Current update on my bike, Still cant get it to run!

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SwagOnWheels

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Hi everyone, just giving you an update on my bike :) got few new parts, and few new issues with it :S.
When i first started this project i started with the basic bits and pieces and have tried my best to assemble them all and get a running bike going! I got given a bike from a mate that was in bits and bought one that had a stuffed gearbox for $100 and stripped it for parts :) And did what i could to form a complete bike :)
plus i bought few parts of the internet such as 'perfromance' inner rotor kit, Racing CDI, Heavy duty 14" rear wheel, 1/4 turn throttle, Pro Taper SE bars, Pro taper Grips, New plastics and stickers, NGK spark plug and an oi cooler. Thinking of buying a NGK lead + coil soon aswell :)

This is what it looks like at the moment :)

IMG_00691.jpg picture by CaryCorser - Photobucket

But i cant quite get it to start and it is doing my head in! ive got spark, ive tried using 3 different carby's, i've adjusted the valve clearnences to .004" for the inlet, .006" for the exhaust. (researched on few different sites and thats what was reccomended.) cleaned out the carby's.

I've ran out of ideas and dont want to pull the motor apart unless i really have to. Im more than happy for any suggestions! :)
 
rotor kits and racing cdi's are sh!t nowa days... was it running before you put all these on? 14" rear is only really used for big foot bikes that run 17" front wheels... the bike looks odd with 14"s on it... imo..
 
yeah i thought so to but that was the only wheel i had lol. and havent got the money for a new one. And the old stator plate was snapped, Looked like chain had come off and broken it so thats why i bought the inner rotor kit. so nah it didnt run before i put them on.
 
Is the clutch engaging properly? I got a similiar bike for free and it didnt start cos the cluth cable wasnt working cirrectly. Also look at the kill switch might be stuck down or something. Also i know its obvious but fuel tap etc...
 
yeah hasnt got an insane amount of compression but definitely has compression. Is a 125 lifan engine.
And i did the clutch lose as i could and didnt make a difference. and nah has spark so shouldnt be anything to do with the wiring?
And yeah got fuel coming out of the fuel line. but just seems like there isnt fuel going into the combustion chamber? not entirely sure how these work but i assumed when the piston goes down it creates a vacuum which draws in the fuel and air?
 
Get some start ya bastard and spray in the carbie while kicking it.
Well get some one to spray it in the carbie while you kick it. if it runs with that then you know its a fuel problem. If it dont run then you know its electral or timing.
The exhaust valve clearance should be .004.
 
what colour is the spark? does it kick back at all? does it puff back thru the carb when kicking it?

and when you say racing cdi are you just talking about the original one that came with the inner rotor kit... small black or red box?
 
yeah was gonna grab some start ya bastard from work and try.

And spark is a blue. Doesnt really kick back and no doesnt puff back through the carby. not that ive noticed anyway.
And the cdi is one of these ( eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d ) tried wiring it up with the red one that come with it but didnt seem to run so re wired it with this blue one.
 
Mate that IRK will not run with the Race cdi you bought, You should stick with the standard rotor setup for the 125 as the inner rotor kits are so hit and miss and even the red cdi's also(i have also seen devastated clutches and clutch side covers that have flown apart from over rev, weak clutch case material), i have seen these kits run for years and some run for minutes, you may have a spark but its the amps you need, try the standard red cdi that came with the kit and rewire it, they make so many kits you might of even got a dodgy, but the standard outer rotor kit will run with your Race cdi you bought(but they are crap too, same thing can last years or minutes)in my experience the standard cdi with green or white 5-pin connector is your most reliable cdi, Good Luck
 
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ya can get the blue box to work. iv done it several times.. even used a stock cdi box on an irk..

but the irk pickup may be firing just at the wrong time... probly needs advancing if it isnt kicking back...

try adjusting the pickup all the way down..
could even try unscrewing the pickup flip it over and screw it back on in central position... had a few irks that required tht
 

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