Questions about my 1996 DS80

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Yea I think I'm running 32:1 or 40:1. I'm pretty sure it's 40:1 cause I wanted to be on the safe side.
 
Lot's of spooge is too rich jetting, it might be a bit rich at 40/1, i'd try it at 32/1.

32/1 has more oil in it so it keep's everything lubed up, less likely to seize, and help's keep the compression up
 
Then maybe I'm 32:1 I did it so there was more then enough oil in there
 
Mig tip cleaner and jet cleaner i have are exact same thing? Idk maybe its brand wise idk even the rough on the file is same shape sizes going down to .019 thats prob why im one of the only ones i know uses em lol. As per oil coming out the exhaust like he said you may have the oil prox to heavy save yourself some frustration and time get a premix container i got mine for $5 measures the oil for any gallon of any mix perfect. I prefer and tell customers to use 32:1 if riding hard as muffler packing and cleaning is cheaper than worn out top ends ect. However some bikes can run 40:1 and as with equiptment the better brand bikes may even be more efficient. The only issue with a 1mm oversized bore is it may need to be retuned/jetted from stock its not a huge difference but it can change sometimes due to having more cc to displacement now. The intake tubes are actually avail on ebay pretty cheap i would maybe try to use a hair dryer or heat gun but i doubt it will stay and or ever be normal again id just get a decent used one . as with my repair contracts with a contracting comany: better to replace than wait for it to fail when you know its off and if you can afford it
 
I bought a two stroke oil with its own measuring cup and I ended up using the whole bottle of oil for 5 gal of gas. I'm pretty sure I was 32:1 cause I wanted this top end to last even though I read I could run 40:1 in it and be fine. So any idea what size jet I should get for the main jet? Also another thing I had to deal with. When I got the bike I got it running and it had no Pilot screw in it. I cleaned the hole and put a new spring and screw in but the screw didn't seem to want to go down into the hole very far. So I would thread in a little bit thread out, thread in deeper and then thread out and finally it broke when I was threading back in. So I had to drill it out. I messed up the outer lip of the
 
Screw hole so I bought a new pilot screw since the spring was unharmed and saved it. Of course when I go to put the new pilot screw in the spring falls out of my hand and disappears. So I ended up putting the pilot screw in and screwed it all the way down until it stopped and backed it out 1.5 turns out. And now it looks like where it should be at by looking at other pics of carbs with the pilot screw still in. What's your guys take? Get a new carb in case there's a leak or just stick with this one? And why wouldn't the spring allow me to go down but only a few threads?
 
I would be looking for another good carby for it.
The screw you are talking about is the mixture screw, the pilot jet is under the carby screwed into the base next to the main jet.
 
Ok I found a used one on eBay. Does it matter if it's from a jr80, or rm80? Do you know if any of the years are the same or close?
 
Due to the height of the carby's i think you'd be best off to find one off a DS80,
but you could compare the height to the JR80 carby's as they are pretty much a modern DS80
Jet's for the DS80 are easy to find, if you have an 87 in there now i'd try and get a couple of size's down to try out.
Eg a #85 and #82.5
The pilot jet's are the Mikuni VM22 type, the Main's are N100.604 type

The carby's in the link ^ you will need to check what sort of jet's they use, how easily available they are and what size jetting those Comexx carby's run, and dimension's etc
 
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I didn't see any for jr80, only rm80 and 1 for a ds80 but the seller wants $100 for a carb missing parts for the ds80.
 
Do you just need the carb body itself? Ill check what i have and can find might ne able to set up a way to send u one
 
Yea I just need the carb body and if you have the float bowl I would take that too. My carb has some serious oxidation or pitting inside the float bowl. I wasn't able to get it out. My next option was sandpaper.
 
So what a difference in the way it runs with/without the intake tube. Wow I knew it ran good with it so I decided to put it back on and at least connect it to the carb since it's like 2 cm too short. Even if I push the air box closer to it, it's not enough. Anyway it ran so much better from what would be idle and full throttle. No more hiccups going to full throttle and the power was smooth. It just won't idle off choke. Now let me ask another stupid question just to make sure I have the right mindset about the choke. You push the lever down for choke on and flip it up (level with the ground) for choke off right? Cause it idles with the choke on but won't run, it'll stall. And yes velociraptor if you could find me a carb body and possibly the float bowl that would be awesome and much appreciated cause I watched every time I rev'd it the adjustment screw would turn out half a turn. After a few laps around my neighborhood and revving it, it went from 1 1/2 turns to 3 1/4 turns out. Thanks again guys with all your help. This is my first 2stroke dirt bike.
 
Did the mixture screw turn itself out ?
If it did then take it right out and then the spring, stretch the spring so it's about 4 mm longer then refit it and the screw.
Retune it and you're good to go.
 
my67xr said:
Did the mixture screw turn itself out ?
If it did then take it right out and then the spring, stretch the spring so it's about 4 mm longer then refit it and the screw.
Retune it and you're good to go.
Click to expand...

Right now I don't have the spring in there cause it slipped out of my hand as I was putting it into the carb and grew legs and took off cause I haven't found it since. And also cause the adjustment screw doesn't go in like its suppose to with it in there. I get a couple threads in and that's it.
 
Take it to your local mechanic and ask how much for him to fit a helicoil thread repair insert into it , pretty sure it's an M5 thread?
Then go down to walmart or a hardware store and buy a new spring to replace it, just cut it to the length you need
mikuni VM20 carburetor air mixture spring

Otherwise this carby might be adaptable to the DS
mikuni 20mm carburetor
It would require a custom intake manifold though,
get some steel 27mm od tube and make up a flat flange to bolt it up to and weld it on, then use a gasket between the carby and manifold



Did you research those other Mikuni carby's you found to check the dimensions and see if they'd work ?
 
I believe that's the right size xr m5 and heck depending on where your located northern tool sells helicoil kits for one size for $10 its a kindof helical for dummies kit with drill tap 5 or so inserts and special tool if your calm slow confident and careful it May work if not seek a mechanic. I believe mikuni makes replacement carbs for this depending on the amount you want to spend on sure fix wouldn't an older 80s model rm 80 carb work?
 
if you still havent done it i was thinking maybe you could just drill trough the middle of the shaft both parts thread the one in the engine and bolt it
 
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