Rear brake not working .... :{

[jaydogz]

I attempted to bleed my brake fluid as my rear brake had began to start jamming when getting hot... once i had bleed my brakes and tried my brake the brake would not work at all, i can press the pedal all the way down and the brake will not work...

I read on another thread to release the screw up top that holds in the brake cable to brake system to release air so i tried this but it still doesnt work...

Any idea.........?

 

[sean01]

sounds like you have bled all the fluid out of the system...

you need to unscrew the top off the slave cylinder and check the oil level unless you have the type with the little plastic reservoir.either way see if its empty...also there should be a little sight glass on the slave cylinder but sometimes its hard to see if theres anything in there..

 

[DvDRip]

you bled them wrong, if you let air into the brake lines they're f@#ked. look up how to bleed the air out and just keep bleeding them until they work again

 

[jaydogz]

you bled them wrong, if you let air into the brake lines they're f@#ked. look up how to bleed the air out and just keep bleeding them until they work again

correct i did bleed them wrong, how do you bleed the air out....?

 

[DvDRip]

I don't know, I think I've actually got the same problem, just my brakes are too soft. I've heard that raising the caliper above the cylinder while bleeding helps the air to rise out of the system. and if that fails a bike shop should have some kind of vacuum power bleeder.

 

[rach88]

watch this.. helped me heaps and i used the method to get air out of my brakes.. now i have two working front brakes for one bike lol.. never buy until you have tried and tried and tried to fix your brakes first! masterspoon

 

[jaydogz]

I don't know, I think I've actually got the same problem, just my brakes are too soft. I've heard that raising the caliper above the cylinder while bleeding helps the air to rise out of the system. and if that fails a bike shop should have some kind of vacuum power bleeder.

Any other ways to remove air from the brakeline....?

 

[sean01]

the link for masterspoons method is about all you have...
only other way is a vacuum bleeder as mentioned which pulls the fluid thru from the caliper end...

just make sure that when you open the bleeder nipple you have the brake pedal pressed down and leave it pressed down until you tighten the nipple again. you can do the same with the brake line bolt on the slave cylinder.

one other thing that comes to mind is your local auto parts store should sell a brake bleed line that has a one way valve in it so you can connect that to the nipple and just keep pumping the brake pedal slowly while keeping the fluid level up in the master cylinder.
every now and then tighten the nipple and give the pedal a good couple of pumps and see if the brakes are getting better.

 

[JML]

you can use a clear hose into a bottle with a small amount of brake fuild in it. attach the other end on to the bleed nipple make sure it is a tight fit. open the nipple, depress the brake lever and hold the lever do not let go until to tighten the nipple, release the lever pump it once or twice and then repeat the process .you will see bubbles in the line keep doing it until it is just fluid in the line

make sure you check the level of brake fluid as you go.

ensure it dose not fall below the minimum line.

 

[jaydogz]

you can use a clear hose into a bottle with a small amount of brake fuild in it. attach the other end on to the bleed nipple make sure it is a tight fit. open the nipple, depress the brake lever and hold the lever do not let go until to tighten the nipple, release the lever pump it once or twice and then repeat the process .you will see bubbles in the line keep doing it until it is just fluid in the line

make sure you check the level of brake fluid as you go.

ensure it dose not fall below the minimum line.

How is this different from the normal bleeding process....? i understand the different steps but how does it help remove air from the line....?

 

[sean01]

it doesnt help remove, it stops air getting back in as it can only suck fluid

 

[dafunk]

also bleed at the banjo bolts

 

[DvDRip]

I don't understand, how do you bleed at the bango bolts?

my rear brake was soft as hell for months and no matter how much I bled it it just wouldn't harden up, I pulled the caliper off and found the pins the caliper is supposed to float on were seized, so I pulled them out n greased em up and the brake works pretty good now, I've got a 140xr too so might be worth checking

 

[sean01]

ok, on a brake system full of air or that has been bled dry you bleed in this order...
pump it up and hold it down and crack the banjo bolt on the slave (do this a couple of times) then move onto the next banjo bolt and repeat the same, then finally do the bleed nipple...remember to keep the fluid up to it..
repeat this process a couple of times until your happy

and yeah the slide pins will fook you around if they are seized

 

[DvDRip]

ok makes sense. but when you say slave you mean the caliper end right? then you say move on to next bango bolt, would that mean the one on the master cylinder?

 

[sean01]

lol you just picked up a mistake i made...too much going on here....kids hasselin me with the psp

ill re do it ..look for the changes

pump it up and hold it down and crack the banjo bolt on the master (do this a couple of times) then move onto the next banjo bolt and repeat the same, then finally do the bleed nipple...remember to keep the fluid up to it..
repeat this process a couple of times until your happy

 

[DvDRip]

sweet, that sounds allot more logical. I'm gonna try this tomorrow n see if there's any room to improve even more. I noticed the brake fluid I was using has tiny little bubbles in it, should be worried about that?

 

[sean01]

depends wat the bubbles are...water or air?

 

[DvDRip]

I dunno I'm gonna look in the morning, both are bad right? it's shitty no-name stuff I found in the shed I might just get some castrol to be safe

 

[sean01]

lol, yeah may be condensation. if the bubbles are in the bottle it wont be air...i thought you were referring to the fluid in yr brakes...

if its water than it can reduce the boiling point of the fluid and not to mention cause parts to corrode.