trellis frame

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themountain

themountain

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Question : cheapa§§ chinck trellisframe....good or hands off..??:confused:
 
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dude them frames r shit house house i had 1 like 3 years ago like that got it of dhz and i snapd it clean in half in betwwen the tank mounts and the sub frame crakd in half
 
What ?????? The twin railed trellis monster frames ?????? I doubt if DHZ even had 'em 3 years ago ... Their twin pipe cradle frames were weak and broke there tho' ... and that's because they were made from the smooth textured metal ... Only the original SDG "A" arm frames were actually made from moly ...

I definitely can't see ANY CRF style single back bone frame that's the same diameter of a stock CRF 50 frame being stronger than a twin trellis ... regardless of what it's made of ... I'd love to get some of the fancy brand named high buck frames and test their breaking strain under controlled destructive tests via hydraulic press ... The pressure gauge doesn't lie ...
 
so that is then a "yes ,get it" , huh??...can get this thing for 100 bucks...haha..can´t go wrong !!
 
It's up to you ... cheap at the price so you should easily be able to recoup your cash if you're not happy ...

They're tall (seat height 820 mm with 14/12 wheels) ... and they're heavy ... weighing 7 KG's ... plus they take 730 mm long forks ... so you'll have a mid sized bike which I thought you don't like ... The welds on the frames I bought off ebay look a bit ugly ... but they're a lot better on the complete new DHZ YX150 bike I've got here ... It seems to me that a lot of factory seconds parts are flogged off on ebay ... ie some chinese welder/worker had a bad hangover and couldn't see properly that day ... so the welds aren't up to visual standard for the production line assembled bikes ..

Does the frame you've shown take KLX plastics ? ... I'd prefer a Pit Pro type KLX frame ...
 
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thebike003.jpg



thats what the bike will end up like as cactus said.

i have just finished building it using the same exact frame.
 
i built a bike with the same frame from DHZ... pretty solid little item, havent had any hassles with it, and i'm on the heavy side for a minirider... (88kg, 5'11")
the only problem i have had with it, is the rake on the forks... tend to be a bit on the chopper side of things, which makes jumping a little tricky, however straight line stability is pretty damn solid for a mini... back end wont kick out with these babies... as mentioned by other guys, these are a tall bike, but the weight isnt that noticeable... they are built pretty accurately, without too many dramas in regards to tank, seat, engine and plastics mounting.
the only problem is getting a good fit with the exhaust where the muffler botlts to the frame... will definately pay to source a large diameter pipe eg H-Bomb from either DHZ or TDKJohnson from ebay.... otherwise they hang a bit on the low side, as seen in the pic above from zumanity....
and no, they dont seem to take KLX plastics tank or seats...
minis123.jpg

minis116jpg3.jpg
 
Yes as far as I can tell the Pit Pro's have a single rail trellis frame ... I actually meant to say "Pitster Pro" ... I didn't mean to imply that the KLX type frame itself was stronger , just that I like the look of KLX plastics better ...
 
well...lets try it...I will run it with an +4"A-style swinger ...have to cut the shock support a bit, but I guess that won´t be an issue !
 
That's the way dude ... Be adventurous and 'ave a go ... :p ... I can help you out with geometry and fabrication suggestions since I have the frames plus 4" longer "A" swingers here to compare to an assembled straight swinger bike ...
 
i have the same frame and jump my bike pretty hard....

never had a problem

the trellis frames are regarded as very good
 
Yeah I was just being cautious since from what I've read , the mountain is fairly heavy and jumps his bikes pretty hard ... He's used to higher quality built up Honda CRF50 sized 10" bikes which are also fairly lightweight and easier to chuck around ...

Here's a TT thread debating the pro's and con's of midsized bikes ...

Mid-Size bikes are HOT!!! Why? - ThumperTalk

Pops Yoshimura used to say (in reference to stock Honda engine parts) ... ''You can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear" ... So in relation to cheap chinese frames (depending on what he gets) ... As long as he accepts that "You can't make a croc skin wallet out of a fags nut sack " ... Hell be fine ... :p
 
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not sure how you'll go fitting an a-frame swingarm to this frame. the shock mount would have to be made too far forward of the standard shock mount point on the trellis frame, which may not fit between the rails of the subframe, and the shock itself would mount too high, as the trellis frame subsection above the shock mount is much taller than an a-frame shock compaitble frame... which would result in a pretty severe shock and swingarm angle... which in turn creates problems with chain derailings and tension on the countershaft sprocket as the chain would need to be run pretty tight to stop it from coming off....
i'd be doing a hell of a lot of measuring with tape measure and protractor first, cause i reckon the heights and angles may be insurmountable if using an a-frame swingarm...
mind you having said that, it may just fit. let us know how it goes!!
 
thump*140 said:
not sure how you'll go fitting an a-frame swingarm to this frame. the shock mount would have to be made too far forward of the standard shock mount point on the trellis frame, which may not fit between the rails of the subframe, and the shock itself would mount too high, as the trellis frame subsection above the shock mount is much taller than an a-frame shock compaitble frame... which would result in a pretty severe shock and swingarm angle... which in turn creates problems with chain derailings and tension on the countershaft sprocket as the chain would need to be run pretty tight to stop it from coming off....
i'd be doing a hell of a lot of measuring with tape measure and protractor first, cause i reckon the heights and angles may be insurmountable if using an a-frame swingarm...
mind you having said that, it may just fit. let us know how it goes!!
Click to expand...

Good one!!
This are exactly my concerns, but if there is a model out there for A-style, I will give it a go!!

Thanks Boys for all the help!!;)
 
OK Andy , I've done a mock up check for you ...

The straight swingarms that come on bikes with those frames are 455 mm long (overal length) ... The "A" arm I used to check with is a 435 mm overall length SDG type (the good strong type) that looks the same as a straight swinger but has oval braces welded on to support the shock mount ...

With the "A" swinger held at the exact same angle as the stock straight swinger and pivot centres aligned to give the stock geometry that works with those frames ... there is 180 mm distance between the swingarm and frame shock mount bolt hole centre lines and the shock angle would be around about 70 degrees ... maybe a bit less ... but still pretty steep compared to the shock angle that's normally run with "A" swingers ...

You have the room to move the shock mount hole further forward on the frame by 35 mm and still be able to get the shock bolt in ... basically dead in line with the centre line of that silly star shape that's been punched out in the mount ... You could go further forward ... but you'd have to fit the shock mount bolt with the sub frame removed ... There's plenty of room between the rails ... You'd be limited to a 240 mm shock maximum ... unless you altered the shock mount on the swingarm as well ... Shocks to suit "A" arm set ups are usually smaller in diameter which helps them to clear the frame back bone rails ...

Maybe you can get a shorter Fox air shock or something or a custom made Elka ? I wouldn't trust anything with less than a 16 mm shaft ... You could also drill holes in each end of a length of square tubing and go solid (Hard tail) with a springer seat ... :p

It'd obviously be much simpler to go with a straight arm ...
 
Thanks alot Cactus for the measurements...yes I got a foxshock ,its 260mm and my swinger got 450mm between the rearaxle and frameaxle...??its pretty huge:D ...anyway I guess I have to remove the shocksupport completely and have to weld it on much more forward and a bit down,if I can´t get a frame with the a-style geometry...lets wait and see what the seller tells me !;)
 
thump*140 said:
i built a bike with the same frame from DHZ... pretty solid little item, havent had any hassles with it, and i'm on the heavy side for a minirider... (88kg, 5'11")
the only problem i have had with it, is the rake on the forks... tend to be a bit on the chopper side of things, which makes jumping a little tricky, however straight line stability is pretty damn solid for a mini... back end wont kick out with these babies... as mentioned by other guys, these are a tall bike, but the weight isnt that noticeable... they are built pretty accurately, without too many dramas in regards to tank, seat, engine and plastics mounting.
the only problem is getting a good fit with the exhaust where the muffler botlts to the frame... will definately pay to source a large diameter pipe eg H-Bomb from either DHZ or TDKJohnson from ebay.... otherwise they hang a bit on the low side, as seen in the pic above from zumanity....
and no, they dont seem to take KLX plastics tank or seats...
minis123.jpg

minis116jpg3.jpg
Click to expand...

hey mate just wondering bout your forks. are they any good i wanna buy a set for my bike and was just wonderin how good are they. i just want a cheap set.
 
themountain said:
Thanks alot Cactus for the measurements...yes I got a foxshock ,its 260mm and my swinger got 450mm between the rearaxle and frameaxle...??its pretty huge:D ...anyway I guess I have to remove the shocksupport completely and have to weld it on much more forward and a bit down,if I can´t get a frame with the a-style geometry...lets wait and see what the seller tells me !;)
Click to expand...

On these frames you can't go any lower or any more further forward than I've stated since the distance between the edge of the top sub frame mount tube that's welded to the frame and the stock shock mount hole centre line is only 65 mm ... 65 + 180 = 245 mm ... The new shock mount hole centre would have to be far enough back from that cross tube to allow for the end of the shock eye to clear ... For instance IF you used an I-shock , the mount hole centre would need to be 15 mm back at the 230 mm point to stop the shock end from scrubbing out on the top sub frame attachment (threaded cross bar ... just check where I'm referring to on Thump 140's pic) ... I-shocks are only 12 mm from the bolt centre to the outside of the shock ...

I checked the swingarm I've got and the top shock mount centre line is 50 mm back from the frame pivot centre line ... (to a 90 degree angle drawn thru the rear axle and swingarm pivot centres) ... IF your swingarm has the shock mount centre line back further than that ... ie 80 mm when measured the same way ... Then your 260 mm shock would work and give the same swing arm angle as a stock bike ... There's nothing stopping you from jacking the ass of the bike up a bit higher via a steeper swingarm angle ... but you'd need to lift the front also ... probably requiring 750 mm long forks ... a down fall to that could be that the chain might rub too hard ...

I doubt very much if they make those frames to suit "A" swingers ...
 
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