Do I need Big Wheel or not for under $1K + What bike to buy?

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For $155 go down to your local store and buy a new RK or DID chain should be between $40-$50 buks trust me you want one, ive seen 3 kmc chains snap on only 125cc engines. Then get a 26mm oko flatside kit from Dhz :) then grips, bars, and suspension
 
big wheels are gay and should be banned from this site

10"/10"-
12"/10"
14"/12"
12"/12"

these are a mini bike spec and anything else is gayer than aids
 
by the sounds of things i have bene lucky with my chains because i sure as hell neglect them as in i rarely pu lube on them and there fine

the reason i said bars grips and levers is because thats what your hanging onto the whole time your riding so i like some comfort for my hands and i HATE stock levers especially thos bi folds there just so yuck ive got the billet mx style oes i think there 60 bucks and just feel so much better and grips well you dont blisters on your hands or otherwise its a shit the next day and the stock bars have a shithouse bend on them where as protaper have a more natural feel to them or another branded bar

like its a 160 its got plenty of punch so an oko car can wait
 
yeh the oko can wait the molkt that comes on it does the job fine for a while.
Stock chain has to go, and fresh oil is needed before u even start the bike
stock bars are soft as cheese and you will bend em, but that can wait until the times comes
levers are fine until they break.
the stock 160 engine is fine no mods needed asap, make sure you set the valve clearance before you start it! mine had none!

I'd go:
chain $40
oil $30
1/4 throttle $30
then the other $40 u'll need for filter oil, a bottle of locktight, grip glue, and all the other little initial set up cost
 
hmmm nah hillz filters are just fancy looking shithouse china filters, no better than stock except for the look of it
 
Thanks to everyone for their input. Please keep it coming.
I have found in all things it's best to ask the peeps using the products for advice, rather than the dodgy salesman who most often has his bottom line well above your best interests when giving product advice.
*pitbikekid- My shed is about to become less cluttered and my budget a little better off thanks to E-bay. Good advice.
So it looks like:
-Atomik Nitrous 160
-Setup as per actung noobs as suggested
-Valve clearances
-Jetting?
-RK or DID chain
-Quality oil
-Uni filter
-1/4 throttle
-RIDE!
Everything else can wait till I bend it, break it, wear it out or want more.
What about the humble spark plug? In the bigger bikes the cheapest boost you can get is to swap the standard plug for a NGK Iridium one. Does this apply here?
Jetting is also usually a cheap gain. Whats the go here with the std carb, any ideas?
Cheers all,
oldhack
 
DvDRip said:
hmmm nah hillz filters are just fancy looking shithouse china filters, no better than stock except for the look of it
Click to expand...

my mate bought some from him and showed me and yer they are way better than stock just under uni quality

its a nice soft foam thats thick but nto like thoshard foam black pieces of shit you get
 
ok with the carby....
smaller pitbikes always come with a rubbish mikuni carby that's near impossible to work on and tune properly and has poor performance.

150's and 160's come with a molkt which is a cheap copy of a high end mikuni carby, this carby is very useable and tuneable and gives good performance on a smaller engine... but 24mm is way underkill for a 150cc plus motor, and the build quality is very poor among other issues.
so the molkt will do the job just fine until you can afford an oko flatslide, if the bike came with the cheapo mikuni carby i'd be telling you to replace it before anything else

the oko flatslide give awsome peformance gains and they're a peice of piss to tune on any motor, reliable as hell... all pitbikes should come with one ;)


PBK the filters are rubbish, only difference is a shiny ring and a red sock... foam is way too dense for the carby to breath properly and to me the foam looks no tougher than the normal china filters
 
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If you're on a tight budget that's strictly dictated and vehemently enforced by a menacing Gestapo officer ...

I'd remove all the parts that you're going to replace (to keep them brand new) and try to sell them off on ebay ... That way there's a chance they'll sell quicker and easier to help re-coup some coin that can be put towards more desirable upgrade parts ...

For instance if the stock rear shock is under par ... remove it , sell it off as new , then buy either a DNM or Fast Ace ... hopefully that'll help to pacify your "boss" ... Convince her that you're actually saving money instead of throwing it down the drain ... You can sell the stock shock , chain , levers , grips , bars and even tyres if they're shonky ...

Why run them only to have to toss them out , when they're worth something to some other poor sod who bought a cheap chinese bike off ebay ... AND who might be actually getting bashed as well as ridiculed and psychologically traumatised by his missus (ie Atomik customer) ...
 
Last edited:
Cactus Jack said:
If you're on a tight budget that's strictly dictated and vehemently enforced by a menacing Gestapo officer ...

I'd remove all the parts that you're going to replace (to keep them brand new) and try to sell them off on ebay ... That way there's a chance they'll sell quicker and easier to help re-coup some coin that can be put towards more desirable upgrade parts ...

For instance if the stock rear shock is under par ... remove it , sell it off as new , then buy either a DNM or Fast Ace ... hopefully that'll help to pacify your "boss" ... Convince her that you're actually saving money instead of throwing it down the drain ... You can sell the stock shock , chain , levers , grips , bars and even tyres if they're shonky ...

Why run them only to have to toss them out , when they're worth something to some other poor sod who bought a cheap chinese bike off ebay ... AND who might be actually getting bashed as well as ridiculed and psychologically traumatised by his missus (ie Atomik customer) ...
Click to expand...

haha so truee
 
In the case of THAT bike ... TDR stands for "Turds Do Reek" ... and if he buys a bike from a seller with the name "Ass-online" he is guaranteed to get bashed , ridiculed and psychologically traumatised by his missus ...
 
:) Hey all,
Just wanted to thank you all again for your input. It is all very valuable info.
Been thinkin that it's prob a good idea to rip off all the bits I intend replacing and flog them off on E-bay to help finance the good stuff. Cheers for all your suggestions.
I look forward to posting again soon as an actual owner rather than a prospective one!
oldhack :cool:
 
Update

oldhack said:
:) Hey all,
Just wanted to thank you all again for your input. It is all very valuable info.
Been thinkin that it's prob a good idea to rip off all the bits I intend replacing and flog them off on E-bay to help finance the good stuff. Cheers for all your suggestions.
I look forward to posting again soon as an actual owner rather than a prospective one!
oldhack :cool:
Click to expand...

Just thought I would add to this post.
I got the Nitrous 160 and have done all the inital setup as per the advice all through this forum.
I swapped the Molkt for an OKO and the bars and grips to Pro taper. I also have an aftermarket CDI which I have not yet fitted.
I have to say at this point I only have about 20 mins run time on the bike :( but it seems to go well.
I am taking it out on a camping trip in a few weeks where it will get a good flogging and I will report back after that.
So far the standard jetting that came with the OKO from DHZ seems pretty close to the mark. I have some spare jets that I will play with if needed after run in.
Thanks again everyone for your input.
oldhack.
 
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