Really Bad Kickback On My PitPro XR 140cc

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i dont mean to go off topic but if i give my bike any throttle at all it sounds like im choking the engine when i try and start it.

every bike is different man you just gotta learn what works with your bike.

i know its pain in the arse, im a small guy so kicking my bike is such a b*tch, its one of those things though you just gotta drink some cement and deal with it.
 
thats exactly what i was thinkin. harden up mate. you will get use to it and after a while it wont hurt anymore so just push through an look at the bright side once you start it you get to ride it.. my dhz 150 sometimes felt like it was seized but then it give me a wicked kick but ehhh at least you can ride it
 
DvDRip said:
nah mitch don't hold the throttle open when you start it or you flood the engine, if you're having trouble sometimes the tinyest bit of throttle can help.

fools my 140 kicks back pretty hard, after a couple kickbacks without boots you wanna jump off and kick the shit out of the bike as revenge :p
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My 150 will only start with full throttle, i dont know why, it will not start on 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 or with the choke on it will kick fine when warm though, holding the throttle open can help with starting a flooded engine i was always told, as long as she starts, but like everyone is saying all bikes are different, good luck with it mate its worth a look into anyway considering your drama.
 
stupid kick back you wait till you start it kicks back and u hit your front break resivoir with a extra long bolt coming through it OUCH it really hurts..
 
XxFMXxX said:
If you slowly kick it past the hard part then give it a big kick it should'nt kick back because you have already past the part where it's just about to fire if you know what I mean
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Yeh, thats the thing.
When we know we have passes the resisting part and we kick it still seems to kickback.
Should you bring it to the top and kick it as soon as you feel it give way?
Cause dad seemed to wait around and the top for afew seconds, maybe thats why.

Thanks, Mitch.
 
yeh thanks for all your help guys,
and for the people telling me to toughin up, whether its a joke or not,
im not complaining about how hard it is and how much pain its putting me through I just would like a solution to it :)

Thanks, Mitch.
 
how's the compression? when you get to the hard part is it really hard to kick past it? it looks like you've done a fair bit of riding so it's probably time to do the valve clearances
and is your oil cooler lines coming from the head or the crankcase? I ask this becuz my YX's cam timing was advanced when I got it so you should probably check that
 
After you pass the compression point you need to bring the lever back up the the top and give it a long, hard kick all the way down to the bottom. This makes the piston fly through the next compression point so it wont kick back and so you have more chance of starting it.
 
Wow kick start technique has helped out heaps starts after 3rd or 4th kick now :D
 
DvDRip, the compression is very hard to kick past
when im trying to kick start it, sometimes its like hitting a brick wall, it wont budge.
I will try and have a look where the oil cooler lines are coming from.

Thanks, Mitch.
 
4 stroke bike yeah, means there are four strokes to complete a full combustion sequence

suck: air and fuel are drawn in due to the piston travelling downwards, inlet valve open, exhaust valve closed

squeeze: air fuel mixture is compressed as piston travels up, both valves are closed

bang: air fuel mixture is ignited around TDC(depends on timing), the igniton sends the piston back down the bore, both valves are closed

blow: the gases produced by the combustion are pushed out due to the piston travelling back up, exhaust valve ope, inlet valve closed

basic overview of the 4 stroke, so ideal starting spot would be after the compression stroke
________
red headed Webcams
 
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Suck .. Squeeze ... Bang ... Blow ..... Almost sounds pornographic !!!!!!!

You have :

1) The Induction/intake cycle ... ie Intake stroke ...

2) The compression cycle ... ie Compression stroke ...

3) The combustion cycle ... ie POWER stroke ...

4) The exhaust scavenging cycle ... ie Exhaust stroke ...

You ideally want to start the kick just at the start of the power stroke which comes just after true top dead centre ... Kick HARD and FAST starting with the lever right at the top ... What that does is use the inertia / momentum of the crank counterweights / flywheel and oil slinger to absorb most of the load of any kickback attempt rather than the gears , cases , kick starter shaft / lever plus your foot from copping the full force ... You could even try fitting a press button kill switch and practice holding it in then letting your thumb off it half way thru OR even near the bottom of a hard and fast kick ...

Putting the engine in gear then rolling it back 'til it locks is simply another way of getting the piston to just after TDC on the power stroke ... and that's precisely how super high compression methanol burning speedway bikes are started ... NO kick start mechanism (it would have to have huge heavy shafts and gears) or riders legs could handle their brutal compression let alone a kick back so they are always bump started ... A 15 to 1 compression 80 HP 500 cc engine in a 180 lb bike with a trials tire on the rear requires a special technique to start ... So the same starting techniques will make ANY lesser bike even easier to start ...

Here's an old thread I just dug up ... It has a mountain of info in it ...

http://www.miniriders.com.au/tech-talk/17014-lifan-140-chewing-gears.html
 
its interesting that the model nitro 4strokes are easier to start by actually flicking them backwards against compression.... using kickback to an advantage, so to speak...


why am i saying this on a bike forum?:confused: cause it relates to kickback, dont it?:p
 
When bike engines kick back , the starter gears are rotated in reverse ... the ratchet teeth lock the kicker drive gear to the kick starter shaft during starting ... IF the engine kicks back with the lever up at the top and the ratchet engaged , the limiter on the shaft which controls the lever resting angle/position gets smashed hard against the stop and locks dead ... that's when the case goes kerrraaack and or gear teeth break off ... so you definitely want to make sure you're on the start of the power stroke when you begin the kick ... NO limp legging it and letting your foot slip off the lever ... which allows it to flick back up and smash hard on the stop if the ratchet teeth fail to release quick enough ... When the piston hits the next compression stroke and the ignition fires , you want the lever to be moving fast and lower than horizontal with the engine ... and if it does kick back hard ... allow your leg to absorb the force in a controlled manner ... no letting the lever whip back up on its own ...
 
I have the same kick back problem with my brand new yx 140cc kicks back like a horse.
The trick is to kick it with your heel and not your toes or ball of feet. that your ankle doesnt almost snap lol
How do I know when I'm at the top of the power stroke ? without taking anything apart
 
skeetskeet said:
I have the same kick back problem with my brand new yx 140cc kicks back like a horse.
The trick is to kick it with your heel and not your toes or ball of feet. that your ankle doesnt almost snap lol
How do I know when I'm at the top of the power stroke ? without taking anything apart
Click to expand...

Read through the thread. Its all there..........
 
i think the most common error in people kicking a bike over is failure to kick all the way through the storke of the kick start lever.
 
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