DIY Candy Red Paint

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T

twisties

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Hey everyone,

I've had an idea for a while now on how to make candy red in a spray can. So as far as I understand, in the simplest terms possible, candy red is achieved by spraying a metallic silver or gold base coat, and then covering that in a translucent (candy) red paint. The more layers of the translucent red the darker the final product.

I also know how to mix paint from 2 spray cans using a little home made nozzle adapter, heating one can and cooling the other, holding one upside down etc and then pressing the nozzle to transfer the paint between the cans.

So here's my idea:
I bought a can of clear coat and I have 1/4 of a can left of gloss red (both are enamel of the same brand). I am going to transfer about half a can of the clear into what's left of the red can, creating a translucent red paint.

Then I just use a metallic silver base coat and cover that with the mixed translucent red and I have a $15 candy red paint job.

Does anyone have any input on this method? I'm probably going to try it anyway but if anyone has any relevant input into this please let me know :)
 
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twisties said:
Could you give me a bit more info? I see it's anodized red, does that mean it's a bit transparent? I'm interested :)
Click to expand...

Yeah mate its transparent, so if spraying metal like tappet covers just clean the surface and spray over the top and it will give you the anodized metal effect its awesome ****. Or you could lay down a silver or chrome base coat and spray over that. Theres some you tube vids i think. Ive used it myself you just have to make sure theres absolutely no **** floating around or on the surface because it is transparent it will gather in that area and stand out. Ill post up some pics tonight if you want but imo its the best, its made for auto application to.
 
yeah, chunky/coarse metallic silver base coat first, candy colour next, then clear coat to seal/protect.
ive been using the stuff for years
small stuff is easy enough to do, cars can get a bit tricky.
any paint overlaps will show up darker/deeper, so you need to be very consistant.

mixing plain gloss red and clear makes - a mess,
definately needs to be translucent red
 
as My67xr said... mixing clear with gloss red will be a mess , you end up with cloudy pale red.
 
eichkay said:
as My67xr said... mixing clear with gloss red will be a mess , you end up with cloudy pale red.
Click to expand...

Aww shucks :( I was sure I was onto a winner!

Well I'll give the Metalcast a go and hopefully that comes out how I want it.

Thanks for the heads up guys :)
 
supercheap have the metalcast range on sale this week too, $14.99 a can iirc?

remember to try and keep the coats as even as possible,
eg- spray the parts with the same thickness paint all over.
it will probably take 2 - 3 coats to get a deep colour,
make sure your first coat of each paint, is just a fine dust coat, having the first coats go on like this will help avoid fish eyes etc and makes the paint stick well.
then a couple (2-3) wet coats of clear to seal it, protect it and to gloss it all up
try not to leave dry overspray if you can with any of the coats, especially the metallic base coat.

and post lots of pics during the respray too, rubbed back, primed, first coat of metallic, finished metallic, first coat of colour, finished colour, then the clear
and finally a finished pic.
it should be left a week or so before you assemble it too.
if there's some warm days leave it in the sun as much as possible, leave it outside undercover during the night too if you can.
hot/cold will help the thinners evaporate ,and will help the paint cure/harden.
the longer you leave it the tougher the finish will be, a couple of weeks would be nice
but i couldnt imagine having a killer paint job and leaving it for ages before reassembling it.
i always want to see them back together as quick as i can.......

good luck,
craig
 
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my67xr said:
supercheap have the metalcast range on sale this week too, $14.99 a can iirc?

remember to try and keep the coats as even as possible,
eg- spray the parts with the same thickness paint all over.
it will probably take 2 - 3 coats to get a deep colour,
make sure your first coat of each paint, is just a fine dust coat, having the first coats go on like this will help avoid fish eyes etc and makes the paint stick well.
then a couple (2-3) wet coats of clear to seal it, protect it and to gloss it all up
try not to leave dry overspray if you can with any of the coats, especially the metallic base coat.

and post lots of pics during the respray too, rubbed back, primed, first coat of metallic, finished metallic, first coat of colour, finished colour, then the clear
and finally a finished pic.
it should be left a week or so before you assemble it too.
if there's some warm days leave it in the sun as much as possible, leave it outside undercover during the night too if you can.
hot/cold will help the thinners evaporate ,and will help the paint cure/harden.
the longer you leave it the tougher the finish will be, a couple of weeks would be nice
but i couldnt imagine having a killer paint job and leaving it for ages before reassembling it.
i always want to see them back together as quick as i can.......

good luck,
craig
Click to expand...

I agree with the above...

But I preped all my stuff with turps and a clean rag, did a couple of dusty coats first and a 3rd wet one with the primer waiting 3 to 4 mins between, then waited 10 mins and did the same with the colour! waited 30 to 40 minutes and then chucked em back on. only because I'm an inpatient bugger. Idon't advise on this but it can be done on a hot day!

Sorry mate didnt read your post otherwise I would of got a few prep and primer shots,
 
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Well done mate looks pretty trick, and the way you painted it is the exact same way i do because impatient also and i've never had a problem. Pretty funny i just picked up a few cans this arvo because they are on sale.
 
all you need now is the red alloy bash plate...

like this one
IMAG0159.jpg
 
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