Read switch clearance?

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mudskipper

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THis question rolls on from my ignition problems specifically relating to the flywheel.
Is there a measurement (exact) for clearance from read switch on flywheel to magnetic read switch receiver?
Bike shop suggested a credit card spacing but that is not what i call accurate.
Is there any guidelines around relaing to feeler guage measurements etc?

Problem relates to 12v ac input at rectifier.
 
if there is a problem with the igniton i usually set it so it touches then back it off a bit so i can see a gap (not large then tighten it again
 
Ah sweet ill give it a crack when imm next home.. I moved it as close as i could get it but its still millimetres away, i can elongate the holes to make the gap. Its an aftermarket setup from the shop so it could be some rejigging is needed.
Thanks for the quick responses.
 
are you talking about the sensor at the back of the flywheel on the outside.
that is there to tell the CDI unit when to fire and send power to the ignition coil.


the AC power at the rectifier is sent from the lighting coil inside the flywheel.
the 2x wires that come from the lighting coil on the stator plate, are a yellow wire and a white wire, or yellow and yellow
 
didn't even register that last sentence, if it runs then dont worry about adjusting it as it has nothing to do with the ac going to your rectumfryer
 
are you talking about the sensor at the back of the flywheel on the outside.
that is there to tell the CDI unit when to fire and send power to the ignition coil.


the AC power at the rectifier is sent from the lighting coil inside the flywheel.
the 2x wires that come from the lighting coil on the stator plate, are a yellow wire and a white wire, or yellow and yellow

Sensor at the back of the flywheel runs blue + green/white from memory so that makes sense, but I did not get a voltage on the pins at the wiring loom.
uh my rectifier has yellow/yellow out putting the 12V ac.
is 12V off the lighting coil a problem? should I be expecting around 36V?

There is also another sensor set above the front sprocket with a green/red wire but has been cut out, is this an essential component?

thanks for the continuous input guys, its keeping my hopes alive.
PS bike does not run at all.
 
brain fart* sensor for the CDI, reading your statement tells me it is like control wiring and should not really be giving off a large voltage.
 
thats right no voltage on the back trigger coil/sensor,
if you want to check it you'll need a multimeter
set it to 200 Ohms, run one lead to the blue with white stripe, the other lead goes to earth on the motor.
it should read around 110 Ohms if it's good.

the green wire with a red stripe is for start only in neutral bikes.
most times it is disconnected.


the lighting coil can also charge batterys too,
put 1 lead from your multimeter to one of the yellows, and the other lead to an earth on the motor.
you should get above 12volts from 1 wire,
then run the lead to the other yellow, and other lead to an earth,
you should get maybe 3-5 volts from the other yellow.

the lower voltage wire is used to trigger the regulator/rectifier to work, and you should get around 12 volts at idle, with a maximum voltage of 14 volts at higher rpms.



sounds like the source coil may not be working, it is the smaller coil, inside the flywheel, on the stator plate.
to test that, set your multimeter to 2000 Ohms
run 1 lead to earth, and the other lead to the black w/red stripe wire coming from the stator.
it should read around 380 Ohms if it's ok.
 
forgot your bike isn't running,

another test for the lighting/charge coil
set your meter to 200 ohms again, run one lead to one yellow, then the other lead to the other yellow
you should get about .8 Ohms if it's ok

with this coil not working properly, it wont stop the bike from running/starting
 
measuring each yellow at rectifier to earth reads less than 1Vac on each.. must be doing something wrong.
measuring across the two yellow I get 12Vac with an output from the rectifier at 9Vdc

black/red stripe to earth...... 6.8M ohm on auto.
if this is a definite sign of a fault in the winding, is it worth pulling off the stator and testing *assuming 3 windings separately before I send it back to motorbike city for a replacement?
just to get an accurate reading.
 
* I have previously tested the lighting coil for continuity and it has tested out ok.
 

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