Yx 160cc issues HELP!!!

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Wish I did spend a little more for an ork but too late now I think this one will get me running and I just been given a spare one.
 
Analogue as in a non digital gauge, get a good seal on the head with the gauge and hold the throttle flat and give it a few kicks 4 or 5, if you havent had the throttle wide open then try this first before worrying if the valves are seating properly, and the reading your after is 140 to 150PSI would be best.
 
not to much oil mate half a capful maybe(a soft drink cap) you could quickly stand the bike up on its rear wheel to get it around the whole piston and i would recommend kicking it once or twice with no plug in, oil does not compress and if you bent a valve or damaged a kick start gear you would be pissed lol
 
Ok i did a cold compression test first and got 115psi. I then put a teaspoon of oil in and stood the bike upright and kicked motor over twice to spread oil. Then did wet cold compression test and got 140psi. After every 12 seconds the gauge would drop by 5psi. I'm not getting near 150psi. I have no oil to kick motor over and do hot test not sure how much difference I would get with a hot start. Should I take head off and check vales are seating and check rings? I don't really want to do what I don't have too if you know what I mean
 
140psi will be fine mate, the reason it drops maybe due to not being sealed very tight in the head and may not represent a leaky valve, id recommend putting oil in the engine(900ml) and running it then testing and you will prob find it picks up, but right now 140 is a very good reading still. I wouldn't be worried with pulling the head off mate, give it a run and all should be sweet.
 
Right pull the head off today and regroups and reseated valves. There was a little carbon build up on the in take valve. All clean now and seating good. Put new head gasket and re assembled motor. Now the barstard won't start I could maybe be out on timing but I did mark it all. Looks like someone has had the head off b4. So timing may be out. Only good thing that came out of today was my gears freed up now I'm able to select all gears. I'm gunna go tommoro to bike shop to get spaces for the rear rim then hopefully b able to roll start the thing if it will start by roll starting or not! I don't know.
 
I wouldnt try roll starting it. If you have the timing wrong you could do all sorts of damage.
Keep tinkering until you get it to fire by kicking.
 
DHZ_XR8cing said:
I wouldnt try roll starting it. If you have the timing wrong you could do all sorts of damage.
Keep tinkering until you get it to fire by kicking.
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Damo's advice is golden, if it wont run an your questioning your setting of the timing push starting could be a huge headache and a bent valve and maybe even a damaged valve guide and valve stem seals, not to mention the piston getting a massage i wouldnt bother. With the spark plug out will the engine turn over and if not dont force it. Did you pull the magneto cover off and check the timing mark on there was spot on also?
 
I have a irk which I have marked tdc on when I first got it. Lined that up correct and lined tdc mark on cam sprocket. Turned over motor with no plug to test it before I tried to kick it over
 
Okay cool, just use a torch and straw to quickly check if the piston is at the top of its stroke again, i know you dont have an ork and i also hope the bike does run great for you, but understand these irks are junk, there not a takegawa or kitaco irk and are a china one, it maybe buggered already, i have seen them stop the moment the bike started running for the first time since it was installed and personally i have not seen them last more than a month. Are you running this exact cdi or the same type but black?? NEW DHZ SUPER LIGHT WEIGHT INNER ROTOR KIT, OIL SLING | eBay
 
I got the irk from dragin bikes at Capalaba. It looks like the one on the pic but its got a black Cdi and black coil. I was given a old irk and I used the black Cdi off that too but still had the same problem. I checked that there was an exhaust gasket and exhaust was tight. All good there. I may have to install a standard flywheel and stator to see if its an ignition prob. Thin is I don't have one guess more money to spend
 
The black irk is what comes standard on some yx150-160 motors, there a little more reliable, if you have the same prob with 2 irks using the same cdi on both than the cdi is prob crap like timeeh mentioned, they can make diagnosing a prob extremely hard because they still spark sometimes giving you the impression that its not the rotor or cdi, percevere with it mate cause when its running and ya riding all is good.
 
Thanks I hope so. My next step is to go back to stock ignition and see what happens. I will get the stator off my mates 125cc and see if it fits. If it comes ok ill be stoked in a way. I'll get my self ork. All I'm read and am told is irk can cause my problem and it may be the curve on my Cdi. Anyway people say they are crap and my bike shop don't sell them no more cause they fail quickly and cause too may problems
 
I know it seems like a endless pit of dramas, but if you run the 125 setup and it works then id be looking at this setup(not sure if the dimensions for the backing plate are the same as the yx case). Stator & Magneto, Seals Lifan YX GPX 140cc 150cc 160cc
If you are interested i can get you one of these magneto stator setups cheap in good working condition if you are interested? Requires a stock 5 pin cdi and std kickstart harness, which you may have still.
 
I would be but I Supose I will not need one really for long I just need for testing thanks anyway I might see if any one close by might have one
 
Did you try different needle in the carb? Having the same problem with my lincon 4stroke it wont rev up full, its an ignition problem either cdi or carb and since it idles and revs that means cdi is ok so m going to try dif needle settings or new leaner needles to try sort it, you should try it, patience is needed lol.
 
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