Thanks very much Thump for that, I was kind of hoping you would help me out on this one anyway.
Yes the point of all this research was basically because I have never done this before as I've owned a Yamaha which I never actually touched the parts of. It's no doubt going to be an experience to properly operate and care for a machine like this and I can't wait to do it, since there were barely anything to touch with my Yamaha it sort of turned me away from riding it and I got less and less caring for it.
So to put this clear for me after the initial setup of the bike you recommend the following;
- Changing the oil *Drain transport oil, change for Castrol 4t - I used a litre to fill mine, bigger oil coolers.*
- Bleed and feed the brake pads *My brakes worked fine from the get-go, but if you experience trouble with them, bleed the brakes to ensure there are no bubbles in the lines. Brake pads are fine, and offer plenty of bite.*
- Loctite everything *Loctite engine mount bolts, any bolts on the frame that you dont want coming off, the small screws in the muffler end cap, reach adjuster grub screw in the clutch lever, rear shock mounts. Things like bolts for plastics, pinch bolts on forks and triple clamps, dont loctite. *
- Turn the air screw back 2 1/2 turns so it's not rough in Idle. *Remove the standard jetting as soon as you get the bike, replace the pilot jet with the #39 or #40 pilot. Replace the #112 main jet with a #100 or #102 main.* (note when i made my first air screw adjustment, it was done with stock jetting in the bike. It's now 1 and a 1/2 turns out)
- Change the right leg to 225ml of 5w oil. *Remove forks from bike, drain BOTH forks of oil. Replace with 225ml of 5w oil. If you weigh under 70kg, fill with 200ml of 5w oil.*
*another good thing to check for, is that the clickers on the suspension have all been set equally... ie: rebound and compression adjusters on forks are both set at the same amount of clicks... easiest way to check this, is to wind them all the way in, then wind them out ten clicks each. This will set them roughly in the middle. Do the same with the rear shock, wind it all the way out, then wind out 8 clicks.*
Modifications
- Rear Shock Cover *Can be acheived by cutting a section of old tyre tube, wrapping around shock, zip tie to upper shock body.*
- Replace Fuel Cap *Stock fuel cap isnt machined correctly. Replace before filling with fuel. If you get a bike from the second order, this should be fixed*
Rear Brake Lever? *Remove from bike, using a grinder cut a small chamfer on the lever where it snags on the engine bolt on the clutch cover.*
New Bearings? *Depends on your bike. If your bearing collapse, replace them. otherwise leave them*
Carby Intake (Cutting the Adapter)? * havent had any issues with mine. Seats perfectly, have left mine alone*
If you have issues with the throttle sticking, remove the throttle from the bars, check to see if there are any lips or casting dags on the throttle tube. Using a file or dremel, smooth inner throttle tube if necessary until there are no raised bits that can catch on the bars.
If this has been done, and the throttle is still sticking, go onto OKO Australia - Flatslide Carburettors and seach for part number #3050. That's the angled cap. Bout $30...
Now for your little edit so I know exactly what needs to be done to the bike.
Thanks heaps thump
Hey Kreston, my suggestions are marked by *'s..... Hope that helps
