build thread and just scroll i write every size torque ect down as i use them. Correct sizes depend on stock or modified components and alot of tinkering and adjustment to get just right stock or base setting are a good start but if its modified any you may need to up the size till it works right.

 

[velociraptor]

Not your fault or any kind of error if the floats off it happens just takes a tiny bump to set it off when cleaning sometimes

 

[velociraptor]

I believe pilot or idle jet is .35 correct me if im wrong i have mine a bit bigger none of my jets are stock atm