YX 140cc modifications

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you've been riding to many ktm 520's and going back the the yx140 you feel it lacks torque..........mayb???
 
T&G , you turfed the stock crap IRK and fitted a Lifan 150 Daytona type ORK which has a much heavier rotor ... Did it go straight on or did you have to alter it ? ... Also , how reliable have you found the YX150 to be ? ... There's nuthin' like hearin' it from someone who's already done it all ... Cheers ...
 
The IRK will cause you problems, it has to go. The outer rotor kit did actually need a bit of tweaking now you mention it... The flywheel was rubbing on the stator plate. I had to machine a groove about 1mm deep in the plate to clear the back of the flywheel. There must be a slight difference in the length of the crank or the cases or something.

As for reliabilty, I've done about 300 or 400kms on the road and I reckon the rings are already tired. And the clutch was shit. Right from the very first run it slipped. New springs fixed that. Mines got a 63mm piston, +1mm zzr250 compression rings should fit. I got a standard zzr piston from the wreckers and checked it all out. The oil ring is a different thickness so I'm not to sure if it can be made to work. Might be able to use the chinga expander and jap scrapers? I was to cheap to buy them but when I strip it down next I'll buy a set. Other than that, its all good. I hear a lot of people are having trouble with the 160cc motor, no sign of trouble with my bearings/gears/cases yet. Fingers crossed.

I'm pretty happy with the yx150. No complaints. Took some fiddling and some money but now its sorted it runs super strong. Dyno-ed at 16hp with the tyre slipping on the roller :)
 
Thanks for the quick reply mate ! ... The combined thickness of the Lifan ORK's two backing plates IS pretty thick ... So you could simply thin one of the plates out in a lathe to clear the rotor ...

I take it that the 16 rear wheel HP is with a TB-V2 head and cam , high compression 63 mm bore = 165.21 cc ... plus the Lifan ORK ... Did you change the stock 2 piece oil slinger ? ... and what sized carb are you running ? ... Is your TB-V2 stock or ported ? And what type and diameter pipe are you running ? ... You've never had problems with the clutch damper rubbers ? ... Did your engine run smoother with less vibration when running the Lifan ORK over the stock IRK ? ... Cheers mate ...
 
My V2 head is ported, and comp is at about 11.5:1. The head has been machined and I don't run a base gasket. Cam timing has been set accurately with a slotted sprocket and a japanese timing chain and a manual tensioner. Stock oil slinger. 28mm oko flatslide 45 pilot and 130 main. 32mm mandrel bent stainless header. No issues with clutch rubbers yet. I never ran this motor with the IRK. I don't like them, and I need a charge circuit on the road bikes.
Theres a pic of the bike in my gallery :)
 
Thanks for the info mate ... it's greatly appreciated ... I'll bet the Lifan ORK rotor weight dampens harmonic buzz and crank pulsing (oscillations) and that in turn prevents the alloy part of the stock YX slinger from separating from the steel splined hub and in turn also stops the clutch basket from being micro "jack hammered" to death over time ... It can also save the tranny gears too ...
 
DHZ has had billet alloy slingers for years now !!!! ...

Ha Ha Ha ... That Kurlon guy was shown to not know what he's talking about when he claimed that long stroke engines last longer and are more reliable than short strokers ... He also claimed that balancing flywheels was crap ... Loncins have drilled balancing dimples as stock and so do Lifan 150 ORK's ... Just because someone has an undrilled stock flywheel on their engine means Jack sh*t ... the same Kurlon broke about 5 cranks which says it all ... LOL ...

Yx Question - Planet Minis

http://www.miniriders.com.au/tech-talk/20298-irk-what-do-you-think-2.html

http://www.miniriders.com.au/tech-talk/8223-cost-machining-oil-slinger-inner-rotor-kit-3.html
 
hey mate ive bought a nitrous 140cc and i have put:
*big bore exhaust 32mm steps tp 42mm
*uni air filter
*pro taper bars
*quick twist throttle
*high rev cdi
*monster energy sticker kit
*rim lock
and know my bike is trick as and it runs so well and can keep up with 250's
mate it is awesome as i bought my bike brand new from ebay from atomik (stock) for $690 plus $400 on upgrades and it is awesome. i think i am the cheapest to buy 1 on ebay. lolz
 
Cactus Jack said:
DHZ has had billet alloy slingers for years now !!!! ...

Ha Ha Ha ... That Kurlon guy was shown to not know what he's talking about when he claimed that long stroke engines last longer and are more reliable than short strokers ... He also claimed that balancing flywheels was crap ... Loncins have drilled balancing dimples as stock and so do Lifan 150 ORK's ... Just because someone has an undrilled stock flywheel on their engine means Jack sh*t ... the same Kurlon broke about 5 cranks which says it all ... LOL ...
]
Click to expand...

:D..leave Kurlon alone Jack..he^s a cool dude!!:rolleyes::rolleyes::p
 
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HAHAHAHA...no, not really...first quote was more sarcastic...good thing is he`s being busy with other things and not online this often !:D
 
hey Julian
what size uni filter have you put on your nitrous 140? I have one myself and have been looking at a uni filter but the current filter says 42mm and all i can find is a 40 and 44mm uni-filter
cheers
 
Hey i have a 140cc atomik nitrous but i have a atomik 140cc atomik nitrous and when ever i ride and then takemy hand off the throttle i will slow down n just kepp going n the throttle isnt stuck what could this be???
 
try turning down ur rev screw if that dosent work it could be the neede on the end of the cable that gose into the carbie l i had the same proplem on my 140 it was a bent needel it would go but wen i slowd down it would get stuck in the carbie
 
Ok but if that needle was bent wouldent it make it idle funny and when i turn the idle screw down it always stalls when i stop n pull the clutch in
 
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