carby issues

[dub_88n]

hey boys, i hav a 26mm OKO carby on the z160HO (no i dont need help tuning it)

today all i did on my bike was set the valves inlet .002 and outlet .003 (as told by Thump*140 R.I.P brother)

so i did all that, went to kick my bike over straight away i notice more compression, and fuel absoloutly SPEWING out of both overflows when fuel is turned on....

i just checked over and cleaned the whole carby, and im gunna redo the valves in the morning....

and yes i will try both (Inlet .002 and outlet .003) and also (inlet .003 and outlet .004)
dont think that will change much to as it was running fine yesterday on .002 and .003


any other ideas would help

Cheers

 

[DHZ_XR8cing]

floats stuck or set wrong

 

[dub_88n]

i never touched the float setting... and i made sure that it wasnt stuck

just to be sure... can anyone point me in the direction for setting your float lvl??

 

[sean01]

did you blow the fuel feed hole out in the carby when you checked the carb out?

have you got a fuel filter fitted to it?

pretty common for sht or plastic bits from the tank to block it or jam it open...

failing that the float level height is 19mm..

and just so you know, the valves when set cold @ 002 and 003 will close a fair bit when the engine is hot..
iv seen them close as much as 1.5- 2 thou which doesn't leave much of a gap

 

[dub_88n]

did you blow the fuel feed hole out in the carby when you checked the carb out?

have you got a fuel filter fitted to it?

pretty common for sht or plastic bits from the tank to block it or jam it open...

failing that the float level height is 19mm..

and just so you know, the valves when set cold @ 002 and 003 will close a fair bit when the engine is hot..
iv seen them close as much as 1.5- 2 thou which doesn't leave much of a gap

nah i didnt blow it out, but i checked to see if it was blocked and it wasnt...

no fuel filter

i know they the valves will close when its hot but i cant even get it going so...

now iv never touched the float lvl and its been working fine for atleast 6-8months...
how do i adjust it if needing adjustment...

any other ideas i should try to get it going??

 

[dadof2]

the float level can be changed by bending the little tab that it swings on
take the bowl off and you will be able to see how its done.

the float level can just get stuck on any little bit or even a hair that makes its way into the bowl

if you dont have a fuel filter get used to youre carb screwing up

 

[dub_88n]

righto looks like im takin my carbie off again!!!

iv never used a fuel filter ever in my 10years of racing bike bikes, (first year on pitties) but yea ill take that advice but iv never used a filter before...

cheeers dadof2

 

[dub_88n]

iv fixed the fuel spewin out the carby problem now... dont know wat that was pulled it apart and put it bak together and it was all fine???

still cant get the bike running, valves are now set at 003inlet and 004outlet....

to add to my confusion the clutch is no long working properly...

e.g when try and put it in 1st with clutch lever squeezed it wont spin freely, so i think its not disengagin properly or sumthin...

 

[sean01]

ok, disregard the clutch issue until you get the bike running. most clutch's wont work after they been sitting for a while and the engine isnt running..

im guessing your engine has a gut full of fuel...

hold the throttle flat and kick the hell out of it.
or remove the spark plug and push it round the yard in top gear for a bit, clean the plug and try to start it again.. also you may as well check for spark while your at it..

 

[dub_88n]

cheers mate, I'm at work atm but I'll do that around 6tonite... cheers for the help

I'll keep you posted on how I go

 

[dub_88n]

ok, disregard the clutch issue until you get the bike running. most clutch's wont work after they been sitting for a while and the engine isnt running..

im guessing your engine has a gut full of fuel...

hold the throttle flat and kick the hell out of it.
or remove the spark plug and push it round the yard in top gear for a bit, clean the plug and try to start it again.. also you may as well check for spark while your at it..

hey guys quick update,

i took out the sparky and straight away there was confirmation of a BUCKET load of fuel the sparky looked pretty much new from it all lol.... so i did wat was advised above (walk around the yard etc etc), kicked it over took a few goes but got it ...

after that i re-did the valves while it was still warm (few burns tho lol) reset them back at .002 and .003, i would like to add that i recon i could of slid in the 5mm gauge aswell!!!! so not sure what happend there as i do the tappets up FT (fu**in tight)... but all works fine now!!!

+reps 2 all who helped me out on this 1

cheers guys

 

[paton]

hey mate hate to tell ya but you will need to re-do those valves tomorrow once the bike is completely cool. You have to do it while the engine is stone cold otherwise you will get a false reading, hence why you thought you could slip a 5mm gauge in there.

 

[dub_88n]

if you do your valves when its cold and set it to what ever... they close up when the bike warms up.... i agree that they will be a false reading when its cold but will get more accurate when it warms up

 

[paton]

I'd get a 3rd opinion on this as i have always been shown/taught when doing valves to do them at 0.003 inlet, 0.004 exhaust, when the motor is dead cold.

As you say you have done them when the bike is warm? how warm? the engines running temperature changes all the time as you ride, depending on how hard you ride, weather ect.

Doing them cold gives an accurate measurement, and set to 0.003 inlet, 0.004 outlet, you wont have a problem. I can bet that when you go to start up your bike tomorrow after resetting them when the bike was warm, it wither wont start or will run like crap.

 

[dub_88n]

I'd get a 3rd opinion on this as i have always been shown/taught when doing valves to do them at 0.003 inlet, 0.004 exhaust, when the motor is dead cold.

As you say you have done them when the bike is warm? how warm? the engines running temperature changes all the time as you ride, depending on how hard you ride, weather ect.

Doing them cold gives an accurate measurement, and set to 0.003 inlet, 0.004 outlet, you wont have a problem. I can bet that when you go to start up your bike tomorrow after resetting them when the bike was warm, it wither wont start or will run like crap.

i was told to do the valves to those specs (.002 and .003) by Tom aka Thump*140 and im completly confident that those specs are correct and im pretty sure sean01 told me .002 and .003... and i let the bike get warm from idle then took it for a 5-10min quickie thru the bush... and yes it would of cooled down a bit while i was doing it...

and i wasnt riding it hard or anything and its pretty cool here its about 10degs

ive even had people tell me .006 and .007!!!!


even if there is a problem later on from the valves not beign accurate enough i can always do it when its stone cold....

 

[fane]

sorry to stray from the original problem of the thread but can i get someone to confirm that its best to set valve clearances with a warmed up engine?

 

[sean01]

either mate, but the settings are different unless you dont mind if they are a tiny bit rattly..

.003 and .004 when cold
.002 and .003 when hot

i set mine 3 & 4 regardless

 

[fane]

oh good - yeh i did 3 and 4 when cold

cheers for that - back on topic